2021 Supra 3.0 premium deal - should I do it?

supRRAA

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My bank is offering 2.19%

They pulled my credit (long story but the sales guy kind of tricked me), but the finance manager just gave me a range.
He said "between low 2s to mid 2s"
Everything has been very secretive-ish.
To get them to tell me some sort of break down felt like I was pulling teeth. Is that normal practice for dealerships? I've never experienced that here in California. This dealer is in MD.
i’m also located in MD, and looking to purchase in the next few months. what’s the name of this dealership?
 

max

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yeah in SoCal there isn’t shit but msrp and mark ups :(
Same in my neck of the woods.......MSRP. Haven't seen any markups but since I have mine, no longer paying a lot of attention to prices.....:)
 

Jammon

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I was able to get these slimey salesman to sell me a supra for $53,854 and taxes and all the other add ons aren't really visible.
This is what he told me
"the car Price Selling price $ 53,854 plus $500 dealer processing fee + CA sales tax, DMV tag & title fee plus any applicable county, district and city/town fees. As you can see you are getting almost $3k discount. Let me know if it works. Thanks"

500 dealer processing fee?

also they have been secretive about breakdowns/itemizing the entire sale, so I've been kind of hesitant.

The finance guy's salesman said it would be $58,854 OTD but won't give me the breakdown.

Well, should I do it?
I got a 2021 Premium out the door for 54,000 which included tax in Dry Ridge, Ky. My local dealer wouldn't even let me test drive one and wanted 58,000 plus tax. I walked away.
 

Thill444

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I got a 2021 Premium out the door for 54,000 which included tax in Dry Ridge, Ky. My local dealer wouldn't even let me test drive one and wanted 58,000 plus tax. I walked away.
Out the door really varies by state. Some states it is almost 10%+ for taxes, etc. Others it's 2% or less. My state (CT) is even more confusing. It's 6.25% for any vehicle under $50K and 7.75% for any vehicle $50K and over. Which can really mess you up as you are not just paying the higher 7.75% rate on the amount over $50K, it's the entire amount of the car. So it sucks to pay $50K for a car vs $49,999.
 

Zupra1776

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Out the door really varies by state. Some states it is almost 10%+ for taxes, etc. Others it's 2% or less. My state (CT) is even more confusing. It's 6.25% for any vehicle under $50K and 7.75% for any vehicle $50K and over. Which can really mess you up as you are not just paying the higher 7.75% rate on the amount over $50K, it's the entire amount of the car. So it sucks to pay $50K for a car vs $49,999.
Yeah I agree OTD varies so heavily I wish people would just share their numbers before tax to make it more clear what the discounts are.
 

jonesxlv

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Nope. East Coast. But I'm not feeling it
I paid 52k OTD (Tax, title, reg, dealer fees, etc) for my 21 A91 Edition back in November. I am in NJ. Sticker was just at 58k.
 

Ground Beef

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I took delivery of a 3.0 Nitro Yellow Premium with driver assist around Memorial Day. I'm in the northern burbs of Chicago. There are still several available in the area (I believe).

MSRP - $57,105
Dealer discount - $4,956
Rebate - $750
Tax - $3,673.43
Doc Fee - $303
Title Fee - $150
Tag/Registration - $151
Electronic Filing - $25
Total out the door - $55,702.03

I would never work with a dealer that wasn't 100% transparent. I came to the table with my own financing from my credit union at 1.39%
 

Zupra1776

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I took delivery of a 3.0 Nitro Yellow Premium with driver assist around Memorial Day. I'm in the northern burbs of Chicago. There are still several available in the area (I believe).

MSRP - $57,105
Dealer discount - $4,956
Rebate - $750
Tax - $3,673.43
Doc Fee - $303
Title Fee - $150
Tag/Registration - $151
Electronic Filing - $25
Total out the door - $55,702.03

I would never work with a dealer that wasn't 100% transparent. I came to the table with my own financing from my credit union at 1.39%
Was that 60 months or 72 months?

Either way, you got an amazing deal.
 

Ground Beef

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Was that 60 months or 72 months?

Either way, you got an amazing deal.
60 months. I had to use their car buying service (Truecar) and open an additional line of credit with them in order to qualify for the 1.39%, but it was worth it.
 

westtxsupra2.0

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My bank is offering 2.19%

They pulled my credit (long story but the sales guy kind of tricked me), but the finance manager just gave me a range.
He said "between low 2s to mid 2s"
Everything has been very secretive-ish.
To get them to tell me some sort of break down felt like I was pulling teeth. Is that normal practice for dealerships? I've never experienced that here in California. This dealer is in MD.

The reason they only give you a range is because they cannot disclose the interest rate because then you will hold them accountable for it. Instead, they say a range because they will adjust it in their favor depending on how you negotiation. Examples:

Say you qualify for a 2% with the dealer, they will not disclose this because they still want to make money from you either from stealing, I mean "absorbing" your down payment or selling you the car at a higher amount. So let's say you have no downpayment and agree to the lowest retail price possible, they will not offer you 2% but instead charge you 2.5% so they can still make money from you.

How you can get them to disclose and get stuck with a low interest rate offer is asking them for the best interest rate possible or they lose your business. They will give you a low interest rate on retail for the car. Then before you sign, say you want a discount on the car or you walk away. They will be super pissed but eventually they will give you a good price on the car and they will be stuck with the low interest rate they quoted you.

I must admit, with shady dealers this is hard to pull.

But with a dealer like this, I would not pay any down payment because if you do, all they will do is change the interest rate offer (without you ever knowing because they had not disclosed it before, only a range) and basically your downpayment will go directly to their commission checks. Instead, try to get them to commit to lowest interest rate + lowest car price and then pay your downpayment into the loan once booked and then refinance with your bank.

OR

Get the lowest price on the car, tell then you don't care if the interest rate is high. Then buy the car and refinance with your bank.
 

Mcoimpact

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Get an APR from your bank or credit union for comparison purposes. And only negotiate an OTD price. That practice has served me well since 1990.
 

Ground Beef

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The reason they only give you a range is because they cannot disclose the interest rate because then you will hold them accountable for it. Instead, they say a range because they will adjust it in their favor depending on how you negotiation. Examples:

Say you qualify for a 2% with the dealer, they will not disclose this because they still want to make money from you either from stealing, I mean "absorbing" your down payment or selling you the car at a higher amount. So let's say you have no downpayment and agree to the lowest retail price possible, they will not offer you 2% but instead charge you 2.5% so they can still make money from you.

How you can get them to disclose and get stuck with a low interest rate offer is asking them for the best interest rate possible or they lose your business. They will give you a low interest rate on retail for the car. Then before you sign, say you want a discount on the car or you walk away. They will be super pissed but eventually they will give you a good price on the car and they will be stuck with the low interest rate they quoted you.

I must admit, with shady dealers this is hard to pull.

But with a dealer like this, I would not pay any down payment because if you do, all they will do is change the interest rate offer (without you ever knowing because they had not disclosed it before, only a range) and basically your downpayment will go directly to their commission checks. Instead, try to get them to commit to lowest interest rate + lowest car price and then pay your downpayment into the loan once booked and then refinance with your bank.

OR

Get the lowest price on the car, tell then you don't care if the interest rate is high. Then buy the car and refinance with your bank.
That's what I ended up having to do. It was just before Memorial Day weekend and the check would not get from my credit union for several days, so I decided to finance through Toyota at 3.99% and called my credit union that following Tuesday so they could pay off the Toyota finance loan. I think I ended up paying 3.99% for like 8 days? The finance guy was like, "if you could keep the Toyota loan open for 3 months, we'll get a bonus for that"...I told them I'd see what I could do...lol.
 

westtxsupra2.0

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That's what I ended up having to do. It was just before Memorial Day weekend and the check would not get from my credit union for several days, so I decided to finance through Toyota at 3.99% and called my credit union that following Tuesday so they could pay off the Toyota finance loan. I think I ended up paying 3.99% for like 8 days? The finance guy was like, "if you could keep the Toyota loan open for 3 months, we'll get a bonus for that"...I told them I'd see what I could do...lol.
Bravo sir! haha next time don't tell them you will re-fi and they'll drop the car price even more. That's what's they get for not being transparent.
 
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