Mid-Ohio Supra Track Day

[Nocturnal LE]

Yes mine is lowered .8” front and rear via Eibach Euro Z4 Springs.

Along with Burger Tuning wheel spacers (10mm front & 13mm rear).

Do you all see any issues with my alignment specs? (all seems to be in the preferred green status now).

I think it looks fine. I’m doubting myself now... is this toe out on the front and toe in on the rear? Even though they’re both positive #s... ?

also - maybe yours will feel a bit darty with the higher toe out? Maybe not since still in the normal range.

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[nibble]

I think it looks fine. I’m doubting myself now... is this toe out on the front and toe in on the rear? Even though they’re both positive #s... ?

also - maybe yours will feel a bit darty with the higher toe out? Maybe not since still in the normal range.

positive # typically is "toe-in". both your wheels are toe-in, looks like. typically, toe-out or straight toe creates unstable steering in straight line. you need very slight toe-in for stability.

-edit-

I might be wrong on your rear.. Tech manual calls for "toe-in" for rear as well so I thought it should be toe-in.

 

[Andrew4Supra]

positive # typically is "toe-in". both your wheels are toe-in, looks like. typically, toe-out or straight toe creates unstable steering in straight line. you need very slight toe-in for stability.

~ This is what was recommend to me from a good friend who knows his stuff...

“Bring the rear toe as close to 0 as possible, if not a touch toe’d in. BMW’s squat the rear a ton under acceleration and they go to massive toe out. Front toe looks ok. Since it’s on the street only, I’d take a little camber out all the way around”.

 

[Dannyvandelft]

You want toe in at the rear, so you don't get too much oversteer.
I prefer toe out at the front, because you get quicker turn in. The side effect is the car feels "darty" and wants to follow uneven road surfaces like ruts left by trucks.

 

[nibble]

Because I don't know the alignment machine you/they used, it's hard to tell but looks like it's "toe-in". it should be slight toe-in and ask alignment shop you used if those numbers represent toe-in.

 

[Andrew4Supra]

Because I don't know the alignment machine you/they used, it's hard to tell but looks like it's "toe-in". it should be slight toe-in and ask alignment shop you used if those numbers represent toe-in.

~ Looks like it was performed on a Hunter Hawk Eye Elite Alignment Machine.

 

[nibble]

Sorry I do not know these machines. What I know is what it should be. best way is asking shop what those numbers represent.

 

[Nocturnal LE]

~ This is what was recommend to me from a good friend who knows his stuff...

“Bring the rear toe as close to 0 as possible, if not a touch toe’d in. BMW’s squat the rear a ton under acceleration and they go to massive toe out. Front toe looks ok. Since it’s on the street only, I’d take a little camber out all the way around”.

We’re toed in similarly on the rear. But I’m curious how different from each other our steering would feel with you having .18 deg toe in and me having .04 degrees toe in at the front. I don’t know enough about alignments to know if this would be considered a significant difference. Thoughts?

 

[Dannyvandelft]

We’re toed in similarly on the rear. But I’m curious how different from each other our steering would feel with you having .18 deg toe in and me having .04 degrees toe in at the front. I don’t know enough about alignments to know if this would be considered a significant difference. Thoughts?

The more toe in you have, the more stable the car will be. With toe in, the wheels want to drive towards each other, creating stability. Side effect is you lose steering quickness. Which is why I like a little toe out up front.
The more toe you have, in or out, the greater the effect is, and additionally, the higher your tire wear will be, because with more toe, your tires will be scrubbing more.

 

[Nocturnal LE]

The more toe in you have, the more stable the car will be. With toe in, the wheels want to drive towards each other, creating stability. Side effect is you lose steering quickness. Which is why I like a little toe out up front.
The more toe you have, in or out, the greater the effect is, and additionally, the higher your tire wear will be, because with more toe, your tires will be scrubbing more.

I understand that, but my question is what values would actually be considered significant where someone would be able to feel that difference. For example, would the difference between .04 and .18 be pretty noticeable? Or is that negligible, and it would need to be a bigger difference.

 

[Dannyvandelft]

I understand that, but my question is what values would actually be considered significant where someone would be able to feel that difference. For example, would the difference between .04 and .18 be pretty noticeable? Or is that negligible, and it would need to be a bigger difference.

That I don't know. I think that depends on each individual person and their skill level.

 

[nibble]

best way is, do OEM setting, reference it and let your butt tell you if that felt good. if not, then change setting.

 

[Nocturnal LE]

So I’m seeing we can’t completely turn off the front collision warning with brake intervention. I could this being an issue. Thoughts?

 

[nibble]

nope. just give enough room between you and car in front. it goes off when it detects car in front of you is slowing down much faster than you are. it rarely goes off for me but I've seen it occuring to DE1 students more when they are not using their brake properly.

 

[Nocturnal LE]

nope. just give enough room between you and car in front. it goes off when it detects car in front of you is slowing down much faster than you are. it rarely goes off for me but I've seen it occuring to DE1 students more when they are not using their brake properly.

Ok cool. I see I can press and hold the safety button and it turns everything off. I’ll be curious to see what stays on even though it says all off

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