Audio upgrade options

[dazza]

Just a few more points added to my previous post.

I am inexperienced at this. If I can do this everyone can. To tap into the speaker outputs is so easy. Its one connector that carries all the speaker leads. I simply used a crimp tool with a single end connector (not sure what to call it) that plugs into each socket of the OEM speaker multi connector, as I was only tapping into the front speakers. I used a new speaker cable run for the subwoofers.

i did not have to splice the wire or cut anything.

The mobridge unit carries the 12V signal that needs to be used to power on amplifier and it works perfectly. The software tells the mobridge when to do this.

GND is present in that area and positive lead (see my picture) runs from the battery and does not interfere with the base board or panels due to its thickness.

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[dazza]

I purchased these

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154190517160

Found the perfect size that fits the OEM factory Speaker connectors simply plug them directly into each single socket in the multiconnector.

I used a 9V battery to determine the polarity and which wire goes to which speaker.

They fit nice and snug and take a second to fit with the crimp tool.

 

[METAL]

I purchased these

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154190517160

Found the perfect size that fits the OEM factory Speaker connectors simply plug them directly into each single socket in the multiconnector.

I used a 9V battery to determine the polarity and which wire goes to which speaker.

They fit nice and snug and take a second to fit with the crimp tool.

I wonder if a Technic PNP harness could solve this too?

 

[dazza]

I wonder if a Technic PNP harness could solve this too?

I thought that too but their website doesn't have enough information or pictures to qualify anything.

 

[mObridge]

Thanks @mObridge.

Are these specs real (rms)?

• 6x 175W Channels @ 4ohms
• 2x 300W Channels @ 4ohms
• 1x 500W Subwoofer Channel @ 4ohms (or 1000W @ 2 Ohms)
• 1x 4V RMS pre-out

Will you provide the necessary harness to keep it plug and play?

What would this cost?

Yes the specs are real. The amps are left over surplus from an OEM project. Its a lot of power and was crazy over specced for the OEM.

We have a full plug and play harness for this and the BMW


These have been fitted to a number of BMW's already. Here is a review https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...-installation-and-review.432510/#post-5914285

Its your easiest, fastest, most powerful and cheapest way to get the upgrade done.

cheers,

mObridge

 

[METAL]

@mObridge I did see the review and the reviewer mentioned different specs. I also called sales for this and he didn't mention that price and also mentioned these are most likely peak power numbers being advertised. The link to Technic never really works, you'll need to add details on how to get to the product you are trying to link.

Do you know if any channels can be bridged?

 

[H2O_Doc]

For those wondering about Technic PNP, here is what they told me (and their sub harness worked):

“Please enter 3-Series (F3x/F8x) -> Top HiFi(688) at the main page of www.TechnicPnP.com for the complete selection of products to integrate aftermarket amps and speakers to your particular OEM sound system. No other OEM system integration product on any other page works in your car.”

 

[METAL]

So got some answers back from mObridge:

The MOST25 8.1.1 amp has 6 channels @ 100W RMS @ 4ohms can be bridged. The 2x 200W RMS @ 4ohms can also be bridged but internally they are bridged already but can be doubled again. The 300W RMS @ 4ohms is already fully bridged.

This amp will be the perfect addition to my setup saving money on purchasing MOST25 adapter.

Audison APBMW K4E (3-way passive fronts): running ch1 & ch2 @100w rms 4-ohms
Audison APBMW K4M (3-way passive rears): running ch3 & ch4 @100w rms 4-ohms
Audison AP 8 (3-way active ilo oem subs): running the sub channels @200w rms 4-ohms
JL Audio CP208LG-W3v3: running of the dedicated sub channel @600w rms 2ohms

 

[dazza]

So got some answers back from mObridge:

The MOST25 8.1.1 amp has 6 channels @ 100W RMS @ 4ohms can be bridged. The 2x 200W RMS @ 4ohms can also be bridged but internally they are bridged already but can be doubled again. The 300W RMS @ 4ohms is already fully bridged.

This amp will be the perfect addition to my setup saving money on purchasing MOST25 adapter.

Audison APBMW K4M (3-way passive fronts): running ch1 & ch2 @100w rms 4-ohms
Audison APBMW K4E (3-way passive rears): running ch3 & ch4 @100w rms 4-ohms
Audison AP 8 (3-way active ilo oem subs): running the sub channels @200w rms 4-ohms
JL Audio CP208LG-W3v3: running of the dedicated sub channel @600w rms 2ohms

Mobridge are good. I wished I went this way initially, with their amp. I am still thinking of doing it. But I have the mobridge preamp and it really works well. In the meantime I have been trying to experiment with additional wires to the doors for a fully active setup but I am struggling to do so and gave up.

So I considered the active fronts and the APBMW have nice small crossovers. The APBMWK4M does not fit in the doors I tried them the correct fitment I believe is the K4E's. the holes should line up like OEM. I have a set on order to try. So please check this before you purchase.

My single 10inch Audison sounds amazing BTW very low and deep yet controlled bass in a sealed cabinet.

 

[METAL]

Mobridge are good. I wished I went this way initially, with their amp. I am still thinking of doing it. But I have the mobridge preamp and it really works well. In the meantime I have been trying to experiment with additional wires to the doors for a fully active setup but I am struggling to do so and gave up.

So I considered the active fronts and the APBMW have nice small crossovers. The APBMWK4M does not fit in the doors I tried them the correct fitment I believe is the K4E's. the holes should line up like OEM. I have a set on order to try. So please check this before you purchase.

My single 10inch Audison sounds amazing BTW very low and deep yet controlled bass in a sealed cabinet.

I believe the K4E is the larger basket that is used for the rears. The K4M is the smaller basket for the doors.

 

[dazza]

I believe the K4E is the larger basket that is used for the rears. The K4M is the smaller basket for the doors.

I don't know about tears I think they are the same size but the "M" didn't fit

 

[dazza]

I believe the K4E is the larger basket that is used for the rears. The K4M is the smaller basket for the doors.

Here is a picture I took of my fronts OEM compared to the "M's"

The holes don't line up

The rears I am certain are the same but I am not sure

I have ordered the "E's" not sure when they will get to me.

 

[METAL]

Thats interesting.

If you look at the bavsound speakers even the image shows different speakers front and rear.

https://www.bavsound.com/products/b...MItP71lOq28AIVCyCtBh1eJw5GEAQYASABEgJ7o_D_BwE

Edit: I just watched the Bavsound GR Supra install video closely. The speakers are different front and rear.

It looks like the K4M's (smaller basket) you have are correct, they just fit in the rears and the K4E's (large basket) that you ordered should work. I had it backwards myself.

 

[dazza]

Thats interesting.

If you look at the bavsound speakers even the image shows different speakers front and rear.

https://www.bavsound.com/products/b...MItP71lOq28AIVCyCtBh1eJw5GEAQYASABEgJ7o_D_BwE

Edit: I just watched the Bavsound GR Supra install video closely. The speakers are different front and rear.

It looks like the K4M's (smaller basket) you have are correct, they just fit in the rears and the K4E's (large basket) that you ordered should work. I had it backwards myself.

I hope the ones I ordered are correct??

The pictures that I took shows the two holes line up perfectly but the top hole is off. The picture was with the OEM door speakers. I have not at this stage bothered with the rears. Rears are just for fill. You could get away with keeping them stock and it's a huge cost to replace those with little gain. iMO. They hardly work now with the JBL system. I will connect them if I pull the trigger on the mobridge amplifier..who knows I may get excited and replace them. Not sure about centre speaker yet either. They all supposed to match in theory.

I just hope the "E's" are correct because the "M's" don't fit.

 

[jorligan]

I sent a query to Mobridge USA hoping to order the amplifier. No reply. Are they really selling for $1000 as posted?

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