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Axle Change Feedback Needed - Bolt Wont Move?

MisterSkiz

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I'm literally have this bolt to remove, but my impacts wont move it at all.

Is it reverse threaded? I haven't checked the manual yet....

I'm having to use extensions - I ordered a Milwaukee M12 Right Angle Ratchet Impact to maybe help get it out, my corded and battery impacts are just damaging the bolt.

Also, the bolt that held in the axle was so freaking tight as well - no way these are in there to spec...and I bought my car new too and it only has 2,900 miles on it.

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MisterSkiz

MisterSkiz

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Yea mine was on with Austrian body builder strength too. I had to use like a 4 ft breaker bar.
Thank you for your quick reply!

Did you take off the rotor and dust shield and/or shock to give yourself more room?

I am honestly afraid of snapping the head off the bolt with a breaker bar...

I have watched some videos and it seemed pretty easy, and I'm used to working on cars.



I hung it up for today:
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itzTang

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yea try breaker bar with a short socket. adding extension to power tool gives it less torque. make sure youre using 6 point socket or gonna round out the bolt.
 

lucky phil

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yea try breaker bar with a short socket. adding extension to power tool gives it less torque. make sure youre using 6 point socket or gonna round out the bolt.
In my experience and from previous historical information a twelve point socket is worse for rounding off heads than a 6 point on a std head fastener. The twelve point actually applies the force closer to the corner than the 6 point. The only advantage a 12 point has is better ability to install on the head in tight locations plus of course some high grade bolts are 12 points. Of course a high quality 12 point is still probably better than a low quality 6 point for a std head fastener.
 
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itzTang

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In my experience and from previous historical information a twelve point socket is worse for rounding off heads than a 6 point on a std head fastener. The twelve point actually applies the force closer to the corner than the 6 point. The only advantage a 12 point has is better ability to install on the head in tight locations plus of course some high grade bolts are 12 points. Of course a high quality 12 point is still probably better than a low quality 6 point for a std head fastener.
so what are you trying to say? use 12 point or 6 point?
 
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MisterSkiz

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yea try breaker bar with a short socket. adding extension to power tool gives it less torque. make sure youre using 6 point socket or gonna round out the bolt.
Yup! Using 6 point impact sockets.
 
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MisterSkiz

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Next steps are to see if my new impact ratchet will work.

If that doesn't work, then the rotor, caliper, dust shield are coming off to let me get breaker bar access.

If the breaker bar breaks the head off the bolt, I'm bolting everything back up and trading the car in on a brand new Z06. :p
 

lucky phil

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Next steps are to see if my new impact ratchet will work.

If that doesn't work, then the rotor, caliper, dust shield are coming off to let me get breaker bar access.

If the breaker bar breaks the head off the bolt, I'm bolting everything back up and trading the car in on a brand new Z06. :p
The closer you can make the bar angle to 90 degrees to the bolt the better of course. If you have a quality socket and breaker bar then don't be afraid to use a pipe extension on it. You are better with more controlled leverage and less force on the end of the bar than applying more grunt to a shorter bar and having less control.
The issue with impact wrenches is they need a fastener in a solid workpiece. Anything that involves a rubber mounting component to it or not a really solidly mounted piece reduces their effectiveness.
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Interesting, I just replaced that arm with a Verkline one and taking it off was cake. A normal 6 point plus a 14 inch breaker did it for me. I did have a ratcheting breaker bar so it was easier for me to get the bar angled on there and have some slight movement then ratchet it back a couple clicks and then continuing to try and break.
 
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MisterSkiz

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Ok, got the bolt out with my new tool and a bit of prying - but now the fuckin axle WONT pull out at all - usually I have in the past had to get it past the snap ring using a pry bar it is just comes right out in other cars.

Any thoughts on how to get the axle out? Im trying to pull straight out by grabbing the shaft....

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lucky phil

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Ok, got the bolt out with my new tool and a bit of prying - but now the fuckin axle WONT pull out at all - usually I have in the past had to get it past the snap ring using a pry bar it is just comes right out in other cars.

Any thoughts on how to get the axle out? Im trying to pull straight out by grabbing the shaft....

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Most axles are held in the diff with a circlip on the shaft and "I think" the Supra is the same. You'll need a large soft faced or dead blow hammer to release the clip or a piece of hardwood and a hammer to give it a knock. Sometimes a hard yank will do it but not always. Same goes for the install. A good thwak to seat it is needed.
BTW for reassembly of the suspension links a podger or guide bolt is useful. Just grind a tapered end on an old suspension bolt or piece of steel rod the same diameter and knock it through with a hammer. The tapered end will align the components and then you knock the fixture bolt through with a good hard tap from the opposite way (the way it's supposed to go) Generally easier than levering components around with a pry bar.
Phil
 
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MisterSkiz

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Ah..nevermind - I got it. I wore some gloves and got a nice grip deep on the shaft near the diff and jammed in and out and it popped out and I fell on my butt.
 
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MisterSkiz

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Most axles are held in the diff with a circlip on the shaft and "I think" the Supra is the same. You'll need a large soft faced or dead blow hammer to release the clip or a piece of hardwood and a hammer to give it a knock. Sometimes a hard yank will do it but not always. Same goes for the install. A good thwak to seat it is needed.
Phil
Thank you for the quick reply! I literally just got it :) And yes it has a snap ring on it.
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