Wouldnt Rev after starting

Paolo

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Hey guys,

I have read 30 pages of this thread, took some tome to go over, my car did the same rev issue only once but I have listed other issue below, let me know if you have any advise.

Toyota Supra NOV 2019 A90 GTS

Please HELP, can’t get any truth from Toyota and crap support for the Supra, they tell me they have only sold 2 and it’s not coming up with errors but since I purchased the car it sounded great, nice exhaust noise, classic Supra burble and pops, even when driving very slow.

toyota updated ecu and ever since the car has gotten more and more quiet almost to the point today it sounded like it was in standard mode. All Toyota could explain that The ECU was adaptive and has learnt to be more tame and sound has tuned out threw learning, which I thinks crap.
Also the GTR roar start up has now gone since update. They tried to update the car because we thought it came with apple car play it took 2 visits before they told us it dosent have apple car play in australia.

it’s been about 8 weeks and I can’t get anywhere with the car only thing I though was to get the BM3 boot mod and try change settings but I want to make sure there’s nothing wrong with the car first as I know this will most likely void warranty.

I have 2 things thats funny with the car
1 vid I have is cold start and car would not rev, throttle response was all retarded (sorry for the term) and then spat out a rev then stalled.
A few starts the car sounded real sick and then stalled about 4 times in 3 or 4 weeks
I have another vid of the left passenger side with a ticking noise, sounds like heat expansion noise when you turn a car off but this is when it’s on then you hear it also when you turn off.
Car was purchased as a demo with 3ks on the clock and was driven by the manager mostly.

I have watched hundreds of YouTube vids and can’t keep looking, I was hoping for an Aussie support as I know the exhaust systems are slightly different to the US and EU.

Any help would be awesome, I really appreciate it. I’ll try and work out how to post vids, sorry the throttling one is hard to hear because of the radio, but you can hear my foot hitting the padal.

thanks
1. Did the engine rev issue occur before the ecu was updated?

2. Curious as to why your ecu was updated. Did you go for service and they updated it or was it Apple car play related?

3. Can you request no ecu update at service or downgrade?

Tia.
As to your issues, try disconnecting battery for 5 min and reconnect. Hopefully that resets any gremlins you may have.. Best of luck.
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Paolo

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I experienced this today for the first time and it caught me off guard. Here's the description of my experience: I'm in oregon and it was 45 deg this morning (sunny so a perfect bath day), backed her out of the garage with no issues. My garage is kept about 55-60 degrees this time of year.

Outside it was 40-45. After drying I started her up and let her warm up for 10 min. When I was ready to leave I went to reverse and pushed on the gas to back out but there was zero power. It bogged down and died. I restarted and tried to rev in neutral but it was just bog down and die like a manual. Now I turn the ignition off and sat for a few minutes then tried again. This time I could back out and go into D to go forward but it was only limping. Zero power. I sat at idle for a minute and tried again and it was fine. The car didn't throw a CEL and I have an OBDLink and there were no issues in it's scan. My car is a 2021 3.0 and stock.

Seems like this is an issue occuring more often and in colder weather.
Has anyone looked at the valve solenoid issue on B58? (VANOS) see below :

This is from BMW tuning on B58 engine issues.

B58 VANOS Solenoids
VANOS is BMW’s terminology for VVT, or variable valve timing. Ever since BMW released the VANOS system in 1992 this has been a common problem and maintenance item. Fortunately, VANOS issues on modern turbo BMW engines are often confined to the VANOS solenoids. Solenoids are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. However, the is one catch on the B58.

The B58 timing chain was moved to the rear of the engine. Guess where the VANOS components reside? Right by the timing chain…at the back of the engine. So, we’ve got a bit of a headache here. Although, let’s put a rumor to death quickly. Replacing B58 VANOS components does NOT require lifting the engine. This is a misconception. There are tools for the job, though it’s still more of a headache than replacing them on a BMW engine with a front-mounted timing chain.

We’ve already seen some VANOS problems with the B58 engine. They are currently far and few between. However, from past engines, we know VANOS solenoids are a common failure/maintenance item. Be on the look-out for more of these issues to pop up in the coming years.

Symptoms of B58 VANOS Solenoid Failure
  • Power loss/limp mode
  • Engine hesitation and bogging, especially at lower RPM’s
  • Rough idle
  • VANOS fault codes
  • Poor fuel efficiency
The above are common symptoms of B58 VANOS solenoid issues, but may not always point to a VANOS problem. Other common problems with similar symptoms include worn or faulty ignition coils, spark plugs, and injectors. However, fault codes will help point you in the right direction. VANOS solenoids may be considered a normal wear and tear item. Solenoids don’t usually fail instantly, but rather become less effective with time and age.

B58 VANOS Solenoid Replacement
The B58 uses two solenoids. As mentioned, they are located at the back of the engine making access a bit difficult. Although, VANOS work can be done without lifting the engine. Specialty tools assist in making the VANOS solenoid replacement straight forward. Expect B58 solenoid issues to arise around the 80,000-100,000 mile mark. However, you may make it well past without issues. Two of our N54’s are nearing 120,000 miles on original VANOS components.
Valve actuator
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-actuator-11367614288

BMW revamped the VANOS system on the B36/B38, B46/B48, and B58 engines by replacing solenoid valves with a VANOS actuator. This actuator is responsible for physically moving the VANOS central valve in the camshaft. This system is relatively straight forward compared to previous VANOS systems.

Part #7 valve actuator
04iVNMdFKkxA1kOPjANpM-lJMg0zvacTF_Rf46FgkPGZg&s=10.jpg


Special pin wrench tool
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/pin-wrench/83302360895~oeb/
 
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JayNine

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So there's no fix to this? I tried to rev my A90 after 5-10 minutes of idling (and I drove it a bit before that so it should've been fairly warm already). I don't get any power loss when driving or it dying, but I can full throttle the gas and it will barely creep up. It's struggling to get to 3K rpms. This car is pretty cool and I'd be pretty sad to see it go if I had to turn it back in.
 

Foxhound

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So there's no fix to this? I tried to rev my A90 after 5-10 minutes of idling (and I drove it a bit before that so it should've been fairly warm already). I don't get any power loss when driving or it dying, but I can full throttle the gas and it will barely creep up. It's struggling to get to 3K rpms. This car is pretty cool and I'd be pretty sad to see it go if I had to turn it back in.
dude, call Toyota right now and open a case. Nothing is going to happen unless you do so.

when I mentioned this thread to my Toyota Corporate Customer Rep Manager, and all of the other people who are dealing with this same issue...to paraphrase her: “I could care less about what is happening to other people on an Internet forum.We handle everything on a case by case basis.”
 

JayNine

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dude, call Toyota right now and open a case. Nothing is going to happen unless you do so.

when I mentioned this thread to my Toyota Corporate Customer Rep Manager, and all of the other people who are dealing with this same issue...to paraphrase her: “I could care less about what is happening to other people on an Internet forum.We handle everything on a case by case basis.”
So I took it for a drive and let it warm up. I pulled over into a parking lot, through it into park and it actually revved like normal. So maybe my engine was cold because I was just chilling for 10-20 minutes on top of a parking garage (drove 15 minutes to get there) taking some pics then I realized I've never actually revved the car. I think its definitely a safety to keep people from revving the car right upon start up.
 

H2O_Doc

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So I took it for a drive and let it warm up. I pulled over into a parking lot, through it into park and it actually revved like normal. So maybe my engine was cold because I was just chilling for 10-20 minutes on top of a parking garage (drove 15 minutes to get there) taking some pics then I realized I've never actually revved the car. I think its definitely a safety to keep people from revving the car right upon start up.
This mirrors my experience.
 

Nocturnal LE

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So I took it for a drive and let it warm up. I pulled over into a parking lot, through it into park and it actually revved like normal. So maybe my engine was cold because I was just chilling for 10-20 minutes on top of a parking garage (drove 15 minutes to get there) taking some pics then I realized I've never actually revved the car. I think its definitely a safety to keep people from revving the car right upon start up.
ehh I don't know man, that's never happened to me with my 2020 supra. It will rev whenever I want it to no matter what the temperature
 

digicidal

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ehh I don't know man, that's never happened to me with my 2020 supra. It will rev whenever I want it to no matter what the temperature
Same here... maybe we've got the "broken" ones? If so I'm happy (despite never cold-revving outside of testing to see if affected by this). Even after sitting all night outside at freezing temps - it happily pops right up to 3-4K with a light blip on the throttle. Between this and the oil consumption many MY21 owners have reported... I'm feeling far less slighted about missing out on the 6 port head and extra HP. ;)
 

Nocturnal LE

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Same here... maybe we've got the "broken" ones? If so I'm happy (despite never cold-revving outside of testing to see if affected by this). Even after sitting all night outside at freezing temps - it happily pops right up to 3-4K with a light blip on the throttle. Between this and the oil consumption many MY21 owners have reported... I'm feeling far less slighted about missing out on the 6 port head and extra HP. ;)
Right. I always let the car warm up, but if I feel like giving her a few revs I don't want my hand slapped!

I still don't think this is normal for those that are experiencing this issue, especially when it has been idling for a few minutes after a cold start.
 

Foxhound

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Right. I always let the car warm up, but if I feel like giving her a few revs I don't want my hand slapped!

I still don't think this is normal for those that are experiencing this issue, especially when it has been idling for a few minutes after a cold start.
Happens to me irrespective of engine temp or outside temp. Ironically it happens mostly after a warm engine start up
 

Raidernation

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So I took it for a drive and let it warm up. I pulled over into a parking lot, through it into park and it actually revved like normal. So maybe my engine was cold because I was just chilling for 10-20 minutes on top of a parking garage (drove 15 minutes to get there) taking some pics then I realized I've never actually revved the car. I think its definitely a safety to keep people from revving the car right upon start up.
Mine doesn't do that. I can rev it the second I start mine from a cold start.
 
 




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