Rogue Engineering G8X M2/M3/M4 Short Travel Clutch Arm

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Does the pedal still need to go all the way in maxing out at the firewall like when going in reverse for example, or has that travel also been shortened?

That doesn't sound right or normal. I know I don't have to press it nearly that far in anyhow, as a data point.

If they've changed the leverage on it i.e. the attachment points for that pin that pushes the master cylinder, it might be that the actual pedal travel that would mark the beginning and end points of engagement (slip at the extremes) can be reduced. If they're really clever there's a chance it's moved higher or lower. Certainly they can change the overall length and bends to move where your foot contacts it. There's only so much though that can be done.

Back to the topic, you have to hit the firewall almost to get into reverse? It does take extra effort, but there's a chance you actually have some other thing going on if it's more than just that. The lockout's messed up or something.

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[Strat-Supra]

Does the stock pedal cover come off and fit on the the Rogue? Would prefer it if my pedals matched. Thanks for being the guinea pig!

Didn't know there was a cover on the OEM, never looked. Will take a look when I get a chance.

 

[Strat-Supra]

The cover does fit the new pedal. However, the cover adds ~1/4' to the height which makes it look slightly higher than the brake pedal. I've not had an issues slipping off the pedal or anything like that.

Done a good amount of driving with the car this week, couldn't be anymore pleased with the pedal.

 

[Eastwood]

The cover does fit the new pedal. However, the cover adds ~1/4' to the height which makes it look slightly higher than the brake pedal. I've not had an issues slipping off the pedal or anything like that.

Done a good amount of driving with the car this week, couldn't be anymore pleased with the pedal.

How's the clutch pedal and driving? Thinking of picking one up with the clutch pedal hardware upgrade kit.

 

[Strat-Supra]

Couldn't be happier, absolutely worth it for me, be hard to go back to stock.

Rogue actually just sent me their new clutch stop that works with this pedal and stock. Installed it the other day, haven't driven much since then. The pedal has a nice solid stop just above the carpeted mat now vs feeling lost in the mat.

 

[tracer bullet]

Copying and pasting a post I made also on the Z4 forums elsewhere. But I am guessing all of my thoughts would transfer to a Supra as well, so hopefully at lest 1 person on the fence can find this useful:

Finally got the Rogue clutch pedal installed this morning. Have to admit I brought it to a friend’s and they did the vast majority of the work. I’d started it a while back but get motion sick easily, and all the trips under the dash, inverting myself, through cheater glasses I rarely wear, set it off. I put back everything I’d taken off and afterwards a friend semi volunteered / we agreed on trading his work on the pedal with mine on helping him with other stuff. Anyhow, on to the details.

Installation is a pain, but the instructions with the kit do the job. It’s as you’d think, you are upside down, on your back, and getting in and out for additional tools if you don’t have someone handing them to you. It’s all do-able but yeah, a pain. There are also a number of times you’ll be asking “why won’t these 2 things come apart”, or vice-versa, “why won’t this thing push all the way through”. If you’ve DIY’d little more than wiper blades, you might not want to do the work. If you’ve swapped out springs and struts yourself, or at least replaced brake pads and rotors on cars at some point in your life, you can do this job. Tools were fairly standard, if you have a torx set, metric allen wrenches, and metric sockets you’ll have what you need. We / he took about 2 hours overall, including a few short breaks.

The results ae immediately noticed, it’s different, and other than the pedal getting stiffer it’s positively better all around, but this is an opinion. No question the pedal is lined up with the brake now. I still hadn’t shaken muscle memory of my last car (owned 13 years) and it always felt like this pedal was too close and my left leg was abnormally close to me when driving. That’s totally taken care of now, so right away I’m pleased. You notice it when you first sit in the car to start it. In short, mission accomplished.

Beyond that, of course the overall pedal travel is shorter. The change to engagement from the floorboard up, and the change to being disengaged when you push the pedal, are the same distance, and so its overall action feels centered – not especially high, nor low. I feel like, and choose that word carefully, that that range is also tighter. Like the amount of travel between one and the other (engaged / disengaged) is quicker. If you’re doing the 1-2 shift, this in combination with the CDV delete, will have you feel the car slightly lurch and chirp the tires. If you want it smooth, you have to make it smooth with your driving, if you want it snappy, you can move quickly and snappy will certainly be how it acts.

I think the pedal is stiffer, but can’t measure this either. I’m sure something could be rigged up to measure it but I didn’t do so before or after. But after immediately noticing the pedal in a new place, I next realized it felt stiffer. Could be nothing more than the location having moved, or it could be because small ratios of pivot points are moved relative to each other, I don’t know. But by the time I got home, I was “used “ to it and so it’s not very much stiffer (if at all).

So, yeah, I’m happy. Pedal is even with the brake, I think it’s snappier, and overall I’ve got zero regrets at all. I don’t know if it’s “worth it” or if it’ll fix any issues anyone has, but I’m certainly glad I’ve got it installed. For me it is worth it and did fix the thing I wanted to fix (primarily the pedal location).

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

Copying and pasting a post I made also on the Z4 forums elsewhere. But I am guessing all of my thoughts would transfer to a Supra as well, so hopefully at lest 1 person on the fence can find this useful:

Finally got the Rogue clutch pedal installed this morning. Have to admit I brought it to a friend’s and they did the vast majority of the work. I’d started it a while back but get motion sick easily, and all the trips under the dash, inverting myself, through cheater glasses I rarely wear, set it off. I put back everything I’d taken off and afterwards a friend semi volunteered / we agreed on trading his work on the pedal with mine on helping him with other stuff. Anyhow, on to the details.

Installation is a pain, but the instructions with the kit do the job. It’s as you’d think, you are upside down, on your back, and getting in and out for additional tools if you don’t have someone handing them to you. It’s all do-able but yeah, a pain. There are also a number of times you’ll be asking “why won’t these 2 things come apart”, or vice-versa, “why won’t this thing push all the way through”. If you’ve DIY’d little more than wiper blades, you might not want to do the work. If you’ve swapped out springs and struts yourself, or at least replaced brake pads and rotors on cars at some point in your life, you can do this job. Tools were fairly standard, if you have a torx set, metric allen wrenches, and metric sockets you’ll have what you need. We / he took about 2 hours overall, including a few short breaks.

The results ae immediately noticed, it’s different, and other than the pedal getting stiffer it’s positively better all around, but this is an opinion. No question the pedal is lined up with the brake now. I still hadn’t shaken muscle memory of my last car (owned 13 years) and it always felt like this pedal was too close and my left leg was abnormally close to me when driving. That’s totally taken care of now, so right away I’m pleased. You notice it when you first sit in the car to start it. In short, mission accomplished.

Beyond that, of course the overall pedal travel is shorter. The change to engagement from the floorboard up, and the change to being disengaged when you push the pedal, are the same distance, and so its overall action feels centered – not especially high, nor low. I feel like, and choose that word carefully, that that range is also tighter. Like the amount of travel between one and the other (engaged / disengaged) is quicker. If you’re doing the 1-2 shift, this in combination with the CDV delete, will have you feel the car slightly lurch and chirp the tires. If you want it smooth, you have to make it smooth with your driving, if you want it snappy, you can move quickly and snappy will certainly be how it acts.

I think the pedal is stiffer, but can’t measure this either. I’m sure something could be rigged up to measure it but I didn’t do so before or after. But after immediately noticing the pedal in a new place, I next realized it felt stiffer. Could be nothing more than the location having moved, or it could be because small ratios of pivot points are moved relative to each other, I don’t know. But by the time I got home, I was “used “ to it and so it’s not very much stiffer (if at all).

So, yeah, I’m happy. Pedal is even with the brake, I think it’s snappier, and overall I’ve got zero regrets at all. I don’t know if it’s “worth it” or if it’ll fix any issues anyone has, but I’m certainly glad I’ve got it installed. For me it is worth it and did fix the thing I wanted to fix (primarily the pedal location).

Thanks for the detailed review.

How much less travel would you estimate?

After deleting the CDV, I still feel like the take up, or range that the clutch is still partially engaged is really long. I’d estimate half way up to all the way up the clutch is still partially engaged. Does this shorten that range significantly?

 

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You might have to rephrase the question if I don't answer it right. You're talking about the travel / distance between kind of like beginning to disengage and becoming full disengaged, or vice-versa letting off and engaging? I don't have a number on that and it would be hard to get one. My perception is that it's a shorter distance, the change is quicker, and that it's noticeable. Though I'll readily admit that it could be actually improved, or it could be wishful thinking or even that since it's repositioned it feels different but isn't. I really do however think the engagement is faster, it seemed easier to sort of jerk the car by letting off of it quickly than it used to be.

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

You might have to rephrase the question if I don't answer it right. You're talking about the travel / distance between kind of like beginning to disengage and becoming full disengaged, or vice-versa letting off and engaging? I don't have a number on that and it would be hard to get one. My perception is that it's a shorter distance, the change is quicker, and that it's noticeable. Though I'll readily admit that it could be actually improved, or it could be wishful thinking or even that since it's repositioned it feels different but isn't. I really do however think the engagement is faster, it seemed easier to sort of jerk the car by letting off of it quickly than it used to be.

Yes, that’s exactly what I’m talking about, thank you! If you had to guess, how much of the the total travel (percentage) is that range?

 

[tracer bullet]

Yes, that’s exactly what I’m talking about, thank you! If you had to guess, how much of the the total travel (percentage) is that range?

As an engineer I'm really reluctant to take such guesses. Nothing extreme, but noticeable. 25% reduction? 1/3? Can't say and will admit it might actually be 0. This kind of stuff is tough to be accurate on.

There's a spot on the new pedal where you attach it to the slave cylinder (is it master?) under the dash, with 2 positions you can choose. I chose the one closest to the pedal itself, roughly imitating the stock position. We were trying to reason out which would be better and why, but started there and I'm happy with it. So there's a chance this is adjustable somewhat as well.

More notes -

If you don't plan to DIY it, you might want to find a shop that will agree to do it before you order it. It's a PITA job and not all might be willing to jump into it. Not sure if it'll even show up for them to look up a book time on for a quote, might have to be an agreement ahead of time that it will be by the hour or something and they'll just do their best.

Also, the plastic pieces holding it together currently, 4 of the 5 pins total currently being plastic, means some of them may break on their way out. They have an interesting twist-lock kind of thing that once it's in place is reluctant to come out. By design of course to keep them put, but also meaning they'll fight a bit. Once you get started on the job you're somewhat forced to complete it. It's totally do-able, so it's OK, but FYI.

A note on that, part way into the job we could tell that the newer components tightened things up. Anecdotal / perception of course, not measured with calipers. But after it was put back together, it was less wiggly overall (side to side motion and other slop) than when we got started. There are enough other changes that it becomes part of the overall package, and I didn't have any complaints prior to the job about slop, and so I won't sit at a keyboard today and say it feels tighter. But as far as doing the work and being under the dash, and manipulating everything, things did seem to really tighten up. But not too tightly, nothing is binding at all, we checked for that.

Other random notes, for whomever - The kit mentioned using included lube, I didn't see any included but we had caliper grease on hand and put that in the bushings. And the airbag, probably should have disconnected the battery, but didn't. Maybe got lucky, not sure. Kept the car off the whole time so it wouldn't go check for it. Be sure step 1 is to push the seat all the way back and down, and lift the steering wheel all the way up, to maximize room. Have a few paper or shop towels handy when you get to the big compression spring, it's greasy AF and it'll be hard to hold anything else or keep your car reasonably clean afterwards.

 

[Keemaca]

@tracer bullet Did you replace the clutch stop also? Wondering if there is a feel to that also ?

 

[tracer bullet]

@tracer bullet Did you replace the clutch stop also? Wondering if there is a feel to that also ?

I didn't, I guess I've never felt the need to mash the pedal all the way down to the carpet to shift and haven't ever been interested in one.

 

[BananaBoi]

Does anyone have this installed with an aftermarket clutch?

Thinking of picking this up but don’t want to mess with the engagement and risk ruining my clutch.

 

[johnsmither]

Bumping this a bit. So the pedal is now initially lower but does it still have the same travel length? I always find it goes too far in. Trying to find a solution for a shorter travel length while still ensuring everything disengages properly

 

[tracer bullet]

If you're asking me, you'll have to go back a bit and see my earlier impressions. I didn't measure it, and at this point I've gotten really used to it. To get a better answer someone would have to measure before and after, and even that would be somewhat tough to get accurately.

The short answer is "I think so" but that's not much to go on.

Someone else has maybe done it and can say?

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