Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[racebuild]

Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet.

Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself.

If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.

If you’re worried about sway bar stiction, you’re probably not gonna be a fan of high pressure dampers.

The bushing is urethane which is a poor material for a bushing, but on a sway bar it’ll be fine and will conform to shape.

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[JRTritsch]

Either Whiteline has some clever reason for making this particular bushing thicker than usual, going against basically every poly bushed sway bar on the market - including themselves in other applications. Or they just lazily measured the OEM bushing and copied its size without thinking about it. I’ll take my guess.

The hump is not enough to swallow like 1/3” of bushing. It’s over-compressed which was the whole point. It will likely bind over time as the lube gets pressed out. There is a lot of bushing material there, maybe it deforms enough to be ok, but it shouldn’t have to.

I’m not sure why this is hard to accept; the function of a sway bar bushing is to act as a bushing, not provide damping or friction. When they get really bound up the bar breaks or the mounts break. It’s not that uncommon.

 

[JRTritsch]

Plates are in. Look at the bracket again. It has a hump. The bushing fills it when compressed. Just like OEM. The OEM bushing sticks out past the top when not installed just like the whiteline.

The hump is molded into the bushing. The whole thing just gets compressed. There’s no extra space.

 

[Evolution]

I have had my whiteline sway in for over 2 years and 10k miles. Had my front suspension all apart a little over a month ago and the bushings were still fine and the bar rotated as it should. No issues here.

edit - just wanted to add, when I added poly bushings to my jeeps sway and motor mounts, they required to be compressed the same amount. Different brand too.

 

[JRTritsch]

I guess I’m wrong then. Back to regularly scheduled track chat

 

[Rensuhlo]

Went to Atlanta Motorsports Park with the goal to do a 1:31. Walked away with a nice 1:28.93.

Theres a lot of false brake events due to the way Dragy uses a simulation based off Gs. So the light brake flashing is lift off throttle.

 

[theQuaybee]

Hey guys and gals, I'm back from Winter hiatus. I wanted your opinion. I'm still trying to figure out what to do about my heating issues, and I think a hood vent is needed.

Any thoughts on:

• Cutting the hood and adding triple seven GT4-style vent and eventually fender vents VS:
• Getting a full carbon hood like the Seibon TV-Style?

I know that may be something I'm going to have to answer for myself, but I'm just looking for insight, as $250 or $650 + cutting your own hood is much nicer on the wallet compared to $2.5k for the carbon hood with vents. But if the performance of the Seibon hood is way better, for example, then maybe worth it?

By the way, if you remember my crazy braking issue where the car was rotating crazily under medium+ braking, well, there was a toe link bolt coming loose. I have SPL toe links. I 've since replaced the bolts as they're technically one-time-use, but I noticed in SPL's instructions, they mention to torque the toe link bolt to 70 ft/lbs. However, the repair manual for the Supra states 70 + 90 degrees. That put it around 105 ft/lbs when I was done with it, so it would appear the 70 ft/lbs torque in the instructions was 30+ lbs short, and this one happened to start backing out.

Anyway, figured I'd close the loop on that one, felt pretty dumb for not catching that sooner.

 

[Islindur]

Well, I did cut my hood with 777 coz it seemed the best and cheapest solution so... but i'm adding sayber top fender vents too, so no problem with cutting for me

How are your oil temps doing? Did u solve it?

 

[FLtrackdays]

Hey guys and gals, I'm back from Winter hiatus. I wanted your opinion. I'm still trying to figure out what to do about my heating issues, and I think a hood vent is needed.

Any thoughts on:

• Cutting the hood and adding triple seven GT4-style vent and eventually fender vents VS:
• Getting a full carbon hood like the Seibon TV-Style?

I know that may be something I'm going to have to answer for myself, but I'm just looking for insight, as $250 or $650 + cutting your own hood is much nicer on the wallet compared to $2.5k for the carbon hood with vents. But if the performance of the Seibon hood is way better, for example, then maybe worth it?

By the way, if you remember my crazy braking issue where the car was rotating crazily under medium+ braking, well, there was a toe link bolt coming loose. I have SPL toe links. I 've since replaced the bolts as they're technically one-time-use, but I noticed in SPL's instructions, they mention to torque the toe link bolt to 70 ft/lbs. However, the repair manual for the Supra states 70 + 90 degrees. That put it around 105 ft/lbs when I was done with it, so it would appear the 70 ft/lbs torque in the instructions was 30+ lbs short, and this one happened to start backing out.

Anyway, figured I'd close the loop on that one, felt pretty dumb for not catching that sooner.

Good job on tightening the bolts. You’re right that they do need to be checked a lot. I’d seriously consider an upgraded manifold if you’re looking to reduce heat. Will cutting help? Absolutely! But that would will be my next “upgrade”.



Finally did an overlay on one of my 2:25 laps Goal is more consistency and 2:23s @Sebring

 

[Rensuhlo]

Another video a driver sent me:

 

[Rocksandblues]

^^ use all of the track

 

[Rensuhlo]

^^ use all of the track

Are you tellling me to use all of the track? Not sure where you're going with this.

 

[Rocksandblues]

Are you tellling me to use all of the track? Not sure where you're going with this.

yes sir. Just a humble, non offensive, politically correct suggestion that may or may not be worth a ham sandwich.

 

[theQuaybee]

Sorry, meant to respond sooner.

How are your oil temps doing? Did u solve it?

I’d seriously consider an upgraded manifold if you’re looking to reduce heat. Will cutting help? Absolutely! But that would will be my next “upgrade”.

No, my oil temps and IATs are stupid high at the track. Even in 70* ambient, after several laps my oil will still ping 300*F eventually. I have done everything I can to verify I don't have bubbles in my coolant circuits. Everything was vacuum-filled.

I have AMS intake mani and CSF main HX + aux rads, + their upgraded trans cooler. I think I'm going to swap back to the thinner OEM trans cooler as I don't think the thick CSF one is needed and is robbing more air/cooling for the other rads. I also feel that their rock guard is blocking air as it has around .25-.5" of frame on all 4 sides of it, so going to swap back to the OE rock guard.

I know Razor hates CSF but I can't fathom how they could be worse than OE. That said I'm to the point where I'll swap them all back to OE just to see what temps do this summer, but by then I'm likely going to either have some holes in my hood, some tuning, and some other things done that won't really give me comparable data from last season.

TYRFRYR had an interesting theory that maybe due to the car being lower from the Nitron coilovers, the airflow is worse and is pocketing due to it having less space to escape out the downpipe area.

I do also know that a CSG tune would target lower coolant temps and I am currently still not tuned.

 

[Bug2th]

Sorry, meant to respond sooner.




No, my oil temps and IATs are stupid high at the track. Even in 70* ambient, after several laps my oil will still ping 300*F eventually. I have done everything I can to verify I don't have bubbles in my coolant circuits. Everything was vacuum-filled.

I have AMS intake mani and CSF main HX + aux rads, + their upgraded trans cooler. I think I'm going to swap back to the thinner OEM trans cooler as I don't think the thick CSF one is needed and is robbing more air/cooling for the other rads. I also feel that their rock guard is blocking air as it has around .25-.5" of frame on all 4 sides of it, so going to swap back to the OE rock guard.

I know Razor hates CSF but I can't fathom how they could be worse than OE. That said I'm to the point where I'll swap them all back to OE just to see what temps do this summer, but by then I'm likely going to either have some holes in my hood, some tuning, and some other things done that won't really give me comparable data from last season.

TYRFRYR had an interesting theory that maybe due to the car being lower from the Nitron coilovers, the airflow is worse and is pocketing due to it having less space to escape out the downpipe area.

I do also know that a CSG tune would target lower coolant temps and I am currently still not tuned.

so on a stock car where is most of the heat transfer to air happening? I’m used to there being an intercooler but in this setup the exchange from the hot compressed air is transferred to engine coolant and then to the radiator?

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