Lowering Springs Suspension Noise Identified ???

Do you have suspension noise after installing lowering springs? What method of installation?


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MAXecutive

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yes, that is what I did as well. I stuck my hand in there and lined it up. I made sure the yellow marker lined up too.
I still had the dust boot glued to bottom part of the bearing. For some reason I made the yellow marks shift a little because the new springs ended in a different location. I don't think the bearing has and actual spot to snap into or else they would not have marked it that way from the factory.
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I still had the dust boot glued to bottom part of the bearing. For some reason I made the yellow marks shift a little because the new springs ended in a different location. I don't think the bearing has and actual spot to snap into or else they would not have marked it that way from the factory.
you can separate the bearing from the dust boot. the bearing should seat flush with the strut mount. You can still wiggle/rotate the bearing to make it line up perfectly. I used a jack to slowly raise the strut from below while keeping everything lined up. hope this helps!
 
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you can separate the bearing from the dust boot. the bearing should seat flush with the strut mount. You can still wiggle/rotate the bearing to make it line up perfectly. I used a jack to slowly raise the strut from below while keeping everything lined up. hope this helps!
That seems to be the better method. I was trying to move everything up together and get the bearing to snap in place. We kept an Allen key on the strut to help align everything as the jack went up.

I'll mess with the sway bar link again and see what happens. If I still have issues I will take it all apart again when I install the new front sway bar.
 

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I lowered my struts down yesterday and turned the top bearing so the yellow lines up and just like that the noises are gone! Thanks everyone.
glad it worked out for you. it really is all the small details in not just this car, but in many things. I follow all factory torque specs for every bolt I touch or manipulate. my father was a master mechanic for lexus for 30 plus years, he always talks to me about keeping everything factory specs!
 

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Hello to all, Iā€™m new here. Iā€™ve run into the rattle issue and Iā€™m trying to remedy it. Iā€™m going to reinstall the springs and just wanted to verify the alignment of the factory markings on the shock cap bearings & spring. With the new springs do you just line up the cap and the upper & lower marks on the bearings and have the spring fully seated against the rubber boot ends at bottom and top? I noticed the stock spring alignment marks were 180 out from the cut end of the spring does it matter the new positioning of the spring when itā€™s fully seated? Please advise. Thank you.
 

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Does this stuff only apply tho those whoā€™s bearing came out? I could be wrong but I donā€™t think my bearing came out.

I have a very feint tick at low speeds but no binding. So Iā€™ve kind of just been ignoring it
 
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Hello to all, Iā€™m new here. Iā€™ve run into the rattle issue and Iā€™m trying to remedy it. Iā€™m going to reinstall the springs and just wanted to verify the alignment of the factory markings on the shock cap bearings & spring. With the new springs do you just line up the cap and the upper & lower marks on the bearings and have the spring fully seated against the rubber boot ends at bottom and top? I noticed the stock spring alignment marks were 180 out from the cut end of the spring does it matter the new positioning of the spring when itā€™s fully seated? Please advise. Thank you.
The factory markings should line up on the top half of the bearing to the aluminum piece. When I take mine apart again, I will do that even though I don't think it matters much. The bottom is free to spin all around so it shouldn't matter where it lines up with the top mark with your new springs. The rubber isolator on the top of the spring may be in a different position which is fine, just make sure it's seated properly at the end.

I believe the factory made the marks to determine if the bearing itself slips over time by providing a reference when the wheels are straight. Remember that the car was assembled first and the marks were applied after everything was bolted up.
 
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Does this stuff only apply tho those whoā€™s bearing came out? I could be wrong but I donā€™t think my bearing came out.

I have a very feint tick at low speeds but no binding. So Iā€™ve kind of just been ignoring it
the faint tick seems more like the sway bar end links not fully tightened or coming loose to me. I have no noises when turning the wheels when stopped.
 

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Warning ... Long post but may be helpful for all H&R and Eibach spring installs with noise issues ....



Hello everyone. This is my first post on the forums. I had my Supra since August and finally performed my first mod, Eibach springs. I'm familiar with the BMW platform since I also have a F36, 435 Series Gran Coupe xDrive with Dinan stage 3. I did lowering springs on that car and then eventually went with air-lift. I'm a big DIY and prefer to do as much as I can by myself.

The A90 suspension is extremely similar to the F3x chassis. I decided follow the "shortcut" method of loosening the strut nut with the top mount still on the car and the bottom still attached to the knuckle . When I did the F36 springs, I removed the whole strut assembly the "proper" way because I did not want to cause any damage to the CV joints by forcing the knuckle down.


As I lowered the A90 spring down, I got a black ring that dropped with the top rubber isolator. The strut bearing separated in two pieces but very cleanly. I was able to pull off the bigger portion from the top hat and snap the 2 pieces back together. It was able to spin freely and stay together as one piece. It gave me a hard time to properly seat the bearing evenly all around back onto the bottom of the top hat. You have to do this all while trying to jack the knuckle up with the spring and keep both top and bottom rubber mounts in alignment ... At this point, I realized it would have been much easier to just take the strut out of the hub and swap the springs the proper way with a compressor on the floor. You essentially take all load and weight off the entire assembly while disassembling.

I remember watching a video the night before about Ricky's car which had strut bearings break apart into pieces. His dealer left the strut shipping blocks on the car. BMW did that when I bought my F36 so I made sure Toyota removed them before I left the dealer. Mine came apart into 2 clean pieces and I was able to put it back with no issue. Watch from 7:57 and check out part 2:

After I finished both sides and rotated the wheel, I was getting a cracking sound from the passenger side. I looked up and noticed the strut bearing was squeezing and spreading apart while rotating. Both sides did the same thing but only the passenger side made noise. I took that whole assembly apart, reset everything and the noise went away. I marked the strut bearing with a paint marker just like the OEM and made sure everything was nice and tight.

After the first test drive, I got a slight ticking noise when going over bumps. It sounded like the start of failing/loose BMW sway bar end links. I put the car back in the air a few days later and re-checked the torque on the sway bar end links but they were fine. I added some paint markings just to trace if they move over time. After another drive, the noise is still there. I tried re-torquing the strut top bolt and those were also fine, no changes to the noise. The car doesn't make any noise when you turn the wheels from full lock left to right when on the ground, I only notice it in the air with no weight on the suspension. The noise is definitely noticeable when riding over bumps.

My theory is that the "shortcut" installation method is what causes these noises from the strut bearing. It may get worse over time and need to be replaced. I looked up the BMW Z4 G29 part (BMW 31306890656) and it's about $120 each ... If you look at most of the install videos on YouTube that follow this method, the strut bearings either stay on the car or come off fully at one piece. I seem to be the only one who had it break in two.

I am curious to know how everyone else had their springs installed that are getting noise issues. You can vote on the poll and share your experience too. Hopefully we can all figure this one out.
So I think we need to be very clear in what noise you are experiencing, there could be a few different ones (caused by different things). Bearing noise, when turning, like a binding/clicking, would point to what some covered with the bearing alignment/sitting flush situation. The other, more of a rattle/chatter while driving the car and when the strut oscillates quickly. I had the struts completely removed and even had new assembles w/ bearings installed when I had the Eibach pro set installed and car aligned. I experienced the exact same rattle/chatter in the OP video @ the 2Min. mark. This is caused by the spring itself. If you look at the spring when the car is on the ground, you will see that the upper part of the spring coils touch/sit on each other (see Pic). This is normal for most progressive rate springs. If you contact Eibach they will send you spring sleeves, which are just a split tube with adhesive. Just clean the spring and install, very easy. Since I installed, no more rattle/chatter and all is well!

4259D2D1-2443-4FF2-BDBE-A5CB87DFEED2.jpeg
 
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Waferz

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So I think we need to be very clear in what noise you are experiencing, there could be a few different ones (caused by different things). Bearing noise, when turning, like a binding/clicking, would point to what some covered with the bearing alignment/sitting flush situation. The other, more of a rattle/chatter while driving the car and when the strut oscillates quickly. I had the struts completely removed and even had new assembles w/ bearings installed when I had the Eibach pro set installed and car aligned. I experienced the exact same rattle/chatter in the OP video @ the 2Min. mark. This is caused by the spring itself. If you look at the spring when the car is on the ground, you will see that the upper part of the spring coils touch/sit on each other. This is normal for most progressive rate springs. If you contact Eibach they will send you spring sleeves, which are just a split tube with adhesive. Just clean the spring and install, very easy. Since I installed, no more rattle/chatter and all is well!
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You da MAN!!!! Where can we contact them?
Easiest and quickest is to call 800-507-2338 and ask for tech support. Explain the situation and they should offer to send the sleeves at no cost, just have to provide purchase receipt document.

60EA292B-B1BF-4D9E-BA34-1147BF45797D.jpeg
 

Brandonanix

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This has me extremely paranoid now about lowering the car after reading through everyoneā€™s experiences. Does anyone know of any shops in so-cal who are aware of all of these quirks and details and can do this right on the first try?
 
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Wow, this is amazing!!!! I hope this is really the solution. I will call Eibach and speak to them and share this tread with them. Hopefully they can make things right and sell the kits with these sleeves already included.
 

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I need some sleeves for my H&R Springs in the back. I put some thin carpet between the touching springs when jacked up and then drove and zero chatter until carpet fell out. Can anyone think of a DIY solution that would hold up?
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