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TBK's Time Attack Build: MK-BRX

razorlab

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The not fully seating part is normal, the force it's taking to move it is not. Only time that thing is close to closed is normal cruise driving and at the very beginning of spool.
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TBK

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The not fully seating part is normal, the force it's taking to move it is not. Only time that thing is close to closed is normal cruise driving and at the very beginning of spool.
Here are my non manufacturer defect theory...

Meth cut out, EGTs spiked instantly....then if I lift off throttle or the ECU cuts fuel/timing that creates a massive thermal contraction. So rapid heat cycling like that can warp the wastegate seat or the flapper disk.

Or maybe meth failed mid-pull and so the boost tapering logic based on knock kicks in as a failsafe. But if it spikes before the ECU can react, the wastegate actuator slams open under massive pressure...

Or Pure just shipped something broken to me

I have no idea what i'm talking about. But can't learn unless i throw out some theories here and there...
 

skatheeri

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So i took the car to my tuner to get some dyno logs done (plus an additional map i requested) and to make sure it wasn't a tuning issue that wasn't (at least partially) causing the issues i was facing. Keep in mind i didn't have time to drive the car at all post turbo/tune. Pretty much straight to the track. Not ideal obv, but it didn't really have a choice.

Anyway, yeah it's not a tune issue. So they proactively checked around (he's my tuner, but he has a shop too), and it seems my wastgate was jammed and wasn't even fully seating. How is that even possible on a brand new turbo? wtf pure...

















































Damn, I'm already waiting on my pure800 to arrive and seeing this only made me worry, what is your next step are you going to ship it back? if so tell us how it goes.
 
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TBK

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Damn, I'm already waiting on my pure800 to arrive and seeing this only made me worry, what is your next step are you going to ship it back? if so tell us how it goes.

Looks like we're going to be able to repair it

Also I wouldn't worry tbh. Even if it was a manufacturer defect, it's almost certainly a fluke
 

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Here are my non manufacturer defect theory...

Meth cut out, EGTs spiked instantly....then if I lift off throttle or the ECU cuts fuel/timing that creates a massive thermal contraction. So rapid heat cycling like that can warp the wastegate seat or the flapper disk.

Or maybe meth failed mid-pull and so the boost tapering logic based on knock kicks in as a failsafe. But if it spikes before the ECU can react, the wastegate actuator slams open under massive pressure...

Or Pure just shipped something broken to me

I have no idea what i'm talking about. But can't learn unless i throw out some theories here and there...
All theory until you log. :)
 
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TBK

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1st race of the other time attack series is coming up this Sunday. This one has the open pit lane format, which I like a whole lot more.

1000170013.webp



All theory until you log. :)
Yeah I think I'll log a couple of short pulls on the street this Saturday
 

razorlab

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1st race of the other time attack series is coming up this Sunday. This one has the open pit lane format, which I like a whole lot more.






Yeah I think I'll log a couple of short pulls on the street this Saturday
You fixed the turbo already?
 
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You fixed the turbo already?
Possibly. We still need to test it out, and under a bit of stress. So it's going on the dyno later today

Did get the new meth tank on. Out goes the 3 liter underhood tank and in goes the 9.5 liter trunk mounted tank

1000169847.webp
 

FLtrackdays

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Possibly. We still need to test it out, and under a bit of stress. So it's going on the dyno later today

Did get the new meth tank on. Out goes the 3 liter underhood tank and in goes the 9.5 liter trunk mounted tank

1000169847.webp
Your Supra is going to be stupidly fast 🏁 Goodluck and have fun!!
 
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Your Supra is going to be stupidly fast 🏁 Goodluck and have fun!!
Thanks man, appreciate it

On that note...


Moving away from the Ohlins that've served me well so far. Big fan of those coilovers, especially paired with the SS camber plates. They're just a great dual purpose setup.

But, it's time to go up a step. So i have Nitron 3 way coilovers on the way. Came down to these or the Moton 3 way ones.

Setting up 3 way coilovers is a bit intimidating....


1761132483440-g6.webp
 

cbrummell

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Thanks man, appreciate it

On that note...


Moving away from the Ohlins that've served me well so far. Big fan of those coilovers, especially paired with the SS camber plates. They're just a great dual purpose setup.

But, it's time to go up a step. So i have Nitron 3 way coilovers on the way. Came down to these or the Moton 3 way ones.

Setting up 3 way coilovers is a bit intimidating....


1761132483440-g6.webp
VERY excited to hear your review/impressions on these coilovers once you've got them on the car and had some seat time to dial them in.
 
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TBK

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What spring rates?

60nm front and 140nm rear. 343/800


I also have an Alcon BBK on order btw, but they've just reached out to me and recommended a larger rotor for better thermal capacity. So we're looking at a 378mm rotor vs the 355 one in the kit i was looking at. If anyone reading this knows if that would clear my 18 inch TE37s (+30)....

I'm probably going to measure anyway, but can't do that right now

Edit: nevermind. Got a friend with a similar setup to measure and yeah that big boy rotor won't fit. That's fine. My initial plan was to stick with a 355x32, which makes it significantly lighter than OEM....and even than the current 348x36 Paragon rotors I'm running. Along with the lighter caliper weight....this is my best chance at reducing weight upfront while still getting better braking performance anyway
 
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razorlab

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60nm front and 140nm rear. 343/800
Are you sure that is correct? 343 lbs/in front is insanely soft. 800 lbs/in rear is about 425 lbs/in since it's divorced. That is an insanely soft setup. The front is about half the rate of what I run and some people think my setup is "soft".
 
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TBK

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VERY excited to hear your review/impressions on these coilovers once you've got them on the car and had some seat time to dial them in.
Will def share my detailed thoughts when i get them on.

Will say this though right off the bat....i think there's very little difference between the brands at the top. Nitron, JRZ, Moton, MCS etc...for the average pleb like us. I'd personally choose with vendor preference in mind and skewing hard towards the brand that can be serviced locally (or closest to me)
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