Brake Bleeding Help!

[ericchen_ec]

In the rare chance this helps someone who has ISTA but can't get the supra to connect.
(I did not search if this was already posted just trying to be helpful)

I was getting my calipers powder coated, took a few days and came back and the plugs I use to stop the brake fluid from leaking failed on me, my master cylinder was bone dry.... could not get fluid the flow through the calipers well enough and could not get brake pressure.

A lot of sources say that the BMW ISTA does not work on the supra for brake bleeding, but it did for me, and I did not pay anything for a license. Bimmergeeks use to offer an ISTA download, but most ISTA download have been removed a couple years ago, you can still find it online through other users, which is where I got mine (~100GB download). I believe everything you find online is like a 2021 version, nothing newer is online (I do not know if it works for post 2021 supras).

Now if you do have the regular ISTA already or find it online to download and have the problem that you cannot get the supra to connect to ISTA, this is what you do. Go to where your ISTA is downloaded and follow this path. and edit the ISTAGUI.exe with any texteditor

Search for this string of code

the value, at least for me was set to false by default, change it to true and reset, the bmw ISTA should now be able to read the supra through enet cable.

and before I get dms, no I do not feel like waiting nor figuring out how to upload a copy of a 100GB program for you to download..

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[Levophed]

Yeah, I did that! Multiple times. With and without the power bleeder. The ISTA procedure finishes up with a bleed "the old school way" after actuating the DSC module several times while pressing the pedal over and over. I'm at a loss.

I never got the brake feel I wanted trying to activate ABS and all that. I probably actuated ABS like 30-40 times on the street to try and get all the air out and bled 4x. I just gave up and took it to the dealership and it ended up fixing everything. I know you did an ISTA bleed but you might need to do it again.

 

[Eplejus]

Can abs brake bleeding be done with a diagnostic scanner (Autel, Foxwell, iCarsoft etc.) or can it only be done with ISTA?

 

[Ryan P]

Can abs brake bleeding be done with a diagnostic scanner (Autel, Foxwell, iCarsoft etc.) or can it only be done with ISTA?

My understanding is that it can only be done with ISTA. The regular scan tools don't work.

 

[Ryan P]

I never got the brake feel I wanted trying to activate ABS and all that. I probably actuated ABS like 30-40 times on the street to try and get all the air out. I just gave up and took it to the dealership and it ended up fixing everything. I know you did an ISTA bleed but you might need to do it again.

How did you get air in your system to begin with? That's the part I'm most struggling with. The disappointment that I cocked it up and can't get it fixed.

 

[razorlab]

I've never had to ISTA bleed my system and have flushed and bled the system probably over twenty times at this point. I even replaced my calipers with brand new calipers that were 100% dry.

Unless the brake res goes dry, you shouldn't have to do a ISTA bleed procedure.

 

[J29DB03]

Maybe I’m stupid but I don’t see the point of using a baster when using a Motive. Did my flush this spring, didn’t use a baster, just filled the Motive and bled until I saw new fluid coming out of all 6 screws. Level in reservoir never changed the entire process. Pedal feels exactly the same.

 

[ericchen_ec]

Can abs brake bleeding be done with a diagnostic scanner (Autel, Foxwell, iCarsoft etc.) or can it only be done with ISTA?

Autel has the option, but when using it, it keps failing halfway.

 

[lucky phil]

I've never had to ISTA bleed my system and have flushed and bled the system probably over twenty times at this point. I even replaced my calipers with brand new calipers that were 100% dry.

Unless the brake res goes dry, you shouldn't have to do a ISTA bleed procedure.

The only other way I can see you getting air into the anti skid control unit is if you already have air in the braking system and you cycle the ignition switch on or start the engine during the bleed process which I think people have done. Then the control unit will do a self test and cycle it's pump and control valves and maybe you could get air in the system then. From my understanding of automotive anti lock control units unless they are activated then the brake lines simply enter and exit the unit and the internal valving stays closed and keeps the control unit system isolated from the main system so in effect you are simply bypassing the unit so no air should enter and no ISTA required.
Phil

 

[Gabe]

All great info here. The person I trust to work on my brakes did do a full flush (including the ABS system using ISTA) because he said I was switching from the OEM brake fluid to the Castrol SRF fluid.
According to him, I don’t need to flush the ABS anymore and just a power bleed at home would do - which I will be doing as soon as I get back home next week.

 

[Levophed]

How did you get air in your system to begin with? That's the part I'm most struggling with. The disappointment that I cocked it up and can't get it fixed.

My theory of how I got air in the ABS was by not refilling the reservoir to the max line after using a turkey baster to take out the old brake fluid. I also used a motive bleeder and thought that I had plenty of fluid in there before I screwed it on. I re-read your initial first post and based off how you worded it, seems like you might've accidentally done the same thing. The ABS solenoid must be really REALLY close to that minimum line.

I got so pissed off with this whole fiasco I ended up giving the bleeder to the friend and plan to just do it the "old fashioned way" from now on LOL. Will also most likely overfill the reservoir past the max line next time just to be safe.

I am also a total noob and I could be completely wrong no idea.

 

[FLtrackdays]

it may be as good as it gets. I just need some reassurance I guess.

It likely is as good as it’s going to get. They usually start feeling better after a good track day. I’ve never done the ABS module bleed. I have tried lots of different pads & had a few occasions where they are hard as a rock. Last time was during a trackside pad change by a company that has a trailer at many of the Sebring events. And it was also the 1st time I tried the P mu 999s. They said the pads were a really tight fit. Who knows what the combo was. Regardless, I’m really happy with those pads and bleeding out the dirty fluid after each track event. Old habits & my version of track insurance.

Separate note: A friend recently had his pads wearing unevenly, inner over outer I believe. If the car is no longer brand new and you want to track, you may want to consider doing a caliper rebuild. Good to know the seals, pistons, calipers pins are in good working order and you’re totally free of debris.

 

[gixxersixxerman]

I’ve done 3 Supras, mine that had so many issues after powder coating the calipers, and 2 other friends cars. The first one we bled the brakes with the power bleeder like I have done hundreds of times before on other cars. And it gave that same weird ass brake pedal feeling as mine. I was about to pull out the laptop and ITSA but decided to try bleeding with the car running and that fixed his issue, great pedal feel.

I didn’t try my car because even Toyota couldn’t get it back to stock. I did another friends and his was the same, weird ass pedal until I bled it with the car running.

After that I bled mine with the car running and it fixed it. OEM pedal feeling. Toyota replaced the master cylinder, ABS module and bled it, took it to a specialty shop they tried, no one could get past this weird like 60% pedal feeling. I bled it with the car running and it’s back to stock feeling

TLDR try bleeding the brakes with the car running.

 

[DarkZupra]

I’ve done 3 Supras, mine that had so many issues after powder coating the calipers, and 2 other friends cars. The first one we bled the brakes with the power bleeder like I have done hundreds of times before on other cars. And it gave that same weird ass brake pedal feeling as mine. I was about to pull out the laptop and ITSA but decided to try bleeding with the car running and that fixed his issue, great pedal feel.

I didn’t try my car because even Toyota couldn’t get it back to stock. I did another friends and his was the same, weird ass pedal until I bled it with the car running.

After that I bled mine with the car running and it fixed it. OEM pedal feeling. Toyota replaced the master cylinder, ABS module and bled it, took it to a specialty shop they tried, no one could get past this weird like 60% pedal feeling. I bled it with the car running and it’s back to stock feeling

TLDR try bleeding the brakes with the car running.

Interesting. While the car was running you used a power bleeder or did it the old fashioned way?

 

[gixxersixxerman]

Interesting. While the car was running you used a power bleeder or did it the old fashioned way?

I believe I had some fluid the power bleeder, but I may have just used the pressure of it, but yes had it connected every time. Idk if it made a difference or not. I can’t say for the 2 Supras I did, but mine, it felt like I could press the pedal a lot further down and maybe that’s why it worked in my case? Also according to my son. No air bubbles were present during the bleeding of my car. And I didn’t see any noticeable air bubbles in the other 2 cars.

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