What did you do to your Supra today?

[GhostSZN]

basking in the post-show depression after Riverside Chattanooga

 

[razorlab]

Ok so it makes a difference then. Haha. I was flat out there every lap with some confidence to spare. Honestly had zero pucker moments. With your driving, I could see a 1.55 possible! Download that pic and post it!

Edit - forgot to mention I melted my weights and center caps off.... no brake fade though.

Hofmann power weights Type 380

I have yet to lose a weight from track use after years of other brands melting/flying off.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

Check the chargepipe, esp the coupler.

Found this, I’m hoping it’s responsible because if not, I’m out of ideas. I didn’t even tighten the clamp *that* hard, but it definitely deformed the charge pipe. I have a P2uned replacement on the way from Jesse at 1FS, he said he’s seen this before with the FTP and the P2uned should be stronger.

 

[FuzzyRev]

Edit - forgot to mention I melted my weights and center caps off.... no brake fade though.

Most road race and other GT cars have heat-reflective tape covering the strip(s) of wheel weights for this exact reason. The heat from the brake softens the adhesive and away they go!

 

[zrk]

Found this, I’m hoping it’s responsible because if not, I’m out of ideas. I didn’t even tighten the clamp *that* hard, but it definitely deformed the charge pipe. I have a P2uned replacement on the way from Jesse at 1FS, he said he’s seen this before with the FTP and the P2uned should be stronger.

oh damn. that's probably it.

 

[Evolution]

Hofmann power weights Type 380

I have yet to lose a weight from track use after years of other brands melting/flying off.

I will have to give those a try!

Most road race and other GT cars have heat-reflective tape covering the strip(s) of wheel weights for this exact reason. The heat from the brake softens the adhesive and away they go!

Wouldnt be a bad idea to use with what Bryan mentioned too.

The real question is - how do I stop the center caps from melting off? Haha. Going to guess I should just pop them out before the event. They didnt fly off on the track, rather in the lot after I was letting the car cool down.

 

[PikkaGTR]

Found this, I’m hoping it’s responsible because if not, I’m out of ideas. I didn’t even tighten the clamp *that* hard, but it definitely deformed the charge pipe. I have a P2uned replacement on the way from Jesse at 1FS, he said he’s seen this before with the FTP and the P2uned should be stronger.

Holy crap
Gotta cut back on them roids man
Too much gains ?

 

[kaj]

Ok so it makes a difference then. Haha. I was flat out there every lap with some confidence to spare. Honestly had zero pucker moments. With your driving, I could see a 1.55 possible! Download that pic and post it!

Edit - forgot to mention I melted my weights and center caps off.... no brake fade though.

If you were easily going 100% through that section, then aero definitely helped. I do wish I had gotten that section right just once LOL. Man.. I coulda dropped at least half a second there LOL. Next year, though..... I'll be going for PBs and not needing to conform to class rules. Jackie and I will be talking coilovers and aero.
For wheel weights, I have heat-reflective tape over mine. No issues so far. As for center caps, sanctioning bodies and tech sheets for any HPDE/time attack/etc that I've run require center caps to be removed. They typically fly off and can become a hazard so aren't allowed. I'd definitely leave them off for track days!
I almost forgot to say that it was nice to finally meet you!
As for pictures, I have 54 of them ... I'll post a couple of my faves:

 

[razorlab]

Found this, I’m hoping it’s responsible because if not, I’m out of ideas. I didn’t even tighten the clamp *that* hard, but it definitely deformed the charge pipe. I have a P2uned replacement on the way from Jesse at 1FS, he said he’s seen this before with the FTP and the P2uned should be stronger.

This is what can happen when you use t-bolts and torque them down, they don't torque evenly. If you use high quality worm clamps you won't have this issue. I highly recommend ABA clamps. I've used them on 40+ psi cars with zero issues.

The internet says worm clamps suck. When in reality, the internet is using the incorrect worm clamps.

 

[MKVDevo]

This is what can happen when you use t-bolts and torque them down, they don't torque evenly. If you use high quality worm clamps you won't have this issue. I highly recommend ABA clamps. I've used them on 40+ psi cars with zero issues.

The internet says worm clamps suck. When in reality, the internet is using the incorrect worm clamps.

Agreed. I used T bolts on my last several builds, but going forward I am sure I would be using constant tension worm gear clamps. Just cant be the ones with those slots that kill couplers.

 

[Sereph102889]

So I washed my car saturday before last as I was planning to drive to an event but the event got canceled so I parked the car in the garage shortly after drying it. The car sat for exactly seven days in my garage and during those seven days I didn't drive it, it's not a daily. Anyways, I went to get into my car the next saturday and the car literally wouldn't budge forward. I made sure the parking brake was off and that the car was in drive, it was and it was. I eventually realized my front brakes were seized up due to rust having formed from washing the car and having not driven it for a full week, odd that it was this severe, but ok. I had to give the car so much gas that the car was actually doing a small burnout in my garage and ended up pushing the front wheels across the garage floor for several feet before the brakes finally broke free.

I've had the brakes on the Supra get slight stuck before after a wash and being parked for a few days but never to this degree. Has anyone else experienced anything close to what I'm describing? You can see the markings on the garage floor in the picture I posted.

 

[Rocksandblues]

First tire set gone for the season

 

[FuzzyRev]

So I washed my car saturday before last as I was planning to drive to an event but the event got canceled so I parked the car in the garage shortly after drying it. The car sat for exactly seven days in my garage and during those seven days I didn't drive it, it's not a daily. Anyways, I went to get into my car the next saturday and the car literally wouldn't budge forward. I made sure the parking brake was off and that the car was in drive, it was and it was. I eventually realized my front brakes were seized up due to rust having formed from washing the car and having not driven it for a full week, odd that it was this severe, but ok. I had to give the car so much gas that the car was actually doing a small burnout in my garage and ended up pushing the front wheels across the garage floor for several feet before the brakes finally broke free.

I've had the brakes on the Supra get slight stuck before after a wash and being parked for a few days but never to this degree. Has anyone else experienced anything close to what I'm describing? You can see the markings on the garage floor in the picture I posted.

Definitely seen this happen before. Just gotta drive it after a wash and let the pads scrape the rotors clean, as whatever is in the wash solution tends to rust-film the rotors 10x faster than plain water alone. Same reason the first stop after leaving an automatic wash is all grabby and weird on most vehicles.

 

[carmigo]

First tire set gone for the season

I was about to ask what in gods name happened to these tires, but then saw your youtube link lol.

 

[GoldenEye]

I wouldn’t drive these for a million bucks!