Aftermarket sway bar with SPL LCA’s

[Supra 9]

Did you fix this ??

I am having the same issue with Cusco sways

I have not tried the end links yet which I am purchasing.

did you unbolt the end links and removed preload from the sway bar then reinstalled the endlinks at a shorter length ?

normally a shortened end link should resolve this is what I am told.

i spoke to local shops and spl in regards to this

I have to same problem after install lower control arm with SPL but after I install the end link by SPL it will stop rubbing

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[OneTimeAccount]

Update: Problem is back even after chopping off the last hole on the sway bar. It was fine for a few months.

Noticed some clunking over bumps again and when I went to look at the control arms, the yellow paint I put in the spot where it used to rub has been worn off. Not as bad but there is still contact being made.

Anyone have any ideas why it would have started to make contact again?

 

[Thraxbert]

Is your caster drifting?

 

[OneTimeAccount]

Is your caster drifting?

I’m not sure?? I haven’t done any alignments to see if it’s changed since my last alignment. Is there another way to check outside of assuming that’s the cause due to the contact being made?

 

[Msoupe]

Update: Problem is back even after chopping off the last hole on the sway bar. It was fine for a few months.

Noticed some clunking over bumps again and when I went to look at the control arms, the yellow paint I put in the spot where it used to rub has been worn off. Not as bad but there is still contact being made.

Anyone have any ideas why it would have started to make contact again?

Something must not be tight enough. First I would check the heim joint clamp on the LCA. I noticed that if that isn't really tight, the outer (black) section likes to rotate on it's own during operation. This rotation could reduce the amount of clearance between the sway bar end and LCA. Also what clocking orientation you do tighten it at can make a difference. What looks good at droop may not be ideal for ride height and bump conditions.

Another thing is your caster bushings. If they are adjusted to gain more positive caster (which is a good thing), that will unfortunately make your clearance situation even worse. Like Thraxbert mentioned, make sure those are tight and not creeping on you.

 

[Msoupe]

@OneTimeAccount

Also noticed from the image on the first post that your end links are extended. I'd suggest shortening them. At full droop it may look like lengthening the end links will make it better, but at ride height, the sway bar end actually lives just above the SPL arm. If you shorten them, the sway bar will rotate up and away from the SPL arm during normal operation.

Here is my car at ride height (swift springs). aFe sway bars and end links. End links are adjusted to the shortest length. I'm on the stiffest setting and no chopping. I have blue tape there to show any witness marks after shifting the bushings brackets all the way forward.

 

[Supra Werty]

shortening the end links is not the correct way to do this. Your sway bar is smacking the bottom of the toe arm now

The only fix is to cut off/shorten the sway bar ends. The end links need to be extended down, so that the sway bar ends are close to parallel to level ground

 

[OneTimeAccount]

shortening the end links is not the correct way to do this. Your sway bar is smacking the bottom of the toe arm now

The only fix is to cut off/shorten the sway bar ends. The end links need to be extended down, so that the sway bar ends are close to parallel to level ground

This was my understanding as well. I didn’t want to shorten it because I feared the sway bar would make contact with the toe arm.

Adjustable caster bushing helped my issue.

 

[Thraxbert]

Sway bar arms don't necessarily need to be parallel to the ground. The only need to be laterally unloaded; free play of the endlink body if the jam nuts aren't tightened and the vehicle is on the ground.

 

[Mk5Frank]

Their spl endlinks fixed my issue and caster bushings

hasn’t rubbed since

 

[Msoupe]

shortening the end links is not the correct way to do this. Your sway bar is smacking the bottom of the toe arm now

The only fix is to cut off/shorten the sway bar ends. The end links need to be extended down, so that the sway bar ends are close to parallel to level ground

Well you are wrong about the sway bar "smacking" the bottom of the tie rods. Mine do not come close. The clearance between the tie rods and the sway bar gets better in bump travel as well. The only case it gets close (true for stock end links as well) is when the suspension is at full droop and steering is at full lock. This situation is rarely realize when driving.

You are also wrong about the sway bar "ends" needing to be parallel to the ground. What matters is the imaginary line between the bushing centerline and the attachment point of the end link. Theoretically you would like this line to be close to parallel to the ground to give the most efficient leverage. Even after shortening my end links this line is pretty level.

 

[MK52NV]

I also had the same issues with the spl lower control arms my machanic shaved it down and now no rubbing. Seem like the spl lca is not a perfect fit and they need to fix this issue.

 

[Msoupe]

Sway bar arms don't necessarily need to be parallel to the ground. The only need to be laterally unloaded; free play of the endlink body if the jam nuts aren't tightened and the vehicle is on the ground.

Agreed. When I corner balance a vehicle I like to have the customer or similar weight in the driver seat. With the sway bars disconnected, I adjust all of the corner heights for even cross weights and reattach the end links, adjusted length to have zero preload.

 

[OneTimeAccount]

Well you are wrong about the sway bar "smacking" the bottom of the tie rods. Mine do not come close. The clearance between the tie rods and the sway bar gets better in bump travel as well. The only case it gets close (true for stock end links as well) is when the suspension is at full droop and steering is at full lock. This situation is rarely realize when driving.

You are also wrong about the sway bar "ends" needing to be parallel to the ground. What matters is the imaginary line between the bushing centerline and the attachment point of the end link. Theoretically you would like this line to be close to parallel to the ground to give the most efficient leverage. Even after shortening my end links this line is pretty level.

What end links do you have and do you know what length yours are? I might give shortening mine a try just to see if I can even make them short enough.

 

[Msoupe]

What end links do you have and do you know what length yours are? I might give shortening mine a try just to see if I can even make them short enough.

I have the aFe end links and they are just under 15" center to center when adjusted to the shortest length.

How do the caster bushings feel? Do you happen to know what your caster was set to after the install? I remember you were battling uneven caster in stock form, correct?

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