If this is the procedure to bleed the high temp side then what is the procedure to bleed the low temp side? Thanks.Yes,
open bleeder on overflow
fill overflow to top
close bleeder and replace overflow cap
close hood, make sure car is on ground (not on lift or jacks), apply parking brake
put car in diag mode (ht start button 3 times)
turn on low beam lights, and hazard lights
put heater control on max hot, blower on lowest
hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds (dont step on brake)
release gas pedal and start engine
instrument cluster displays message about service function starting
engine will rev up on its own for 11 minutes then return to idle
let engine cool all the way back off and check overflow tank
Itās been a while, but Iā like 95% sure itās the exact same except the last step. Instead of putting foot on brake and hitting start button. Just hit start button twice. So ignition on/engine off.If this is the procedure to bleed the high temp side then what is the procedure to bleed the low temp side? Thanks.
Thanks for the quick reply. Iāll give it a goItās been a while, but Iā like 95% sure itās the exact same except the last step. Instead of putting foot on brake and hitting start button. Just hit start button twice. So ignition on/engine off.
the low temp side is pretty easy though. .Last few times I just filled it with engine running until I could see coolant swirling in the tank. Then check led a few times after.
Okay so these procedures worked but how do I know if I should repeat the procedure to try and flush out more air? The car did tell me the process was complete though after I ran it and it told me I needed to add more coolant a couple of times so I did that and ran the process again until it didnāt tell me I was low anymore. However, I am hearing weird sounds coming from the engine after shutting it off, like either air bubbles or boiling coolant or something. Any ideas?Itās been a while, but Iā like 95% sure itās the exact same except the last step. Instead of putting foot on brake and hitting start button. Just hit start button twice. So ignition on/engine off.
the low temp side is pretty easy though. .Last few times I just filled it with engine running until I could see coolant swirling in the tank. Then check led a few times after.
As long as there are no overheating issues and the coolant level in the header tank remains stable for a given cold engine temperature then you can be pretty confident the system is correctly bled. I have in the past had to monitor coolant levels on engines carefully and it's important to get a few things as a baseline. Park the car in the exact same position on level as possible ground and check the coolant level at a pre determined cold engine temp. So I let the car cool for around 4 hours and then check the block temp with an infrared thermometer gun and look at the coolant level and record it. If you leave it overnight to check there can be an appreciable difference in the coolant header tank level between a zero deg C and a 15 deg C overnight temp we can get here. If the level remains consistent and there is no appreciable level drop then it's generally good. If there is air in the system then the coolant level will keep dropping until it's purged the air and then remain steady. If the level doesn't stabilise then you have other issues or the system is grossly air contaminated. Don't try coolant replacement and refill without using a vacuum system filler these days. Systems are too complex to use the old gravity fill method now.Okay so these procedures worked but how do I know if I should repeat the procedure to try and flush out more air? The car did tell me the process was complete though after I ran it and it told me I needed to add more coolant a couple of times so I did that and ran the process again until it didnāt tell me I was low anymore. However, I am hearing weird sounds coming from the engine after shutting it off, like either air bubbles or boiling coolant or something. Any ideas?