Rocks between rotor and shield - How to make it stop?

[Evolution]

Has anyone come up with a solution to keep the rocks out of the front brakes? I swear, every time I do auto-x, I get a rock stuck in them and most of the time its a nightmare to get out. Sometimes they pop out by just backing up but sometimes I have to get a bit crazy with the car to get them out. I was thinking of getting a brake duct kit since they hug the rotors better but unfortunately, they do not fit with 315s... Anyone do anything custom to help keep those rocks out?

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[razorlab]

Take the shields off

 

[Evolution]

Take the shields off

That sounds way too logical.... Cons to doing that? I have never had this issue on any of my other cars so never pulled them off.

 

[razorlab]

That sounds way too logical.... Cons to doing that? I have never had this issue on any of my other cars so never pulled them off.

Rotors will be cooler? I guess a con could be more heat on other items but I took them off my other car (my Evo 10 which you knew) which was heavier and much harder on brakes and it didn't melt the plastic zip tie I used to tie the brake sensor to the hub so ?

I haven't taken mine off on the supra yet but more because I am lazy.

 

[Evolution]

Rotors will be cooler? I guess a con could be more heat on other items but I took them off my other car (my Evo 10 which you knew) which was heavier and much harder on brakes and it didn't melt the plastic zip tie I used to tie the brake sensor to the hub so ?

I haven't taken mine off on the supra yet but more because I am lazy.

I know you are a big track guy so its a little bit different but I am more concern about peppering the inside of the rotor with rocks. Heat really isnt an issue during auto-x as you know.

 

[nibble]

as I understand, this is a problem inherited as BMW cars. I do not know how not to be in the situation but if you do, cool the rotor down and go backward. It worked for many DE students.

 

[Deighvid]

I'm triggered just reading the title

 

[FLtrackdays]

I know you are a big track guy so its a little bit different but I am more concern about peppering the inside of the rotor with rocks. Heat really isnt an issue during auto-x as you know.

I’ve never kept rotors long enough to care on my other track cars. Maybe the Supra will be different? But I usually buy basic coated Centric rotors and replace them when replacing with a really good race pads. From what I’ve read from you guys - I’ll probably be able to keep em longer. Regardless, a few pebbles bouncing off that side of the rotor won’t affect the transfer film or the performance of the rotor at all. So, taking the shields off sounds like a great solution ?

 

[Evolution]

I'm triggered just reading the title

You think the title triggers you, wait until you hear the wonderful noises that the rock in the rotor makes.

I’ve never kept rotors long enough to care on my other track cars. Maybe the Supra will be different? But I usually buy the cheapest coated Centric rotors I can find and replace them with my pads. From what I’ve read from you guys, sounds like I can keep rotors a bit longer. Regardless, a few rocks on that side of the rotor won’t affect the transfer film. Taking the shields off sounds like a great solution ?

I wouldnt go with cheap rotors for the Supra. The stock ones are honestly pretty good since they have an aluminum center. Not sure if any aftermarket ones are like that or not. When mine are done, I plan on either going to a 2 piece setup or back to OEM ones.

 

[razorlab]

@Evolution I wonder if you could pound the rotor shields flat? The reason the rocks get stuck is because the shields are all wavy.

 

[Sigg]

All the German cars suffer from this. Mercedes GTR, 911, BMW. Also find it super annoying but ultimately they come out. Mostly just super embarrassing squeaking around trying to pretend everything's OK. ??

 

[Evolution]

@Evolution I wonder if you could pound the rotor shields flat? The reason the rocks get stuck is because the shields are all wavy.

That could be possible. Its just the front of the heat shield that needs it since it has like an inch opening. I was also tossing up the idea of welding some mesh to the area that is super open. Seems like most of the smaller rocks pass by no problem but its the marble sized ones that get stuck.

 

[Deighvid]

You think the title triggers you, wait until you hear the wonderful noises that the rock in the rotor makes.

Oh I've heard it. Thus the war vet ptsd trigger. Hahahaha

 

[FLtrackdays]

You think the title triggers you, wait until you hear the wonderful noises that the rock in the rotor makes.

I wouldnt go with cheap rotors for the Supra. The stock ones are honestly pretty good since they have an aluminum center. Not sure if any aftermarket ones are like that or not. When mine are done, I plan on either going to a 2 piece setup or back to OEM ones.

Yeah cheap not the best word…. I edited it ?. OEM rotors would be great for track and shouldn’t be an expensive consumable. A good friend who won the BFGoodrich MX5 Playboy cup multiple times would always just replace ours with the pads because they were so cheap on our Mazdas. Always better to have new rotors with new pads. Other friends with Porsches that used slotted, drilled, painted, or whatever, looked really nice, but they cost a ton more and didn’t provide any better track times. Even worse, if they didn’t replace them more often they would be more prone to cracks with repeated track use.
Bit off topic but thought it might help for anyone looking for the “best” rotors out there. I definitely don’t want any pebble noises and didn’t know this was a thing. Thx for bringing it up!

 

[nibble]

In my opinion, Stock rotor is not cheaper option. Although it is the one of better options. each cost about $250 and is sided, left & right. you cannot swap it otherwise air will concentrate to center rather than dissipate. - negative effect than original design. Cheaper ones such as centric does not have side which means air vents are straight and may not dissipate hot air as stock rotors mounted correctly. - would be better than stock rotors mounted reversed though more expensive centric - I thought I saw at rockauto - is sided as well as about same price as stock rotor. with few more $, I would prefer stock rotor in that case.

Also, I would not use drilled rotor on track on any car. last time used it on s2000, cracked it in single 15 min. session...

I'm testing out zimmermann at the moment. price is about same as stock. brake feels good so far /w hawk HP+.

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