Yea, bleeding after every event is excessive and points to a different issue.
which big brake kit did you go with? front & rear? Interested about the brake heating up using DTC. Full disclosure A) I don't have my Supra yet (coming soon and will have some initial mods) - current car is a track focused BMW 228i w/MCS suspension etc. B) I only have 1.5 car track seasons under my belt. In my 228 the car applies brakes in the amount and to the wheel the DSC determines. The brakes always heat to smoking with this on, so I turn off the DSC and the DTC. How is the Supra set up electronically? Might be a complicated reply so feel free to give me the Cliff Notes. Thanks!So now that you brought up brake pad combo split. I will share my final conclusions on what is best after toasting many break pads and rotors and break dust seals etc. even then going to a big break kit, primarily dealing with heat. I have verus brake ducts on the front and a vented fender as well. So everyone says to do what you advised dtc 60/ dtc 50 /30 etc on the rear. Which I have tired both. The break bias on these cars/ wight balance is almost 50/50. Bias cannot be adjusted unless you were to get rid of ABS and go to a full race ABS system. So it is really closer to something like 54% front and 46% rear. Some one smarter than me can look it up but I can tell you I am close from my burnt up padsFront brakes get to hot, once you get to TT levels of times. I got in the 1400 degree range which is on the edge of pads as well. So first went to DTC 70 front and 60 rear. and that evened out the heat load between front and rear. I also went to dtc 60 front and dtc 70 rear which I believe is the best balance for heat and stopping. So I am sure there will be lots of opinions on this, but I can just share what I have tried. At a min - use same compounds front and rear and I think it will work better.
are you rubbing now with the 315 and wheel set up?Heres some reference for the Apex 18x11+40 square on 315 RT660s. No spacers but after using them for a weekend, I recommend at least a 3mm spacer, as others have said, when using these wheels with tires bigger than 295. Heres a comparison to 265/35 rt615k+.
and pit bike! very important item to haul - who wants to walk everywhere?A few more pics if trailer. I over achieved. Has solar and 110 inverter. With one battery. Runs my brake fans. Coffee pot chargers etc fir the day. (lol)
Agree, every event would be excessive. But I’ve definitely seen it done… I waited too long (seemed like it was only 3 weekends) and got mushy. Maybe it was something else? Definitely impressed y‘all are able to run 6 events (weekends - 12 track days) without bleeding! Some people even more it sounds like….
I can only speak on turning all the electronics off, except ABS. I personally love having full control! Some people don‘t. So try both when you get the car. You’ll know for sure when you do. If you’re already comfortable with the nannies off, you‘ll be fine. There’s a big fat safety button you can mash for 3 seconds and turn everything off. I have to hit it again in the middle (one notch up) after doing that, to keep everything off. So my car has a quirk or I’m doing it wrong. Probably the latter ? Since you’re coming from a recent BMW, you should feel at home in this car.
So I would not recommend going the Big Brake kit unless you know about the replacement rotor availability/ cost and are really needing to replace stock Calipers etc.
Great point of sticking to a basic vented rotors. I was told the slotted and drilled look nice but you’d be replacing them more often (connect the cracks) and not worth the added cost/headache. Sounds like not much has changed since I heard that advice long ago. The fact you are driving so much and competing is a whole other issueWell big brake kit for most is not needed or worth the big $ in terms of benefits. I tried Neo Motorsport as they were on the NASA member benefits list last year - now they are not. Complete waste of money and time. The front rotor cracked(j grove) they came with after about 2 sets of pads. cold not find replacement ring, except from them. Rear has held up better, as they do not get as hot/ not doing as much work as we discussed. They were big bucks and sent replacement slotted and drilled. Cracked in 2 Days. So put stock back for now and just put a stock, Flat rotor with DTC 60 . I sure the CSG pads are good but just too pricey for me as I go through a lot of stuff. So I ran for over a year on stock and they worked work well. Even with the Big Brakes stopping was a little better but not a big difference. So still trying to sort out heat management more than just stopping. Getting to faster tire can handle more Brake so it all goes together. Faster tires also can turn in faster so can Brake less
? If @Matter is going to go that route and can afford it, sounds like it’d be good to do (from your experience)! It’d also be nice to have access to a wider variety of Hawk DTC pads. Such as the 70 & 60s.
Not a combo I would recommend
So weird I've never experienced traction being turned all the way back on but have heard from everyone else that it happens. Maybe I drive shit enough to heat the tires faster ?
Glad to hear someone else is running those pads. I'm curious though, how do they feel to you? I was expecting them to be somewhat grabby but they feel very "soft" I guess is the right term. Stopping power is great and I've had the same experience as you in terms of road manners, but I just feel like they don't bite as hard as I expected? I bed them in properly and had them on track twice now ?
