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Razorlab - 2020 LE build thread

TBK

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Found out why my Supra started to get a little stinky...

IMG_0157.jpeg


So I swapped a catless DP on and now it's even more stinky and sounds raspy raspy crappy crappy. Time to shop for a new GESI catted DP.
Are you really going from catless to catted just because of the sound and smell? You can always swap out the catback if you want to eliminate the rasp. Double win because you get more power with the catless and more weight savings with the catback (and catless dp actually). Can't do much about the smell though.

Car is happier with catless
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razorlab

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Are you really going from catless to catted just because of the sound and smell?
Yes. The car has been catted for it's whole life. It makes great power and pulls on powerful cars like C8 Z06's with a cat. What does it do without a cat? Smells and sounds like crap.

You can always swap out the catback if you want to eliminate the rasp.
Nope. I cannot. Strict sound limits at my local track.

Can't do much about the smell though.
Nope, my clothes absolutely stink after driving the car. It's nasty. I left the catless life back in my 20's.
 

TBK

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Yes, let's mansplain to @razorlab. That's going to go well.
Just asking questions and trying to understand somebody else's POV man, not "mansplaining" anything to anyone. It's just conversation.


What does it do without a cat?
More power, better spool, lower EGTs. Not a night and day difference i'll give you that, but it's something.


Nope. I cannot. Strict sound limits at my local track.
You can opt for something like the HKS one, which is basically 2 decibels higher than the OEM one for both open and closed valve



Nope, my clothes absolutely stink after driving the car. It's nasty. I left the catless life back in my 20's.
Yeah i guess if this is your dealbreaker then that's that. The smell doesn't really bother me, but i might be in the minority on that one.
 

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Nope, my clothes absolutely stink after driving the car. It's nasty. I left the catless life back in my 20's.
I'm trying to figure out what I can use for a high horsepower build. Right now the only one I see is Fabspeed's option but it's $2000. I could save a lot of money going catless, but I don't want my car to smell like I'm hotboxing 93 and E85. Also gives me a major headache.

It's rated for 1200hp, but damn that price is eyewatering. My target is anywhere between 850 and 900ish in my highest map. What are you currently looking at or do you have alternative suggestions?

I'm looking to have a car that doesn't smell or sound obnoxious after I'm done with my mods.
 

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Yes. The car has been catted for it's whole life. It makes great power and pulls on powerful cars like C8 Z06's with a cat. What does it do without a cat? Smells and sounds like crap.



Nope. I cannot. Strict sound limits at my local track.



Nope, my clothes absolutely stink after driving the car. It's nasty. I left the catless life back in my 20's.
Which track is your local track? Lime Rock? What's the db limit?

I bought a Valvetronic exhaust because it doesn't utilize the factory electronic valve, it uses it's own vacuum system. That way I can open the valve independently of what mode the car is in, so if the track has a strict sound limit, valve closed. Otherwise, let it rip. With the valve closed it is basically OEM noise.
 
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razorlab

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I'm trying to figure out what I can use for a high horsepower build. Right now the only one I see is Fabspeed's option but it's $2000. I could save a lot of money going catless, but I don't want my car to smell like I'm hotboxing 93 and E85. Also gives me a major headache.

It's rated for 1200hp, but damn that price is eyewatering. My target is anywhere between 850 and 900ish in my highest map. What are you currently looking at or do you have alternative suggestions?

I'm looking to have a car that doesn't smell or sound obnoxious after I'm done with my mods.
Yea the HJS cats are $$$$$$. I'm also not convinced that a 200 cell won't have any smell.

The Gen 2 GESI cats support up to 1200hp as well.
 
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razorlab

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razorlab

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Which track is your local track? Lime Rock? What's the db limit?
Yea, Lime Rock.

88 db but they have a couple days a year with no limits. That's when all the Cup cars come out. :)

@garudathree blew sound at Lime Rock from his aero, if that helps understand the db limit. ;)
 

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Yea, Lime Rock.

88 db but they have a couple days a year with no limits. That's when all the Cup cars come out. :)

@garudathree blew sound at Lime Rock from his aero, if that helps understand the db limit. ;)
Wow that is incredibly low. Gridlife must have a no-limits day because I would say 90% of the cars won't pass that. There's a lot of factory OEM cars that won't pass that...
 

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Yes that is basically what I had this whole time, but made by MAP. Same GESI cat though.

I might just bring it to a welder and see if we can fix the cracks.

Back when it was new:

IMG_4017.jpeg
I was actually going to suggest welding it. Small cracks like that are easily fixed, and you could even add some gusseting to the bracket that gives better support to the whole area. I only weld as a hobby, but that type of crack isn't uncommon in thin wall exhaust that gets really hot. Cracking at the end of the weld usually means the initial weld made thin spots at the edge of the puddle then wasn't annealed properly. Over time with a ton of heat cycles and vibration they tend to crack, but are easily fixed by someone with a TIG and 20ish minutes of thought/prep.
 
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razorlab

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Wow that is incredibly low. Gridlife must have a no-limits day because I would say 90% of the cars won't pass that. There's a lot of factory OEM cars that won't pass that...
Yea it seems so low. There have been GT350's and such that sound EASILY higher than that but never get black flagged, then there is Peter blowing it from the noise his aero made.

It's not like a standard db test that a police officer would do, it's usually placed in WOT sections but the sensor is def further away. It also depends on the environment, overcast vs blue skies, etc.

So many variables is the reason I haven't upgraded the catback. It would suck to do that and then get black flagged every event.
 

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I was actually going to suggest welding it. Small cracks like that are easily fixed, and you could even add some gusseting to the bracket that gives better support to the whole area. I only weld as a hobby, but that type of crack isn't uncommon in thin wall exhaust that gets really hot. Cracking at the end of the weld usually means the initial weld made thin spots at the edge of the puddle then wasn't annealed properly. Over time with a ton of heat cycles and vibration they tend to crack, but are easily fixed by someone with a TIG and 20ish minutes of thought/prep.
The issue with the original pipe cracking is the positioning of the bracket on the pipe. If you butt weld a bracket onto a tube like that it's not a question of if it will fail but when. Poor bracket positioning/design i'm afraid.
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