Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[razorlab]

First track day this season with the new aero. Well, I had Lime Rock last week but it rained all day so that doesn't count.

I dropped 2 secs off last seasons PB easy. Aero is kind of a mind F*ck. The car still has a ton more in it, I just didn't have my head 100% in the aero game yet. Almost every corner it would help I was chickening out, but it's what I expected for the first day out with it. Super stoked for the new potential of the car.

I also couldn't run my 20psi map. I tried in the first session but kept going into limp mode so I ran a 17psi map and it was solid all day. Tuning is a work in process.

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[REDLINE]

Does Toyota still offer a free track day via NASA if you purchase a new supra? I picked up a new ‘22 in October and never received anything from Toyota.

 

[ABQautoxer]

...So question to you guys. Would a bubble in the system cause the brakes to get shaky? Or should I still be thinking this was a bedding in issue? Going to try to get back on the track in 3 weeks to see if its all good or not.

I have the same issue. I thought it was warped rotors (first two sessions were drying conditions on Day 1) the first two day track days. Put on new rotors and experienced it again. Using Castrol SRF with it well bled so I don't think its that. Nothing is loose, even had a friend go over everything to make sure I wasn't missing something. The hotter the brakes get, the more the brake shudders intensifies.

 

[Todday1]

What pads are you running and how long have the rotors been in service. Normally shaking is warped rotors. But pad material could also do it especially if you have smoked the pads meaning they went way above the operating temps.

 

[ABQautoxer]

What pads are you running and how long have the rotors been in service. Normally shaking is warped rotors. But pad material could also do it especially if you have smoked the pads meaning they went way above the operating temps.

In my case they were new but bedded CSG C21 Front/CP Rear that had been bedded. Rotors were old but now are new fronts, rears I think are fine because the shudder is from the front but might replace the rear rotors and pads (going to CSG C11). It's really weird because the car stops just fine otherwise.

 

[Todday1]

I still expect it is rotors and the pads. If the pads are aggressive and then depending on heat levels can warp them. Even a new set depending how they are bedded in. You can take and get them turned an watch when they do it. It will tell you if they a not flat. I am still dealing with heat issues on the front and am cracking rotors from heat stress. I have versus brake duct and vented fender. So as your speeds increase you will have more issues with brakes/ pads trying to manage heat.

 

[Malcolm Feth]

I finally took my Supra out for a trackday at Brands Hatch Indy. I'm always starting the season from here as usually I every year I have a different car. It was nice and I managed to get some decent time, but still plenty to learn switching from Lotus Elise Cup into much heavier and powerful car.

I'm really thinking to take it somewhere, where speed matters. Silverstone
Before I do that - I need little brake upgrade, they feel way too soft after few laps.
Anyway. Stock Supra is good enough for casual trackday. It needs a few changes for a bit more regular use.


Best lap from the day (0.13 second slower than Elise Cup).


https://fastestlaps.com/tracks/brands-hatch-indy-circuit

 

[ABQautoxer]

If you're talking to me, they are new rotors that I have only ran on the street and was doing pulls for my tuner and managed to recreate it that way (in Mexico of course). tl;dr, new rotors didnt fix my problem

 

[Todday1]

I expect the fronts are warped. My heat range is 1300 to 1400 and Jayne even higher as it us at 1400+ color on the paint guide. They come off at 800 to 900 . So are definitely running in the 1000+ mark. Which is above both of these pad ratings. So I would get heat paint and find out what you are running and can match pads to operate in that range. This is why I have landed on hawk dtc70 or 60 both are in the range. Go get fronts turned and you will find out. I gave trashed a set if rotors in a 3 day weekend. So still trying to figure out brakes.

 

[Todday1]

If you're talking to me, they are new rotors that I have only ran on the street and was doing pulls for my tuner and managed to recreate it that way (in Mexico of course). tl;dr, new rotors didnt fix my problem

So brake vibration is due to un even surfaces. So is either rotor or pads. Some times uneven pad material can build up. But this usually goes away as the pads bed in more. So would pull both. And turn rotors with a new set of pads following the bedding in procedure for progressive stops and cooling completely. I have put a new set on other cars and they were not surfaced correctly to start with and they chattered right away so had to get another set. What pads are you using. And is it a stock rotor?

 

[FLtrackdays]

If I knew a bunch of people that had one, that would be a lot of fun. Unfortunately, I don't know of any people in my area, that go to my race tracks, that run them.
?

This is exactly how I met a shit ton of people. It also helped me meet @1slow_mk5 and realize I can go faster lots of place on the same tracks we both drive. To me that is priceless. Comparing with others on my same platform. Plus the “friend“ invites start coming in quickly with others who want to compare as well. I don’t have Bryan’s level of mechanical or electronic expertise for sure. So this is absolutely perfect for me ?.

I was doing an after track inspection on my car last night. Decided to bleed the brakes again since I was having a really odd issue at the track. The brakes were shaking the car like none other once warm. Thought it was a bad bedding in problem at first. As the day at the track went on, it got better (less shaking) but my pedal kept getting softer and lower. Anyways, I vacuum bled the brake system again and saw a nice bubble come out. My brake pedal is finally back to normal! Pretty sure my rear brakes were only doing 50% of what they should have. This would also explain why the front ABS was kicking in super easy.

So question to you guys. Would a bubble in the system cause the brakes to get shaky? Or should I still be thinking this was a bedding in issue? Going to try to get back on the track in 3 weeks to see if its all good or not.

I would say bedding issue after my experience. After replacing my rotors and pads = problem solved. Also gave them a nice smelly hard bed in. I’ve now found really affordable rotors on RockAuto and using Hawk DTC pads, after having the issue you guys are describing. My old race team always swapped them both out on my S2K and MX5. It was cheap. So I’m debating when these Hawk pads are done (next season) keeping on those cheap rotors. My OEM rotors didn’t mind when I switched to Hawks. But the aftermarket rotors did not like the pad swap to Paragons. I’m hoping that with sticking with the same brand pads, I might be able to get another use out of these cheap rotors. However, it’s no longer a big issue because of price. I definitely don’t want that severe shudder again. I did two track days like that, lol. It was awful but I still put down some decent lap times braking less. I’d love to know if @1slow_mk5 keeps his same rotors. Thanks to him, I’m back on the Hawk DTCs and loving em. I’m almost at his incredible fast lap times ?

I also doubt it was brake fluid for me. I bleed mine after each track weekend. Did a full flush when she got home and I still had the same issue, next track weekend. Again, I switched the rotors and pads, problem solved. Mine definitely warped somehow or pads were faulty? Regardless, I think @Todday1 is spot on, on this one @ABQautoxer.

 

[Todday1]

This is exactly how I met a shit ton of people. It also helped me meet @1slow_mk5 and realize I can go faster lots of place on the same tracks we both drive. To me that is priceless. Comparing with others on my same platform. Plus the “friend“ invites start coming in quickly with others who want to compare as well. I don’t have Bryan’s level of mechanical or electronic expertise for sure. So this is absolutely perfect for me ?.


I would say bedding issue after my experience. After replacing my rotors and pads = problem solved. Also gave them a nice smelly hard bed in. I’ve now found really affordable rotors on RockAuto and using Hawk DTC pads, after having the issue you guys are describing. My old race team always swapped them both out on my S2K and MX5. It was cheap. So I’m debating when these Hawk pads are done (next season) keeping on those cheap rotors. My OEM rotors didn’t mind when I switched to Hawks. But the aftermarket rotors did not like the pad swap to Paragons. I’m hoping that with sticking with the same brand pads, I might be able to get another use out of these cheap rotors. However, it’s no longer a big issue because of price. I definitely don’t want that severe shudder again. I did two track days like that, lol. It was awful but I still put down some decent lap times braking less. I’d love to know if @1slow_mk5 keeps his same rotors. Thanks to him, I’m back on the Hawk DTCs and loving em. I’m almost at his incredible fast lap times ?

I also doubt it was brake fluid for me. I bleed mine after each track weekend. Did a full flush when she got home and I still had the same issue, next track weekend. Again, I switched the rotors and pads, problem solved. Mine definitely warped somehow or pads were faulty? Regardless, I think @Todday1 is spot on, on this one @ABQautoxer.

I had posted this previously but here is the heat paint product. You can see that it is beige which is the highest range. I do not advocate drilled rotors but I had these on hand and cracked my other ones so put on to use I have bike brake 15” rotors 6 piston front and 14” 4 piston rear. and calipers as well so have gone back and forth and am still working on getting a custom made kit that can handle the heat. At least I hope. Once I get I can update everyone.

 

[AdamP]

what hub stands are these? You going to be at AMP today?

 

[Todday1]

what hub stands are these? You going to be at AMP today?

These are from motive engineering. No I am not able to make Amp. I will be at Inde end of May

 

[AdamP]

These are from motive engineering. No I am not able to make Amp. I will be at Inde end of May

Awesome, those are a good price too. Thank you

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