MaherSupra
Active Member
- First Name
- Maher
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2020
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 38
- Reaction score
- 20
- Location
- Arlington, VA
- Car(s)
- Toyota Supra
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Haha I love how you say as long as I’m not moving!!! Gut it out and sound deadening it with Roadkill or any other good quality sound deadening it will significantly reduce road noises. I spend more time in my car by choice because I love driving! It’s a choice so it better sound and ride beautifully. From all the cars I owned I don’t mind spending more money on it it’s a great car.I have high end equipment in my house. I can hear the same details in the Supra as long as I’m not moving. That points more to resonance at volume, speaker breakup at volume, lack of insulation against road noise and resonance, and lack of high frequency absorption materials in the car. All of these can be addressed fairly well without ripping the entire system out and/or losing integration.
In researching what I wanted to do, I came across where an actual speaker designer of some fairly well acclaimed speakers has this system in his BMW. The only things he did was add a 2nd order low pass and third order high pass to the front L&R speakers, add proper dampening/baffling material, and I believe he disabled the center and rears as well. The factory speakers once the above was done measured well.
If an objective and respected audio design engineer says these can measure (not just sound) good with proper work, I’m inclined to believe him. Hell, some of the better shops I went to said to leave the speakers alone unless I wanted to pay for marginal gains. I know what I don’t know, so I lean on those who have no skin in the game who do know.
I don’t want 110-120db continuous, so the strategies he took will be what I take for the rest of my build. If it doesn’t work, I would have needed to do those things either way, so no loss was incurred.
Edit: reversed high and low pass
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