Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[kyle9]

And why is that?

I've been asking in this thread multiple times over the past year about them and nobody seemed to have tried them...

They'll melt.

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[licklobster]

Have good experiences with cobalt racing brakes pads if you're looking for something new. Imagine a xr2f/xr4r would be a good match for a supra. Maybe even a xr1 front

 

[razorlab]

I can share my experiences with some brake pads on my personal supra. These are my experiences. Performance might differ depending on the track, power, tires, and experience level.

Experience level: Advanced with 20+ years experience. Usually in the top 5 lap times yearly for HPDE Championships

Tracks: Lime Rock, Palmer Motorsports Park

Supra power level: 600whp+

Tires: Bridgestone RE71RS, Nankang CRS, Kumho V730

I wear all black clothing most of the time, but have been known to listen to Taylor Swift.

CSG C21
Most stopping power so far. I actually very much disliked their light switch personality.
They cost an absurd amount of money so I have only used them once
They are loud
They eat rotors

Hawk DTC60
Closeish to C21 in stopping power
Great modulation
They aren't loud
They dust a lot
Affordable. You can buy three sets for one set of CSG
These are my current go-to's, I've used about three sets so far

Project Mu Club Racers
Good stopping power for medium horsepower builds
I outgrew these when I reached 550whp+
A little odd sometimes modulation wise
Low noise if at all
Affordable.

Project Mu Racing 999
Haven't used these yet but they are next in line after the DTC60's.

I've used a ton of other brake pads on other cars in the past but we are talking about Supras so not relevant.

Hope this helps somebody.

 

[Traxion]

And why is that?

I've been asking in this thread multiple times over the past year about them and nobody seemed to have tried them...

Another guy on the forums (idk his forum name but he's a top tier driver) tried them last weekend and reported back they were not up to the job and were smearing really badly. He swapped to PMu 999 for the following day and his braking complaints were solved. Also if Kyle says they're not up to par, then that's also saying something.

 

[licklobster]

Cobalt Racing Brakes

Toyota GR Supra CRB.XRx.D1867 (Front)

$459.00

Toyota GR Supra CRB.XRx.D1892 (Rear)

$339.00

Cobalt suggests XR1 Front /XR3 Rear or XR2 Front/XR4 Rear (Less aggressive, similar to a Hawk DTC60-30 combo)

 

[razorlab]

Because brake pads that worked well on a 1600 lb sorta kinda car totally would be the same on Supras.

 

[licklobster]

https://cobaltbrakes.com/blog/jason-kanakrys-mclaren-720s-wins-gridlife-track-battle-at-cmp

junk car with cobalt brakes

I'm of the opinion that crb are some of the finest pads you can buy, period. Have seen them work on many many fast track cars. (GT3 level and faster)

 

[licklobster]

Because brake pads that worked well on a 1600 lb sorta kinda car totally would be the same on Supras.

2100# and 530hp

 

[Rocksandblues]

I can share my experiences with some brake pads on my personal supra. These are my experiences. Performance might differ depending on the track, power, tires, and experience level.

Experience level: Advanced with 20+ years experience. Usually in the top 5 lap times yearly for HPDE Championships

Tracks: Lime Rock, Palmer Motorsports Park

Supra power level: 600whp+

Tires: Bridgestone RE71RS, Nankang CRS, Kumho V730

I wear all black clothing most of the time, but have been known to listen to Taylor Swift.

CSG C21
Most stopping power so far. I actually very much disliked their light switch personality.
They cost an absurd amount of money so I have only used them once
They are loud
They eat rotors

Hawk DTC60
Closeish to C21 in stopping power
Great modulation
They aren't loud
They dust a lot
Affordable. You can buy three sets for one set of CSG
These are my current go-to's, I've used about three sets so far

Project Mu Club Racers
Good stopping power for medium horsepower builds
I outgrew these when I reached 550whp+
A little odd sometimes modulation wise
Low noise if at all
Affordable.

Project Mu Racing 999
Haven't used these yet but they are next in line after the DTC60's.

I've used a ton of other brake pads on other cars in the past but we are talking about Supras so not relevant.

Hope this helps somebody.

you will be a fan of 999s

 

[TBK]

These are the alignment settings that were recommended by a really good suspension shop in the UK. I bought a set of camber plates from them, and after a couple foe exchanges, they sent me this based on my parts (200tw tire, Ohlins etc...) and use case (amateur time attack build)

Thoughts?

 

[FLtrackdays]

you will be a fan of 999s

Completely agree ??

These are the alignment settings that were recommended by a really good suspension shop in the UK. I bought a set of camber plates from them, and after a couple foe exchanges, they sent me this based on my parts (200tw tire, Ohlins etc...) and use case (amateur time attack build)

Thoughts?

I prefer my front toe 0.5mm out otherwise looks really good if you’re not rotating too quickly with that much toe out. My front camber is -3.4 and rear camber is -2.7 with 2 mm toe in the rear. This is best for me pushing hard on flat & bumpy Sebring. At Homestead my toe stays the same but camber is slightly less negative (front & rear). If I know I’m going to frequent Homestead more.

 

[kyle9]

These are the alignment settings that were recommended by a really good suspension shop in the UK. I bought a set of camber plates from them, and after a couple foe exchanges, they sent me this based on my parts (200tw tire, Ohlins etc...) and use case (amateur time attack build)

Thoughts?

That shop is very competent and this is a reasonable alignment for a modest track build. You can potentially run more camber, especially with grippy tires, soft sidewall tires, or aero etc. I would trust their feedback if you need changes made - they will steering you in the right direction.

 

[TBK]

That shop is very competent and this is a reasonable alignment for a modest track build. You can potentially run more camber, especially with grippy tires, soft sidewall tires, or aero etc. I would trust their feedback if you need changes made - they will steering you in the right direction.

Thanks a ton Kyle for the advice. (enjoyed watching you at COTA)

 

[AHP]

Because brake pads that worked well on a 1600 lb sorta kinda car totally would be the same on Supras.

If this is in reference to Cobalt pads, I can tell you the XR1/XR2 combo works exceptionally well on a 3700lb, 650+ HP car. I tried them per Coby Shield's recommendation and now it's all I run on my C7Z/AP brakes. It is the only pad I have not been able to fade in the slightest, on tracks known for being hard on brakes; absolutely unrelenting. And they are much easier on rotors compared to DS3.12, DTC-70 or similar. The only downside is they wear a bit quicker than some others and they're not the cheapest. Other positives is they bed-in pretty much instantly and cold to smoking hot the TQ curve is flat.


I know, not a Supra so not entirely relevant or at least take it with a grain of salt. However, if they work on a heavier, higher HP car, the same compound I'm sure will work as well or better on a lighter car. I know for fact the opposite is true, though. i.e., The CSG pads every loves on this platform turned to a pile of smoking rubble on my C7Z at CMP.


Anyhey... I've run the gamut on brake pads on my C7Z and now sticking with Cobalt. Fackin thing eeeeats pads (and tires). Managed to kill a set of 25mm DTC-70 in a single day at CMP... The Supra is refreshing in that I get literally 5-6x the life out of consumables.

 

[AHP]

I didnt say cheap, just that there seems tk be an option
Any1 using Ferodo 3.12 btw?

They work well if you like a high Mu pad but the cons outweigh the pros, IMO. They start to feel crunchy when they get a lot of heat in them and they absolutely obliterate rotors. Not to mention wayyyy overpriced as well. To me, they are pretty similar to DTC-70 at a much higher cost.


Also, I would stay far away from EBC.. I tried the SR21 and had terrible results. Turns out a block of sintered iron becomes a giant heat sync and then bad and expensive things happen..

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