Audio upgrade options

Thill444

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I've never found the signal from a LOC to be satisfactory with the factory EQ and bass roll off.
Yeah I’m going into this with low expectations. Something tells me I will be ripping out the factory amp aNd replacing with a decent DSP/Amp combo. Mobridge really looks solid. Since I have the amp, LOC, etc I figure I will give it s shot. I’m not a bass head but just want something a little more. It baffles me that factory amps and EQ in most cars is so poorly implemented.
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Wettnoodle

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So I didn't see anything specific to my question and I'm sorry if I missed it. However, I'm in the process of trying to install an extra 12 inch sub, just to add some bass. Having a problem figuring out where a good place to run the remote wire so that it turns on and off with the vehicle. I am no expert, just know enough to get in trouble. My buddy and I have installed equipment in the past, however this car seems a bit more sophisticated than what we're used to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Piotr

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Next up is the remote wire. I originally purchased The LC2i Pro because it has a feature where when it senses audio, it creates a remote output wire to turn on your amp(s). Unfortunately, in this car it didn't work exactly as planned. The LOC would randomly power up without the car being on. I spoke with an audio control rep and they said the car most likely has mics in it, pick up sounds, and powers up something in the CAN network which trips the LOC on. (These are his words, not mine. I do not know if this is true). I didn't like the idea of potentially draining the battery so I ended up finding a switched wire behind the fuse box that is located on the passenger side of the trunk area.

fuse box.jpg

I used this video to help me remove the fuse box and find the wire I needed which ended up being a green/blue wire for the input wire into my relay:



Rob O.
Here is the solution to your problem Wettnoodle. It's from a topic created by static63.

If you dont want to cut any wires, like me, i used a fuse splitter. Im no expert too so please take caution :)
fuse.PNG
 

Wettnoodle

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Here is the solution to your problem Wettnoodle. It's from a topic created by static63.

If you dont want to cut any wires, like me, i used a fuse splitter. Im no expert too so please take caution :)
fuse.PNG
Thanks @Piotr I literally just happened across one of these today which seems to be the perfect solution to my problem.
 

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BA9092

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ntoxicated88

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When tapping into the oem sub speaker wires to connect to the lc2i pro, do I need to unplug the oem subs or leave them connected it from there on?
 

METAL

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When tapping into the oem sub speaker wires to connect to the lc2i pro, do I need to unplug the oem subs or leave them connected it from there on?
Yes keep them plugged in, the oem subs are set up as a 3-way system to help the front speakers with bass.
 

METAL

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In addition the sub, it comes with a new more powerful amp that's powers the entire audio system. Great system!
I agree its a great system that is simple and improves sound marginally. Same money can be spent elsewhere for better results but will require more a high knowledge of tuning.
 

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I’m going to do some sound deadening and vibration improvement to the doors and said what the hell while I am there I will swap out the stock speakers with these, they should be drop in reaplacements and the BMW guys say they are a big improvement over stock:

There are Eton B100W component speakers.

Will report back once it’s done. Might be awhile as I have springs and a sway bar to install first :)
 
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METAL

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I’m going to do some sound deadening and vibration improvement to the doors and said what the hell while I am there I will swap out the stock speakers with these, they should be drop in reaplacements and the BMW guys say they are a big improvement over stock:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/Eton_Auto_Sound/eton-bmw-upgrade-b100t-pair/

Will report back once it’s done. Might be awhile as I have springs and a sway bar to install first :)
I hear good things about ETON on the BMW forums.
 

Thill444

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I hear good things about ETON on the BMW forums.
Yes me too, it took some research and based on our amp it looks like I need the B100W model component speakers. I also decided to get the matching Eton center channel as a number of the BMW guys said it sounded much better than stock and preferred it to removing the center completely. I will give it a shot. For the new mids, tweeter, and center I am like $360 all in. Seems very fairly priced considering they are drop in ready and you can use all the factory connectors.
 

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After doing the woofer "stuffing\port" mod, I was still itching for low end bass with a punch. This time around I wanted something compact and inexpensive. You will need the following:
  1. Kicker PT250 (Powered Sub)
  2. A Line Output Converter that accepts 40v in the Speaker Level Input (these will be powered units such as AudioControl LC2i, JL Audio LoC-202, Wāvtech linkDQ, or similar)[more on this in the Install Notes]
  3. Kicker 46KISL (or similar). The RCA part will connect to the line output converter and the speaker part to the Kicker PT250 amp)
  4. T-Taps (optional) to tap into the factory speaker cable
  5. Fuse Tap with 1amp fuse for the remote wire
  6. Fuse Holder with 1amp fuse (this is to power the Line Output Converter)
  7. A couple of feet of 18 or 16 gauge speaker cables this will be used to run a power cable (you'll attach the Fuse holder to this) and ground cable for the Line Output Converter. You will also need some to grab signal from the factory speakers to the line output converter)
Install Notes:
  • Power both the Amp and Line Output Converter directly to Battery Positive terminal [both items must be fused. The amp already has a fused power cable. For the Line Outout Converter, please look at the owner's manual for Fuse amperage suggestion. Per my research they are almost always just 1-amp]
  • Ground both items [for the Kicker amp, there is a bolt that has two existing factory brown ground wires to the body (it's the center bolt towards the front of the trunk)]. You can also ground Line Output Converter there if installed close by.
  • Remote Wire both the Amp and Line Output Converter [if available] into Fuse F264 (turns off after 5\6 mins of shutting the car off and turns on immediately when you unlock car) [On the Kicker amp, be sure the Auto-Turn-On switch on the Kicker amp is set to +12v and NOT DC-- On the Line Output Converter, if remote input is available (not to be confused with remote output), be sure to change the jumpers or switch so that it turns on via Remote wire and not by other methods such as Signal or DC]
  • IMPORTANT: While the Kicker built in amp. connects via Speaker Level input, it can only accept a max of 10v (in fact most aftermarket amps usually only accept between 4v to 10v). Using a MultiMeter and playing 40-60Hz tones at 75% volume, the factory woofers were getting over 20v of power from Toyota's JBL factory amp. This is the reason why you must use a Line Output Converter that accepts 40v of power otherwise you could damage the aftermarket amplifier.
  • Tap into both rear woofer wires running behind the driver side rear panels (they'll be the thicker wires of the bunch)
    • Driver Side Woofer:
      • Purple/Yellow wire = Positive
      • Black/Green wire = Negative
    • Passenger Side Woofer:
      • White/Black wire = Positive
      • Blue/Black wire = Negative
  • Remove the OEM Cargo "Supra" Mat as it will not be used anymore since I screwed in the tie down strap to the trunk carpeted lid.
Currently playing with the subs placement to figure out which I like better:
  • Facing up = tighter bass response (I like it for most music)
  • Facing the rear = achieves lower frequencies (I like it for certain music)
  • Facing the front = too boomy & too much treble (I did not like this position)


Bottom Line, while it won't shake your mirrors, this is an option for those that just want a little more punch and fill in the lower frequencies (i'd say as low as 40hz) and something compact that won't take up too much room.

Other budget option would be the JBL ProBass 8 (formally known as the JBL Stage 800BA) or Sound Ordnance B-10AS.

If you want something that hits a little harder and louder but still want compact with same install methods then look into the JL Audio MicroSub Plus or JL Audio Power Wedge Plus systems.




EDIT [My Amp and Infotainment system level]:
On the Line Output Converter:
  • Set the Bass and 100Hz on the stereo at the middle (0). Set the gain on the Sub amp to Minimum, and set the Line Output Converter to minimum to start
  • Play some music with bass (youtube bass test music) and increase the stereo amp to 75%
  • Increase the Gain on the Line Output converter until you hear distortion (most of these devices will have a light indicator of when to stop the gain)

If you have an AudioControl device with the AccuBASS feature, then disable it as it is not applicable. The reason being, per my testing; i played a 40-50-60-70-80hz test tone, as I increased the volume on the factory JBL Stereo, so did the bass on the aftermarket subwoofer. At no point did the bass cut off\reduced.

I originally had AudioControl LC2i (which is a good item), however I think I must have had a defective unit as the bass was not consistent [sometimes i got more punch other times i did not in the same song]. I double checked all the wiring and terminals. I made sure AccuBASS was completely off. I ended up exchanging it for the Wāvtech linkDQ which resolved my issues.


On the Kicker Amp:
  • X-Over Freq. (Hz) set to 100Hz [sixth line]
  • Bass Boost set to 0 (Zero) [first line]
  • Set Gain between Minimum to 1/4 of the way up [second line]
On the Infotainment system:
  • In equalizer set the 100Hz to the first line (1/4 of the way from the top)
  • The other frequencies it won't matter as they don't affect the subwoofer, you can adjust those to whatever pleases your ears.
Doing the above allows you to listen at high volumes and max bass level from the infotainment system without overpowering the Kicker amp. and/or distorting the Kicker subwoofer. If you chose not to wire up the subwoofer volume knob, you can just as easily adjust the Bass output from the infotainment system's "Base Level".

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