How’s the damage?

[PNWDMM]

I was in stop and go traffic, I was stopped, he was going. No airbags and I drove it home so nothing really mechanical that I can tell.
Also, since my car will now have an accident reported, do I get any compensation due to the now lowered value of my car? How does that work?
Anyone ever seen a plate stuck in a car before?

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[Rensuhlo]

OOf. Mine goes in for repairs for similar (less) damage. So far the initial estimate is $5000. Going to discuss diminished value after the repairs.

 

[PNWDMM]

OOf. Mine goes in for repairs for similar (less) damage. So far the initial estimate is $5000. Going to discuss diminished value after the repairs.

Hopefully it’s not too much.. is that a legal thing? Does insurance even discuss that, or is that handled in a small claims court or something like that?

 

[BraveDemon]

Man. I really hope I’m wrong but it might be considered totaled. Let us know what your carrier ends up saying.

New bumper, hatch, driver tail light, rear diffuser/valance… and it could just the camera angle but the area above your B/C pillar looks a little raised where it meets the roof.

 

[M3P-A90]

Man. I really hope I’m wrong but it might be considered totaled. Let us know what your carrier ends up saying.

New bumper, hatch, driver tail light, rear diffuser/valance… and it could just the camera angle but the area above your B/C pillar looks a little raised where it meets the roof.

Sadly I second the above, good catch on upper area on the drivers side above the rear glass, maybe it’s just sun or picture angle, don’t forget about the trunk pan area, check to see if there’s more damage than just plastic pieces… best case $10k if no structural damage, plus the parts availability and shops as well..

 

[PNWDMM]

Man. I really hope I’m wrong but it might be considered totaled. Let us know what your carrier ends up saying.

New bumper, hatch, driver tail light, rear diffuser/valance… and it could just the camera angle but the area above your B/C pillar looks a little raised where it meets the roof.

Definitely all the things you mentioned. The angle does show it a little more raised than it actually is, but I just went out and the drivers side is raised by maybe 1/8th inch more than the passenger side. Adjuster coming out tomorrow…..

Just got the car in March, and just finished all the mods I had planned last week. Is this when I get a 718..?

 

[romanLegion9574]

Yeah, probably looking in the $10-15k range for repairs, and several months with how backed up shops are here.

AVOID COLLISION MASTERS IN REDMOND LIKE THE PLAGUE -- I had a miserable time with them getting my car fixed.

You can file a diminished value claim against whoever crashed into you (I'm assuming they have insurance).

 

[PNWDMM]

Yeah, probably looking in the $10-15k range for repairs, and several months with how backed up shops are here.

AVOID COLLISION MASTERS IN REDMOND LIKE THE PLAGUE -- I had a miserable time with them getting my car fixed.

You can file a diminished value claim against whoever crashed into you (I'm assuming they have insurance).

Honestly I’m crossing my fingers for this. Spent two months waiting for it to be shipped from out of state, it’s the exact car that I want (maybe an MT though..), but fixing it and a check for the value difference would put me straight. I appreciate advice, that’s where his insurance suggested I go. I’ve had a great experience with Big E Auto Rebuild in Burien.

 

[ky.supra]

Glad you're good OP. I had a similar accident last year where my lane went to a complete stop and I got rear-ended by a driver not paying attention/on their phone, I got hit at 30mph-40mph. Nothing else I could do but hold my brake pedal to the floor when I saw the driver not stopping in my rearview mirror. If I hadn't slam my brake pedal to the floor and held it I would've hit the jeep in front of me. The repair Amount was $6,482.50 and I got my car back a little over a month. I had frame damage from the rear crash bar so that had to get pulled out but it wasn't bad—the heatshields that sit above the exhaust muffler I had to source myself from a totaled supra since Toyota doesn't supply the heatshield or have any part numbers related to the heatshield. Your damages look worse compare to mine so I think your repair estimate would be above $10k

 

[NitroYellowMKV]

Oof yikes, this could actually be totaled, I think everyone is a little low on estimates, the paint alone due to blending is going to be pricey, I would say on the low end 10-12k, with the high end being 20k+, a good Diminished value attorney should also be able to get at least 8-10k in dv for an accident like this. but ya seeing how the quarter pannel buckled and shifted, I would prob air on the side of caution and take as many mods off, and have it totaled and either get yourself into a new supra, or whatever it is you want.

 

[Bigboss]

Glad you're good OP. I had a similar accident last year where my lane went to a complete stop and I got rear-ended by a driver not paying attention/on their phone, I got hit at 30mph-40mph. Nothing else I could do but hold my brake pedal to the floor when I saw the driver not stopping in my rearview mirror. If I hadn't slam my brake pedal to the floor and held it I would've hit the jeep in front of me. The repair Amount was $6,482.50 and I got my car back a little over a month. I had frame damage from the rear crash bar so that had to get pulled out but it wasn't bad—the heatshields that sit above the exhaust muffler I had to source myself from a totaled supra since Toyota doesn't supply the heatshield or have any part numbers related to the heatshield. Your damages look worse compare to mine so I think your repair estimate would be above $10k

Of course its a hyundai/kia the worst mass produced shitboxes with the most clueless npc drivers on the road behind the wheel of these abominations

 

[Lonestar_Nomad]

Typically we began the possible total evaluation at around 60-70% of the vehicles value. From what little I can see from these pictures I don’t believe it’s anywhere near that. Outstanding factors like damaged high strength steel sub structure, cracked primary frame rails etc could also tip the scale on a much lower percentage, but unlikely. The quarters do not seem pushed outward or pulled into the centerline which is a good sign. I can’t speculate much more beyond that without better pictures of the quarters and roof rails. Certainly a crash bar, absorber, decklid/hinges and likely rear panel replacement. If the quarters are buckled, the vehicle will be pre pulled on a frame machine to bring panels back into spec before the rear section behind the bumper is cut out. Could be looking at rear frame extensions and possibly a repair/replacement of the trunk floor. Won’t know until tear down. All n all it’s not too bad.

if you’d like me to look ever any estimates you receive I’d be more than happy to. Also, as someone who’s done this for a long time, a little bondo on the quarters is better than some shoddy sectioning job. Pretty sure bmw does not authorize quarter panel being sectioned anyway, and instead requires the panel to be replaced in its entirety. Meaning full door surrounds and rockers.

If they are truly buckled hard and replacement is required, I’d be raising absolute hell. Not that it can’t be done, but simply because it’s a new car and you have every right to fight it. They will probably drop you from coverage immediately afterwards but you can always find a new company.

also just a note about picking a shop. The insurance will try to tell you “we only warranty repairs made at Shop x y and z.
That tactic is called steering, and it’s illegal in Texas but they never get more than a slap on the wrist for it. You have the right to pick any shop of your choosing. The insurance will want you to take it to one of their DRP shops (direct repair program) because they have special rates pre negotiated, and a strict list of what they will and won’t pay for. Stand your ground and ask around before settling on a shop.

Best of luck, and glad everyone is okay.

 

[romanLegion9574]

Honestly I’m crossing my fingers for this. Spent two months waiting for it to be shipped from out of state, it’s the exact car that I want (maybe an MT though..), but fixing it and a check for the value difference would put me straight. I appreciate advice, that’s where his insurance suggested I go. I’ve had a great experience with Big E Auto Rebuild in Burien.

Due to how far in advance basically every body shop is scheduling appointments, you may be looking at 9 months to a year, depending on who you call.

Check out: Seattle Partners — Avants for some good alternatives.

 

[PNWDMM]

Typically we began the possible total evaluation at around 60-70% of the vehicles value. From what little I can see from these pictures I don’t believe it’s anywhere near that. Outstanding factors like damaged high strength steel sub structure, cracked primary frame rails etc could also tip the scale on a much lower percentage, but unlikely. The quarters do not seem pushed outward or pulled into the centerline which is a good sign. I can’t speculate much more beyond that without better pictures of the quarters and roof rails. Certainly a crash bar, absorber, decklid/hinges and likely rear panel replacement. If the quarters are buckled, the vehicle will be pre pulled on a frame machine to bring panels back into spec before the rear section behind the bumper is cut out. Could be looking at rear frame extensions and possibly a repair/replacement of the trunk floor. Won’t know until tear down. All n all it’s not too bad.

if you’d like me to look ever any estimates you receive I’d be more than happy to. Also, as someone who’s done this for a long time, a little bondo on the quarters is better than some shoddy sectioning job. Pretty sure bmw does not authorize quarter panel being sectioned anyway, and instead requires the panel to be replaced in its entirety. Meaning full door surrounds and rockers.

If they are truly buckled hard and replacement is required, I’d be raising absolute hell. Not that it can’t be done, but simply because it’s a new car and you have every right to fight it. They will probably drop you from coverage immediately afterwards but you can always find a new company.

also just a note about picking a shop. The insurance will try to tell you “we only warranty repairs made at Shop x y and z.
That tactic is called steering, and it’s illegal in Texas but they never get more than a slap on the wrist for it. You have the right to pick any shop of your choosing. The insurance will want you to take it to one of their DRP shops (direct repair program) because they have special rates pre negotiated, and a strict list of what they will and won’t pay for. Stand your ground and ask around before settling on a shop.

Best of luck, and glad everyone is okay.

Absolutely staggered by this comment, can’t thank you enough for the depth, super helpful all around.

I have a call with his insurance adjuster today (didn’t go through mine to avoid deductible, let me know if that’s the wrong route), and I have a call with the repair shop on Friday that I have used before and did great work, who also happened to be on their list they sent by coincidence.

I’ve taken a few more pictures along with closer ups of that pillar others were concerned about. It is ever so slightly raised on the drivers side it seems. I should add that where the rear window meets the roof line right at those pillars, there is damage above the window where it looks like it pushed the window towards the front of the car.

 

[Lonestar_Nomad]

I’m still hesitant to say too much without being able to physically get my hands on the sheet metal and inspect, but your left quarter is the only one I would worry about. Door gap looks tight but could just be the angle. The gap between window and roof rails looks off.

it’s remarkable hard to see some of this stuff without being able to skylight the panels properly so I don’t want to say much more and set your expectations wrong.
Ive circled the areas a buckle is most likely to occurred, so you can check those yourself. Arrows are gaps that look off.

It may all seem scary, but I’ve done and seen some incredible work come out of shops. Left quarter does appear pushed out slightly, but a good percentage, or all of it, will move back into place once the pressure from the crash bar being inside of its own ass is relieved.

Once that bumper is off and the truck trim is pulled out, you’ll know everything there is to know. You could scoot under the back of the car and see how the floor etc looks if you’re bored. Don’t open the hatch cause there is a coin flip on if it will close again.

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