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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

Rensuhlo

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Went to Atlanta Motorsports Park with the goal to do a 1:31. Walked away with a nice 1:28.93.

Theres a lot of false brake events due to the way Dragy uses a simulation based off Gs. So the light brake flashing is lift off throttle.

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theQuaybee

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Hey guys and gals, I'm back from Winter hiatus. I wanted your opinion. I'm still trying to figure out what to do about my heating issues, and I think a hood vent is needed.

Any thoughts on:

  • Cutting the hood and adding triple seven GT4-style vent and eventually fender vents VS:
  • Getting a full carbon hood like the Seibon TV-Style?
I know that may be something I'm going to have to answer for myself, but I'm just looking for insight, as $250 or $650 + cutting your own hood is much nicer on the wallet compared to $2.5k for the carbon hood with vents. But if the performance of the Seibon hood is way better, for example, then maybe worth it?

By the way, if you remember my crazy braking issue where the car was rotating crazily under medium+ braking, well, there was a toe link bolt coming loose. I have SPL toe links. I 've since replaced the bolts as they're technically one-time-use, but I noticed in SPL's instructions, they mention to torque the toe link bolt to 70 ft/lbs. However, the repair manual for the Supra states 70 + 90 degrees. That put it around 105 ft/lbs when I was done with it, so it would appear the 70 ft/lbs torque in the instructions was 30+ lbs short, and this one happened to start backing out.

Anyway, figured I'd close the loop on that one, felt pretty dumb for not catching that sooner. ?
 
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Islindur

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Well, I did cut my hood with 777 coz it seemed the best and cheapest solution so... :D but i'm adding sayber top fender vents too, so no problem with cutting for me :)

How are your oil temps doing? Did u solve it?
 
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FLtrackdays

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Hey guys and gals, I'm back from Winter hiatus. I wanted your opinion. I'm still trying to figure out what to do about my heating issues, and I think a hood vent is needed.

Any thoughts on:

  • Cutting the hood and adding triple seven GT4-style vent and eventually fender vents VS:
  • Getting a full carbon hood like the Seibon TV-Style?
I know that may be something I'm going to have to answer for myself, but I'm just looking for insight, as $250 or $650 + cutting your own hood is much nicer on the wallet compared to $2.5k for the carbon hood with vents. But if the performance of the Seibon hood is way better, for example, then maybe worth it?

By the way, if you remember my crazy braking issue where the car was rotating crazily under medium+ braking, well, there was a toe link bolt coming loose. I have SPL toe links. I 've since replaced the bolts as they're technically one-time-use, but I noticed in SPL's instructions, they mention to torque the toe link bolt to 70 ft/lbs. However, the repair manual for the Supra states 70 + 90 degrees. That put it around 105 ft/lbs when I was done with it, so it would appear the 70 ft/lbs torque in the instructions was 30+ lbs short, and this one happened to start backing out.

Anyway, figured I'd close the loop on that one, felt pretty dumb for not catching that sooner. ?
Good job on tightening the bolts. You’re right that they do need to be checked a lot. I’d seriously consider an upgraded manifold if you’re looking to reduce heat. Will cutting help? Absolutely! But that would will be my next “upgrade”.



Finally did an overlay on one of my 2:25 laps ☝ Goal is more consistency and 2:23s @Sebring
 

Rensuhlo

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Rocksandblues

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Are you tellling me to use all of the track? Not sure where you're going with this.

yes sir. Just a humble, non offensive, politically correct suggestion that may or may not be worth a ham sandwich. :)
 

theQuaybee

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Sorry, meant to respond sooner.

How are your oil temps doing? Did u solve it?
I’d seriously consider an upgraded manifold if you’re looking to reduce heat. Will cutting help? Absolutely! But that would will be my next “upgrade”.
No, my oil temps and IATs are stupid high at the track. Even in 70* ambient, after several laps my oil will still ping 300*F eventually. I have done everything I can to verify I don't have bubbles in my coolant circuits. Everything was vacuum-filled.

I have AMS intake mani and CSF main HX + aux rads, + their upgraded trans cooler. I think I'm going to swap back to the thinner OEM trans cooler as I don't think the thick CSF one is needed and is robbing more air/cooling for the other rads. I also feel that their rock guard is blocking air as it has around .25-.5" of frame on all 4 sides of it, so going to swap back to the OE rock guard.

I know Razor hates CSF but I can't fathom how they could be worse than OE. That said I'm to the point where I'll swap them all back to OE just to see what temps do this summer, but by then I'm likely going to either have some holes in my hood, some tuning, and some other things done that won't really give me comparable data from last season.

TYRFRYR had an interesting theory that maybe due to the car being lower from the Nitron coilovers, the airflow is worse and is pocketing due to it having less space to escape out the downpipe area. ?‍♂

I do also know that a CSG tune would target lower coolant temps and I am currently still not tuned.
 

Bug2th

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Sorry, meant to respond sooner.




No, my oil temps and IATs are stupid high at the track. Even in 70* ambient, after several laps my oil will still ping 300*F eventually. I have done everything I can to verify I don't have bubbles in my coolant circuits. Everything was vacuum-filled.

I have AMS intake mani and CSF main HX + aux rads, + their upgraded trans cooler. I think I'm going to swap back to the thinner OEM trans cooler as I don't think the thick CSF one is needed and is robbing more air/cooling for the other rads. I also feel that their rock guard is blocking air as it has around .25-.5" of frame on all 4 sides of it, so going to swap back to the OE rock guard.

I know Razor hates CSF but I can't fathom how they could be worse than OE. That said I'm to the point where I'll swap them all back to OE just to see what temps do this summer, but by then I'm likely going to either have some holes in my hood, some tuning, and some other things done that won't really give me comparable data from last season.

TYRFRYR had an interesting theory that maybe due to the car being lower from the Nitron coilovers, the airflow is worse and is pocketing due to it having less space to escape out the downpipe area. ?‍♂

I do also know that a CSG tune would target lower coolant temps and I am currently still not tuned.
so on a stock car where is most of the heat transfer to air happening? I’m used to there being an intercooler but in this setup the exchange from the hot compressed air is transferred to engine coolant and then to the radiator?
 

razorlab

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so on a stock car where is most of the heat transfer to air happening? I’m used to there being an intercooler but in this setup the exchange from the hot compressed air is transferred to engine coolant and then to the radiator?
The intake air is cooled by the intercooler in the intake manifold, which is cooled by a heat exchanger in front of the car. It's a totally separate cooling circuit than the engine coolant and engine oil.

Intake charge cooled by: Intake manifold intercooler and front heat exchanger
Engine oil and coolant cooled by: Front radiator, two side radiators, fluid filled block exchanger on oil filter housing.
 

Bug2th

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The intake air is cooled by the intercooler in the intake manifold, which is cooled by a heat exchanger in front of the car. It's a totally separate cooling circuit than the engine coolant and engine oil.

Intake charge cooled by: Intake manifold intercooler and front heat exchanger
Engine oil and coolant cooled by: Front radiator, two side radiators, fluid filled block exchanger on oil filter housing.
thanks. Been trying to figure that out. So what is the intake manifold cooled with, ie. Coolant too and does that system have a separate pump? Wondering if it’s worthwhile to have a water misting system in front of the front heat exchanger triggered at a specific temp?
 

razorlab

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thanks. Been trying to figure that out. So what is the intake manifold cooled with, ie. Coolant too and does that system have a separate pump? Wondering if it’s worthwhile to have a water misting system in front of the front heat exchanger triggered at a specific temp?
Intake manifold is cooled by the heat exchanger in the front of the car. It's stacked with the radiator and transmission cooler.

Yes, there is a pump for all the cooling systems.
 

Islindur

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Sorry, meant to respond sooner.




No, my oil temps and IATs are stupid high at the track. Even in 70* ambient, after several laps my oil will still ping 300*F eventually. I have done everything I can to verify I don't have bubbles in my coolant circuits. Everything was vacuum-filled.

I have AMS intake mani and CSF main HX + aux rads, + their upgraded trans cooler. I think I'm going to swap back to the thinner OEM trans cooler as I don't think the thick CSF one is needed and is robbing more air/cooling for the other rads. I also feel that their rock guard is blocking air as it has around .25-.5" of frame on all 4 sides of it, so going to swap back to the OE rock guard.

I know Razor hates CSF but I can't fathom how they could be worse than OE. That said I'm to the point where I'll swap them all back to OE just to see what temps do this summer, but by then I'm likely going to either have some holes in my hood, some tuning, and some other things done that won't really give me comparable data from last season.

TYRFRYR had an interesting theory that maybe due to the car being lower from the Nitron coilovers, the airflow is worse and is pocketing due to it having less space to escape out the downpipe area. ?‍♂

I do also know that a CSG tune would target lower coolant temps and I am currently still not tuned.
I have a hole in the hood (777 vent) but i went with pwr hx + rad, koyo aux + csf trans cooler on my 3.0. Wanna do wagner manifold to complete it. Baiscally this is the setup the fastest 600hp+ supras run so i just mimicked it. Have no temp problems so far but stock power. I also never solved cooling problems and 300+f oils on 2.0, so i sold it.

How do U like Nitron susp? R1 or r3? What spring rates did U go with? How are they on the road?
Im considering Nitron over Ohlins.
 

FLtrackdays

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yes sir. Just a humble, non offensive, politically correct suggestion that may or may not be worth a ham sandwich. :)
I’m gonna grab a ham samwidge and start using more of the track myself. The VW driver was like watching an instructional video for using all the track ?
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