Wouldnt Rev after starting

[Xxyion]

My conclusion is that most cars have this safety feature, however some are having issues where the car wont leave that safety mode.

It makes sense why the dealership wouldnt be able to diagnose this, but i'm curious if this feature can somehow be turned off. Its definitely very disconcerting when all of a sudden out of nowhere the car doesnt rev and theres no CEL or warning on the display. 100% i'd be willing to bet if the car told us something was going on, we wouldnt all be up in a tizzy.

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[Toast]

When Toyota sent me a vehicle satisfaction survey (not the dealer one), I included a link to this thread and told them I had this problem where my car shut off completely when I revved the engine.
Hopefully it at least makes a tabulator somewhere squirm.

 

[CMCSupra]

I experienced this today for the first time and it caught me off guard. Here's the description of my experience: I'm in oregon and it was 45 deg this morning (sunny so a perfect bath day), backed her out of the garage with no issues. My garage is kept about 55-60 degrees this time of year.

Outside it was 40-45. After drying I started her up and let her warm up for 10 min. When I was ready to leave I went to reverse and pushed on the gas to back out but there was zero power. It bogged down and died. I restarted and tried to rev in neutral but it was just bog down and die like a manual. Now I turn the ignition off and sat for a few minutes then tried again. This time I could back out and go into D to go forward but it was only limping. Zero power. I sat at idle for a minute and tried again and it was fine. The car didn't throw a CEL and I have an OBDLink and there were no issues in it's scan. My car is a 2021 3.0 and stock.

Seems like this is an issue occuring more often and in colder weather.

 

[Paolo]

Sadly, Toyota is sweeping this under the carpet hoping the community and media don't talk about it and thus forgotten.

 

[JustaCarguy.]

Sadly, Toyota is sweeping this under the carpet hoping the community and media don't talk about it and thus forgotten.

https://www.motor1.com/news/491183/study-shows-automakers-delaying-recalls/

 

[Nocturnal LE]

Just hit up Toyota Customer Care again, and opened a new case. A senior manager is supposed to give me a call tomorrow to further discuss the issue.

Im happy to go for bat on this one and represent you guys in this thread who are also having the issue. I’ll keep you posted and let you know how the discussion goes.

Any update from Toyota Customer Care?

Also... anyone with a flash tune also experiencing this issue?

 

[zepraa91]

this happened about twice so far. Mine is 2021 a91 edition. 2k miles. Fully warmed up, backed out from a driveway, put the gear in D, gas pushed more than half way down, Car hesitated to go. This only happened twice... hasnt happened ever since then. Now Im at almost 4k miles.

 

[JustaCarguy.]

This might be a stupid question, but is this issue also effecting the 2.0 models? Also, this "engine protection" thing can't just be switched off or coded out?

 

[CMCSupra]

I experienced this today for the first time and it caught me off guard. Here's the description of my experience: I'm in oregon and it was 45 deg this morning (sunny so a perfect bath day), backed her out of the garage with no issues. My garage is kept about 55-60 degrees this time of year.

Outside it was 40-45. After drying I started her up and let her warm up for 10 min. When I was ready to leave I went to reverse and pushed on the gas to back out but there was zero power. It bogged down and died. I restarted and tried to rev in neutral but it was just bog down and die like a manual. Now I turn the ignition off and sat for a few minutes then tried again. This time I could back out and go into D to go forward but it was only limping. Zero power. I sat at idle for a minute and tried again and it was fine. The car didn't throw a CEL and I have an OBDLink and there were no issues in it's scan. My car is a 2021 3.0 and stock.

Seems like this is an issue occuring more often and in colder weather.

this happened about twice so far. Mine is 2021 a91 edition. 2k miles. Fully warmed up, backed out from a driveway, put the gear in D, gas pushed more than half way down, Car hesitated to go. This only happened twice... hasnt happened ever since then. Now Im at almost 4k miles.

What's weird is normally I only warm the car until the rpms drop below 1k, then I go. Have never had an issue.

The time it happened to me, I washed it then, started it with the door open (has been mentioned in this thread), got out and shut the door and let it warm/idle for 15-20 minutes while I changed. Obviously it got warm far before 15 minutes but I wonder if the long idle and heat has something to do with it. I normally never let it set at idle that long.

 

[KellyJoe]

What's weird is normally I only warm the car until the rpms drop below 1k, then I go. Have never had an issue.

The time it happened to me, I washed it then, started it with the door open (has been mentioned in this thread), got out and shut the door and let it warm/idle for 15-20 minutes while I changed. Obviously it got warm far before 15 minutes but I wonder if the long idle and heat has something to do with it. I normally never let it set at idle that long.

Happened twice to me... Both after sitting a few minutes and then trying to start and rev. Both times for enthusiasts that wanted to hear it... Didn't think twice at the time but pulled off and within a few feet slipped it up into neutral and all was well.... IMO and in my situations, heat-soak was the factor.... Hasn't happened since because I don't try to rev after gassing up or sitting in the garage for a few minutes.... Gone are the days of mechanical linkages from the gas pedal to the throttle body...

 

[CMCSupra]

Happened twice to me... Both after sitting a few minutes and then trying to start and rev. Both times for enthusiasts that wanted to hear it... Didn't think twice at the time but pulled off and within a few feet slipped it up into neutral and all was well.... IMO and in my situations, heat-soak was the factor.... Hasn't happened since because I don't try to rev after gassing up or sitting in the garage for a few minutes.... Gone are the days of mechanical linkages from the gas pedal to the throttle body...

I as well. I never rev it on a cold start or before it's up to opperating temp.

 

[BoostedMKV]

I have a 21' with 1000 miles and I had this issue a few weeks ago where the car didn't want to rev, then when I put it in drive, it felt like it wanted to die. I drove a little bit and got a CEL. Checked it with MX+ and got a p0606 code. PCM failing its own self check. After about 3-4 restarts and driving for a little bit, the CEL went away. All has been normal since then.

 

[Ryno8000]

Hey guys,

I have read 30 pages of this thread, took some tome to go over, my car did the same rev issue only once but I have listed other issue below, let me know if you have any advise.

Toyota Supra NOV 2019 A90 GTS

Please HELP, can’t get any truth from Toyota and crap support for the Supra, they tell me they have only sold 2 and it’s not coming up with errors but since I purchased the car it sounded great, nice exhaust noise, classic Supra burble and pops, even when driving very slow.

toyota updated ecu and ever since the car has gotten more and more quiet almost to the point today it sounded like it was in standard mode. All Toyota could explain that The ECU was adaptive and has learnt to be more tame and sound has tuned out threw learning, which I thinks crap.
Also the GTR roar start up has now gone since update. They tried to update the car because we thought it came with apple car play it took 2 visits before they told us it dosent have apple car play in australia.

it’s been about 8 weeks and I can’t get anywhere with the car only thing I though was to get the BM3 boot mod and try change settings but I want to make sure there’s nothing wrong with the car first as I know this will most likely void warranty.

I have 2 things thats funny with the car
1 vid I have is cold start and car would not rev, throttle response was all retarded (sorry for the term) and then spat out a rev then stalled.
A few starts the car sounded real sick and then stalled about 4 times in 3 or 4 weeks
I have another vid of the left passenger side with a ticking noise, sounds like heat expansion noise when you turn a car off but this is when it’s on then you hear it also when you turn off.
Car was purchased as a demo with 3ks on the clock and was driven by the manager mostly.

I have watched hundreds of YouTube vids and can’t keep looking, I was hoping for an Aussie support as I know the exhaust systems are slightly different to the US and EU.

Any help would be awesome, I really appreciate it. I’ll try and work out how to post vids, sorry the throttling one is hard to hear because of the radio, but you can hear my foot hitting the padal.

thanks

 

[Paolo]

Hey guys,

I have read 30 pages of this thread, took some tome to go over, my car did the same rev issue only once but I have listed other issue below, let me know if you have any advise.

Toyota Supra NOV 2019 A90 GTS

Please HELP, can’t get any truth from Toyota and crap support for the Supra, they tell me they have only sold 2 and it’s not coming up with errors but since I purchased the car it sounded great, nice exhaust noise, classic Supra burble and pops, even when driving very slow.

toyota updated ecu and ever since the car has gotten more and more quiet almost to the point today it sounded like it was in standard mode. All Toyota could explain that The ECU was adaptive and has learnt to be more tame and sound has tuned out threw learning, which I thinks crap.
Also the GTR roar start up has now gone since update. They tried to update the car because we thought it came with apple car play it took 2 visits before they told us it dosent have apple car play in australia.

it’s been about 8 weeks and I can’t get anywhere with the car only thing I though was to get the BM3 boot mod and try change settings but I want to make sure there’s nothing wrong with the car first as I know this will most likely void warranty.

I have 2 things thats funny with the car
1 vid I have is cold start and car would not rev, throttle response was all retarded (sorry for the term) and then spat out a rev then stalled.
A few starts the car sounded real sick and then stalled about 4 times in 3 or 4 weeks
I have another vid of the left passenger side with a ticking noise, sounds like heat expansion noise when you turn a car off but this is when it’s on then you hear it also when you turn off.
Car was purchased as a demo with 3ks on the clock and was driven by the manager mostly.

I have watched hundreds of YouTube vids and can’t keep looking, I was hoping for an Aussie support as I know the exhaust systems are slightly different to the US and EU.

Any help would be awesome, I really appreciate it. I’ll try and work out how to post vids, sorry the throttling one is hard to hear because of the radio, but you can hear my foot hitting the padal.

thanks

1. Did the engine rev issue occur before the ecu was updated?

2. Curious as to why your ecu was updated. Did you go for service and they updated it or was it Apple car play related?

3. Can you request no ecu update at service or downgrade?

Tia.
As to your issues, try disconnecting battery for 5 min and reconnect. Hopefully that resets any gremlins you may have.. Best of luck.

 

[Paolo]

I experienced this today for the first time and it caught me off guard. Here's the description of my experience: I'm in oregon and it was 45 deg this morning (sunny so a perfect bath day), backed her out of the garage with no issues. My garage is kept about 55-60 degrees this time of year.

Outside it was 40-45. After drying I started her up and let her warm up for 10 min. When I was ready to leave I went to reverse and pushed on the gas to back out but there was zero power. It bogged down and died. I restarted and tried to rev in neutral but it was just bog down and die like a manual. Now I turn the ignition off and sat for a few minutes then tried again. This time I could back out and go into D to go forward but it was only limping. Zero power. I sat at idle for a minute and tried again and it was fine. The car didn't throw a CEL and I have an OBDLink and there were no issues in it's scan. My car is a 2021 3.0 and stock.

Seems like this is an issue occuring more often and in colder weather.

Has anyone looked at the valve solenoid issue on B58? (VANOS) see below :

This is from BMW tuning on B58 engine issues.

B58 VANOS Solenoids
VANOS is BMW’s terminology for VVT, or variable valve timing. Ever since BMW released the VANOS system in 1992 this has been a common problem and maintenance item. Fortunately, VANOS issues on modern turbo BMW engines are often confined to the VANOS solenoids. Solenoids are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. However, the is one catch on the B58.

The B58 timing chain was moved to the rear of the engine. Guess where the VANOS components reside? Right by the timing chain…at the back of the engine. So, we’ve got a bit of a headache here. Although, let’s put a rumor to death quickly. Replacing B58 VANOS components does NOT require lifting the engine. This is a misconception. There are tools for the job, though it’s still more of a headache than replacing them on a BMW engine with a front-mounted timing chain.

We’ve already seen some VANOS problems with the B58 engine. They are currently far and few between. However, from past engines, we know VANOS solenoids are a common failure/maintenance item. Be on the look-out for more of these issues to pop up in the coming years.

Symptoms of B58 VANOS Solenoid Failure

• Power loss/limp mode
• Engine hesitation and bogging, especially at lower RPM’s
• Rough idle
• VANOS fault codes
• Poor fuel efficiency

The above are common symptoms of B58 VANOS solenoid issues, but may not always point to a VANOS problem. Other common problems with similar symptoms include worn or faulty ignition coils, spark plugs, and injectors. However, fault codes will help point you in the right direction. VANOS solenoids may be considered a normal wear and tear item. Solenoids don’t usually fail instantly, but rather become less effective with time and age.

B58 VANOS Solenoid Replacement
The B58 uses two solenoids. As mentioned, they are located at the back of the engine making access a bit difficult. Although, VANOS work can be done without lifting the engine. Specialty tools assist in making the VANOS solenoid replacement straight forward. Expect B58 solenoid issues to arise around the 80,000-100,000 mile mark. However, you may make it well past without issues. Two of our N54’s are nearing 120,000 miles on original VANOS components.

Valve actuator
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-actuator-11367614288

BMW revamped the VANOS system on the B36/B38, B46/B48, and B58 engines by replacing solenoid valves with a VANOS actuator. This actuator is responsible for physically moving the VANOS central valve in the camshaft. This system is relatively straight forward compared to previous VANOS systems.

Part #7 valve actuator

Special pin wrench tool
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/pin-wrench/83302360895~oeb/

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