Fortune Auto 510 Coilover Review

[rwense]

Anyone consider the 520s?

I'm planning on upgrading mine to 520s at some point

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[Tvaughn5]

Looking to order these before they get back d up with Black Friday orders. Any opinions on the best setup as an occasional driver, with no aero, and getting into some track events?

I’ve seen 10/14, 10/16, and 10/18.

 

[raiu]

Looking to order these before they get back d up with Black Friday orders. Any opinions on the best setup as an occasional driver, with no aero, and getting into some track events?

I’ve seen 10/14, 10/16, and 10/18.

I ordered 9/12 on my 510s and it was too soft!

Go 10/14 minimum

 

[ericchen_ec]

I ordered 9/12 and it was too soft!

Go 10/14 minimum

^^, i got 10/16

 

[Tvaughn5]

I ordered 10/14 on their recommendations for my use. Just showed up yesterday!

 

[SupraTR]

Finally got around to installing my Fortune Auto 510 coilovers this weekend as they've been sitting in my garage the past couple months. Initial driving assessment - big fan compared to Stock strut + Eibach Euro lowering springs. Over the years I've always gone lowering springs for my cars and this is my first time going with coilovers so I was concerned about the comfort and my conclusion after install is there was nothing to be worried about there. Handling feels noticeably improved (shocker I know..) and I would say comfort feels neutral to better (except for the large bump bounce noted below). I never loved the ride with the Eibach's.

Now the bad:
- I specced these 8/10k which is lower than most here. This is primarily a street/canyon car so all goals were to maintain comfort and what was recommended from the shop I ordered from. Doing again I'd have gone 9/12 or 10/14 (ordered before the more recent posts saying to go higher). The rear over large bumps has more bounce than I'd prefer, which I believe upping the spring rate would reduce. I may just need to play with the dampeners though currently at 10F/12R so I'll be upping the rear to 18 next time I jack up the car. I think its mainly the rear. Seems like I could just order a 12k or 14k spring to swap out the rear if I can't dial it in.
- I run 305/35s and rubbing over bumps was the main reason I moved to coilovers and I was hoping to raise the car close to a two finger gap. Plenty of adjustment remaining on the front up or down but on the rear I'm at max height and I'd like to be 0.5" - 0.75" higher so it looks like I'll need to buy and install the spring perch @rwense pointed out. Which sucks because that lower control arm bolt is my nemesis (on re-install...maybe 3rd time is the charm). I'm at roughly a one finger gap and 27" ground to fender with these meaty tires and still getting some rear rubbing on compression (but was significantly reduced).

I will try and remember to take an actual pic of the car to post when I'm in the garage later today.

 

[Thraxbert]

The LCA bolt is much easier to align if you use your lugnuts to bolt four LARGE box wrenches to the studs (or lug bolts to the hub) at 12:00/3/6/9. Becomes very easy to horse that hub around, especially lining up the RLCA and/or the last arm to bolt up, which is always the hardest one.

 

[rwense]

Finally got around to installing my Fortune Auto 510 coilovers this weekend as they've been sitting in my garage the past couple months. Initial driving assessment - big fan compared to Stock strut + Eibach Euro lowering springs. Over the years I've always gone lowering springs for my cars and this is my first time going with coilovers so I was concerned about the comfort and my conclusion after install is there was nothing to be worried about there. Handling feels noticeably improved (shocker I know..) and I would say comfort feels neutral to better (except for the large bump bounce noted below). I never loved the ride with the Eibach's.

Now the bad:
- I specced these 8/10k which is lower than most here. This is primarily a street/canyon car so all goals were to maintain comfort and what was recommended from the shop I ordered from. Doing again I'd have gone 9/12 or 10/14 (ordered before the more recent posts saying to go higher). The rear over large bumps has more bounce than I'd prefer, which I believe upping the spring rate would reduce. I may just need to play with the dampeners though currently at 10F/12R so I'll be upping the rear to 18 next time I jack up the car. I think its mainly the rear. Seems like I could just order a 12k or 14k spring to swap out the rear if I can't dial it in.
- I run 305/35s and rubbing over bumps was the main reason I moved to coilovers and I was hoping to raise the car close to a two finger gap. Plenty of adjustment remaining on the front up or down but on the rear I'm at max height and I'd like to be 0.5" - 0.75" higher so it looks like I'll need to buy and install the spring perch @rwense pointed out. Which sucks because that lower control arm bolt is my nemesis (on re-install...maybe 3rd time is the charm). I'm at roughly a one finger gap and 27" ground to fender with these meaty tires and still getting some rear rubbing on compression (but was significantly reduced).

I will try and remember to take an actual pic of the car to post when I'm in the garage later today.

To me that sounds like you need to adjust your dampening. When you hit a bump, what does the rear do? Does it compress, rebound, and take a set (i.e. equalize)? Or does it continue to oscillate? Adding more rate will just increase the amplitude.

 

[Rensuhlo]

definitely order a stiffer spring than you're comfortable with. The rear is divorced, so it's not like traditional coilover spring rates.

I'm on 14/18k and need to go up in rate in the rears.

 

[SupraTR]

To me that sounds like you need to adjust your dampening. When you hit a bump, what does the rear do? Does it compress, rebound, and take a set (i.e. equalize)? Or does it continue to oscillate? Adding more rate will just increase the amplitude.

I like to hear that. So there is specifically a large dip in a highway I'm thinking of. Feels like it compresses and then rebounds fairly hard and then I'd say continues to oscillate longer that I'd like. I set the dampener in the middle at 12 on the rear simply because I figured I wouldn't be able to discern which direction to truly go initially, first go around with coilovers and all that. Now that I'm ready to tweak I'll read up more on impact of dampening adjustments, but what would you suggest?

 

[ericchen_ec]

To me that sounds like you need to adjust your dampening. When you hit a bump, what does the rear do? Does it compress, rebound, and take a set (i.e. equalize)? Or does it continue to oscillate? Adding more rate will just increase the amplitude.

For street use on 510 Im only ony 3-5 clicks of stiffness and it feels fine, rode on full stiff once around the neighborhood and it was not uncomfortable at all lol.

 

[rwense]

I like to hear that. So there is specifically a large dip in a highway I'm thinking of. Feels like it compresses and then rebounds fairly hard and then I'd say continues to oscillate longer that I'd like. I set the dampener in the middle at 12 on the rear simply because I figured I wouldn't be able to discern which direction to truly go initially, first go around with coilovers and all that. Now that I'm ready to tweak I'll read up more on impact of dampening adjustments, but what would you suggest?

So something to remember (and this helped me quite a lot) is think of dampening adjustments not in terms of "stiff" or "soft". Dampening DOES NOT affect your actual spring rate, rather dampening CONTROLS the spring.

So in your case if the rear feels like it rebounds fast that tells me there isn't enough dampening to control the rebound of the spring. So add more dampening until the rear compresses and rebounds without further oscillation.

A trade off of 1-way coilovers is that these adjustments "cross talk". Meaning, you adjust rebound primarily but compression will also be affected.

Also to what @Rensuhlo said, when you decide to up the rate you'll most likely want more than you think. Since we have a divorced setup in the rear (meaning the spring and damper are not in one part/linear direction) the motion ratio between the two is different. If I recall its basically 0.5. So in other words my 20k Rear spring is actually more like a 10k spring.

 

[razorlab]

I believe it's closer to .59 so for example a rear divorced spring at 900lb/in = 531 lb/in

I just went through this again on my M240i when setting everything up with Ohlins and everything I researched put it closer to .59

With the M240i I am now at 500lb/in front and 900lb/in rear which = 531 lb/in which I wanted because it's AWD, heavy and longer wheelbase so I didn't want it to totally plow like a dump truck.

 

[i3igpete]

The LCA bolt is much easier to align

Elite ball knowledge. Can't wait to try it.

 

[SupraTR]

Elite ball knowledge. Can't wait to try it.

Yeah big time pro tip here. I've already ordered the spring perches so will be trying this out within the next couple weeks.

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