Razorlab - 2020 LE build thread

[Habu]

2025 and Bootmod3 Rev2 still not out.

I'm moving to MHD Plus once the season starts.

Join the dark side.

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[razorlab]

Was reminded again that piggybacks are trash. Added one to my B48 330i and oh boy is it not happy with it.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Was reminded again that piggybacks are trash. Added one to my B48 330i and oh boy is it not happy with it.

Is is better than stock? Or so bad that you‘ll end up tuning it yourself. Like you did for the B58?

 

[razorlab]

Is is better than stock? Or so bad that you‘ll end up tuning it yourself. Like you did for the B58?

No. Super inconsistent. Transmission shifts like it's pissed off all the time. Trash.

Not going to pay to Femto a B48. Def taking this piggyback off and throwing it in the trash.

 

[razorlab]

No. Super inconsistent. Transmission shifts like it's pissed off all the time. Trash.

Not going to pay to Femto a B48. Def taking this piggyback off and throwing it in the trash.

The piggyback threw four codes today. Welp, that didn't last long. Into the trash it goes.

 

[_Sp1ral0ut]

The piggyback threw four codes today. Welp, that didn't last long. Into the trash it goes.

Are you going to do a charge back?

 

[razorlab]

Are you going to do a charge back?

No @Awad 'ing for me!

 

[94boosted]

I read through the entire thread, kudos to you for documenting your journey and sharing your learning's with us, this is an awesome thread.

Beyond oil changes every ~4 track days and new plugs twice a year, what are you doing for maintenance? Obviously ignoring consumables and likely brake fluid of course. Diff fluid? Trans fluid?

Have you had any failures or issues? Anything to keep an eye out on, seems like these things like to eventually destroy their diff bushings... Any bolts or fasteners that back off frequently? Alignment ever out of spec after a few track days?

 

[ColonelAdama]

No. Super inconsistent. Transmission shifts like it's pissed off all the time. Trash.

Not going to pay to Femto a B48. Def taking this piggyback off and throwing it in the trash.

tsk tsk should have went with a Colonel Jb4 tune ?


shift boost redux control would remedy the shifts, and could have cleaned up that shit timing easily. There's no way of knowing what your actual boost is in that log anyway.

It'd probably drive you crazy to not get your full logging parameters you are used to since JB4 uses the obd, but I'd be happy to point you to various B48 cars with clean logs I've done. Using a piggyback without EWG control is just silly.

no charge of course, you have provided a wealth of knowledge to this forum already


93 octane only, catless B48: https://datazap.me/u/coloneladama/log-1737754396?log=0&data=1-2-4-11-26-28-29

Yeah timing separation is typical for pump gas at lambda 1, but no knock events like yours lol...

 

[razorlab]

I read through the entire thread, kudos to you for documenting your journey and sharing your learning's with us, this is an awesome thread.

Beyond oil changes every ~4 track days and new plugs twice a year, what are you doing for maintenance? Obviously ignoring consumables and likely brake fluid of course. Diff fluid? Trans fluid?

Have you had any failures or issues? Anything to keep an eye out on, seems like these things like to eventually destroy their diff bushings... Any bolts or fasteners that back off frequently? Alignment ever out of spec after a few track days?

Glad you found some value!

I change my diff fluid about every 5 events. It's super easy. Faster than an engine oil change.

Trans I have done once, and that was after two seasons of about 40-45 track days. I thought I probably had waited too long but the fluid didn't look bad, but I didn't get it tested so who knows.

So far, the only OEM failure I have had is the charge pipe but that didn't fail until 60+ events.

I change the wheel studs every season, although I should probably do it every 10 events. I lost some studs but luckily no consequences.

I go through about two sets of front rotors a season. So about 10 events per front pair. Surprisingly, I am still on the original rear rotors. I need to measure them this winter.

I've swapping new front wheel bearings on this winter. I don't think the current ones are bad, but after 60+ events, I figured I should refresh them.

I had the drivers side aux radiator get compromised from a track booger that broke through the fender liner. I replaced the aux radiators with do88 (yay forced upgrade!) and added wire mesh to the fender liners.

I broke the front hanger for the catback exhaust but that was my fault. The stud was slightly corroded and I continued to tighten it when I shouldn't have and SNAP. I put some safety wire on to finish out last season and it worked for 10 events! I will be replacing the hanger this season.

Non OEM failures have been the SPL components. I am slowly replacing them all with Verkline.

 

[94boosted]

Glad you found some value!

I change my diff fluid about every 5 events. It's super easy. Faster than an engine oil change.

Trans I have done once, and that was after two seasons of about 40-45 track days. I thought I probably had waited too long but the fluid didn't look bad, but I didn't get it tested so who knows.

So far, the only OEM failure I have had is the charge pipe but that didn't fail until 60+ events.

I change the wheel studs every season, although I should probably do it every 10 events. I lost some studs but luckily no consequences.

I go through about two sets of front rotors a season. So about 10 events per front pair. Surprisingly, I am still on the original rear rotors. I need to measure them this winter.

I've swapping new front wheel bearings on this winter. I don't think the current ones are bad, but after 60+ events, I figured I should refresh them.

I had the drivers side aux radiator get compromised from a track booger that broke through the fender liner. I replaced the aux radiators with do88 (yay forced upgrade!) and added wire mesh to the fender liners.

I broke the front hanger for the catback exhaust but that was my fault. The stud was slightly corroded and I continued to tighten it when I shouldn't have and SNAP. I put some safety wire on to finish out last season and it worked for 10 events! I will be replacing the hanger this season.

Non OEM failures have been the SPL components. I am slowly replacing them all with Verkline.

Awesome, glad to hear this car is as robust as it is and the fact that you've done 63+ track days with only minor issues is wild, especially considering how much more power you're pushing. A couple follow up questions based on your responses (sorry).

Wheels studs a must? After two seasons of autocrossing my car and a couple track days, I was just going to get new lug bolts for this year, other than ease of use when swapping wheels, why studs? And I may as well ask, which studs and lug nuts do you recommend?

Regarding rotors it's nice there are some cheap rotors for our cars on rockauto now, but unfortunately there's an overwhelmingly large number of rotors to choose from. Any specific ones you'd recommend or just any one that offers an iron rotor and aluminum hat (same design as stock)?

 

[FLtrackdays]

I read through the entire thread, kudos to you for documenting your journey and sharing your learning's with us, this is an awesome thread.

Beyond oil changes every ~4 track days and new plugs twice a year, what are you doing for maintenance? Obviously ignoring consumables and likely brake fluid of course. Diff fluid? Trans fluid?

Have you had any failures or issues? Anything to keep an eye out on, seems like these things like to eventually destroy their diff bushings... Any bolts or fasteners that back off frequently? Alignment ever out of spec after a few track days?

Oh shit… I read the entire thread way too long ago. Appreciate the summary. Change the spark plugs twice a year??? ? I’ll add that to my to do list. I still haven’t’ changed the OEM ones and have almost 3 years & 12k miles. And now he has me worried about the charge pipe ?

Fresh fluid never hurts & like Bryan said, it’s easy to change. I only do it annually but don’t track as much as him. I need to get my new studs on. It’s so much easier if you have spacers or change your tires a lot.

 

[razorlab]

tsk tsk should have went with a Colonel Jb4 tune ?


shift boost redux control would remedy the shifts, and could have cleaned up that shit timing easily. There's no way of knowing what your actual boost is in that log anyway.

It'd probably drive you crazy to not get your full logging parameters you are used to since JB4 uses the obd, but I'd be happy to point you to various B48 cars with clean logs I've done. Using a piggyback without EWG control is just silly.

no charge of course, you have provided a wealth of knowledge to this forum already


93 octane only, catless B48: https://datazap.me/u/coloneladama/log-1737754396?log=0&data=1-2-4-11-26-28-29

Yeah timing separation is typical for pump gas at lambda 1, but no knock events like yours lol...

I'm good man. That log is running significantly less boost and worse timing than my b48 runs stock, so not really showing anything better. I appreciate your enthusiasm for piggybacks, but I just do not agree.

VS your log:

 

[razorlab]

Awesome, glad to hear this car is as robust as it is and the fact that you've done 63+ track days with only minor issues is wild, especially considering how much more power you're pushing. A couple follow up questions based on your responses (sorry).

Wheels studs a must? After two seasons of autocrossing my car and a couple track days, I was just going to get new lug bolts for this year, other than ease of use when swapping wheels, why studs? And I may as well ask, which studs and lug nuts do you recommend?

Regarding rotors it's nice there are some cheap rotors for our cars on rockauto now, but unfortunately there's an overwhelmingly large number of rotors to choose from. Any specific ones you'd recommend or just any one that offers an iron rotor and aluminum hat (same design as stock)?

Wheel studs are more a convenience. Much easier to swap wheels. I ran the whole first season with OEM lug bolts. Honestly, I kinda wish I would have stayed with lug bolts and I actually might move back to them this season.

I've run OEM 2 piece rotors and also the cheapest aftermarket one piece Dynamic Friction rotors which were around $65 each and I can tell zero difference. Rotors are consumables. I buy the cheapest that still work well.

 

[ColonelAdama]

I'm good man. That log is running significantly less boost and worse timing than my b48 runs stock, so not really showing anything better. I appreciate your enthusiasm for piggybacks, but I just do not agree.

VS your log:

No prob. shitty costco gas or something on this, but if you ever change your mind, lemme know! Definitely worth E blending since it runs lambda 1.

That log is running significantly less boost and worse timing than my b48 runs stock

as you know, DA directly affect dme boost targets and timing, so it'll never be exactly the same as yours. worse timing than stock because it is 25% more boost lol. Having <2 deg separation btwn cylinders is not considered poor timing. And your piggyback had actual knock lol.

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