Ohlins Road & Track

[razorlab]

I had the ride height the way I wanted it (lowered 1/4” more than what Ohlins settings calls for) but the springs are not supported at full extension. On big bumps they were coming out of their seats. Want to add helper springs so they stay in their seats.

with the ohlins, you change ride height by the bottom threaded section of the shock body (the part that goes into the knuckle). The top threaded part with the spring is for preload only.

You are reducing your shock travel if you use the top for both.

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[MR_X]

I’m aware of how to set ride height. In my case the front sit higher than the rears by 1/4” using Ohlins specs. The rear wheel gap is perfect but the front has a noticeable gap (2 fingers vs the rear 1 finger) and there is a noticeable reverse rake look if you look long enough. My shocks are seated correctly and to the lowest settings. The rear springs seats are set to Ohlins specs.

 

[razorlab]

I’m aware of how to set ride height. In my case the front sit higher than the rears by 1/4” using Ohlins specs. The rear wheel gap is perfect but the front has a noticeable gap (2 fingers vs the rear 1 finger) and there is a noticeable reverse rake look if you look long enough. My shocks are seated correctly and to the lowest settings. The rear springs seats are set to Ohlins specs.

So you are saying you can't change the ride height any lower in the front by using the bottom threaded section?

I imagine any helper springs will fit since the OD of the shock body is most likely the same as the the knuckle. If so, I recommend eibach helpers. I use them in my setup:

 

[MR_X]

So you are saying you can't change the ride height any lower in the front by using the bottom threaded section?

I imagine any helper springs will fit since the OD of the shock body is most likely the same as the the knuckle. If so, I recommend eibach helpers. I use them in my setup:

Correct. My shocks are at the lowest they can go.

Thanks. Really wanted to do eibach since they are in the US and can be found easily.

 

[razorlab]

Correct. My shocks are at the lowest they can go.

Thanks. Really wanted to do eibach since they are in the US and can be found easily.

Here are the parts I used:

Helper: (x2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-HELPER225

Perch: (x2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-SPACER225

I would still measure the OD of your threads to make sure.

 

[MR_X]

Here are the parts I used:

Helper: (x2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-HELPER225

Perch: (x2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EIB-SPACER225

I would still measure the OD of your threads to make sure.

Thanks. I’m going to take another look tomorrow and make sure everything is right (and remove the bad KW canceler) before I dive into the helper springs.

 

[Nugs]

Got my Ohlins from 3DM with Vorshlag plates. SPL toe links with eccentric lockout still on the way. 2 weeks from install and 3 from alignment.

Curious if these are on yet and what your impressions are?
I've used Ohlins R&T on two previous cars and really liked them so was thinking about changing to the same set up.

 

[damnsupra]

Curious if these are on yet and what your impressions are?
I've used Ohlins R&T on two previous cars and really liked them so was thinking about changing to the same set up.

i have a full track setup with spl everything sway bars the whole deal, running on road and track ohlins.so far the car handles the track very well and is also pretty comfy on the street (if youre used to sports cars) only thing i'm struggling with is very high speed grip. the car breaks loose when trying to maintain grip on high speed cornerning. i got decently aggressive camber all around.

i will be switching to nitron 3 way next season just to upgrade since i'm falling behind following supras with 3 way suspensions

 

[krumpir]

Curious if these are on yet and what your impressions are?
I've used Ohlins R&T on two previous cars and really liked them so was thinking about changing to the same set up.

Haven't had time to do a track day or spirited drive yet because of the following issue.

The stock Ohlin springs which are not the right spec in the front for use with aftermarket camber plates. So the issue is that the front was sitting higher than stock with the Ohlins set at their lowest setting. Attaching photos below to see. After install and letting them settle for a week the measurements from the bottom of the wheel rim is the following,

Compressed
Front left 633mm
Front right 635mm
Rear left 622mm
Rear right 622mm

Uncompressed
Front right 679mm
Front left 679mm
Rear left 685mm
Rear right 685mm

The rear was set closer to the highest setting than the lowest, so I can lower it much more. The issue is that the front is max low and is 10mm higher than the front when compressed. The total travel of the shock and bump stop led me and Barry from 3DM to have to do some math with the spring rate, etc.. So what we wanted is a setup that would not cause the car to either,

A. Reach the point where we are using the bump stop constantly, we want to still use the travel of the shock, and reserve the bump stop for the extreme bumps.
B. Put a shorter spring that would cause the spring not to have preload when uncompressed, we wanted preload at all times.
C. Put too stiff of a spring for the stock Ohlin damper. (Could be solved with a revalve).

So what we ended up coming up with was the following from Swift. Im getting this installed next week, and an alignment the week after, then will report back

Front Springs:
Z65-152-110
ID: 65mm (2.56")
Length: 152mm (6") × 2

Rear Springs:
Z65-178-180
ID: 65mm (2.56")
Length: 178mm (7") × 2

Helper Springs:
H65-135-0008
Swift Helper Springs - Flat Wire 65mm (2.56") ID × 2

This setup will allow the spring to have full preload at all times. The total result is that it will allow for 10-15mm of lowering in the front in the end. This will fix the rake that the car currently has and allow the car to get in a lower, more optimal state for track use. Per 3DMMotorsports and Performance Dynamics SJ who both sell, install, and tune Ohlin kits have said that this kit was the first they seen the problem with. The kit seems almost like an 'off-the-shelf' kit, considering the lack of consideration for front camber plates. Also there was no where to mount the speed sensors, you can see in the photos I had to zip-tie them but normally there is a mount on the strut.

Overall they ride amazing on the streets and doubt they will disappoint on the track with the new springs (even OEM). If you want Ohlins and want to avoid this issue, do either of the 2 if you want adjustable front camber (doesn't apply if you use OEM top hates)

A. Use aftermarket camber plates but get different springs
B. Get a front lower control arm to adjust camber, use OEM top hats, no need to get new springs.

 

[Nugs]

Thanks for the detailed response.
Let us know how you go witht the swift springs.

 

[krumpir]

Thanks. I’m going to take another look tomorrow and make sure everything is right (and remove the bad KW canceler) before I dive into the helper springs.

what was the update with the helpers and ride height? I had the same issue and am getting my swift springs and helpers installed today on the Ohlins to see if it fixes the issue

 

[MR_X]

what was the update with the helpers and ride height? I had the same issue and am getting my swift springs and helpers installed today on the Ohlins to see if it fixes the issue

I left it alone for a bit and I’m glad I did. I think it settled just right. Note that I’m running 283/35 and 265/35

 

[Nugs]

I left it alone for a bit and I’m glad I did. I think it settled just right. Note that I’m running 283/35 and 265/35

Is that with the standard Ohlins Springs?

 

[MR_X]

Is that with the standard Ohlins Springs?

Yes

 

[Nugs]

Yes

And camber plates or OEM top hats?
Sorry for all the questions. That ride height looks good to me.

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