Razorlab - 2020 LE build thread

[razorlab]

as you know, DA directly affect dme boost targets and timing, so it'll never be exactly the same as yours. worse timing than stock because it is 25% more boost lol. Having <2 deg separation btwn cylinders is not considered poor timing. And your piggyback had actual knock lol.

It’s showing less boost than stock in your log. 17 in mine vs 14 in your log. Same boost up top.

That timing is poor to me. All the logs I see with piggybacks, the timing looks terrible. I will find it interesting once you finally unlock your DME and tune the car for real, with real control.

I’m done talking about piggybacks in my thread now.

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[94boosted]

Wheel studs are more a convenience. Much easier to swap wheels. I ran the whole first season with OEM lug bolts. Honestly, I kinda wish I would have stayed with lug bolts and I actually might move back to them this season.

I've run OEM 2 piece rotors and also the cheapest aftermarket one piece Dynamic Friction rotors which were around $65 each and I can tell zero difference. Rotors are consumables. I buy the cheapest that still work well.

Thank you!

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

Apologies for not seeing this before.

I chose the MAD intake because it was cheap. haha. Figured if it sucked I wouldn't have a big investment in it. It ended up working well.

I bought the CTS inlet and then Paradigm inlet. The paradigm inlet ended up fitting like ass and had a weird welded in bit for clearance that I wasn't too keen about. CTS is cast and fit well. I also leaned more towards the cast CTS because at some point I will be getting a bung welded in for a IAT sensor so I can log pre-turbo intake temps.

I'm usually not a fan of CTS parts but this one works and fits pretty well.

Do you have the MAD connected to the CTS turbo inlet via a silicone coupler? I have the CTS turbo inlet, was just thinking of the getting the MAD intake.

 

[razorlab]

Do you have the MAD connected to the CTS turbo inlet via a silicone coupler? I have the CTS turbo inlet, was just thinking of the getting the MAD intake.

Yup, just slips right on with the MAD coupler. Same size.

 

[razorlab]

Got off my lazy ass and finally started prepping the car for this season.

My 2020 is now a Frankenstein with 21+ calipers.

Dust seals on my 2020 calipers actually weren't horrible yet:

The RE71RS's aged like a fine wine over the winter and got some blue coming through.

 

[razorlab]

So after about 40 track days my Pure700 left the chat yesterday at my first track day of the season.

I had it towed home to be extra careful not to do any more potential damage.

I found the broken blade pieces in the intake manifold. Luckily no damage to the intercooler core.

Time to scope the cylinders to make sure the engine didn't ingest anything.

 

[Bug2th]

It’s just a flesh wound…

So after about 40 track days my Pure700 left the chat yesterday at my first track day of the season.

I had it towed home to be extra careful not to do any more potential damage.

I found the broken blade pieces in the intake manifold. Luckily no damage to the intercooler core.

Time to scope the cylinders to make sure the engine didn't ingest anything.

 

[sams2k]

that sucks
how many miles you did on the turbo in total?

 

[TBK]

that sucks
how many miles you did on the turbo in total?

tbh i think the "40 track days" is more important the # of miles

 

[Antiq8ted_Ex0]

Hopefully his motor will be like

 

[FLtrackdays]

Damn that sucks! Hope you get back on track soon & testing for us all again soon ?
Good luck?

 

[razorlab]

that sucks
how many miles you did on the turbo in total?

About 13,000 miles and I had bought it slightly used in 2022.

 

[sams2k]

About 13,000 miles and I had bought it slightly used in 2022.

did you try to contact pure?

 

[razorlab]

did you try to contact pure?

Pure turbos warranty is 12 months. It's over two years old.

 

[lucky phil]

So after about 40 track days my Pure700 left the chat yesterday at my first track day of the season.

I had it towed home to be extra careful not to do any more potential damage.

I found the broken blade pieces in the intake manifold. Luckily no damage to the intercooler core.

Time to scope the cylinders to make sure the engine didn't ingest anything.

Not having seen one in the flesh or had a chance to inspect one in detail I'm not sure I'd be totally comfortable with those style of machined centrifugal compressor blades. The images seem to indicate it leaves a small saw tooth leading edge on each blade and if that's the case it's not really a great idea with regards to fatigue and failure resistance. If you get a little blade tip rub that produces some drag on the blade at the tip then instead of the tip bending it's going to shear along the machining lines along the blade face initiated from the leading edge thats less than smooth. Every overnight check we used to look at the leading edge of fan blades and any nicks or marks we dressed out and polished then got the NDI guys over to crack check the blades. Even during daily turn arounds we used to do this if the nicks were bad enough. The less than smooth leading edges do produce stress cracking along the blade chord eventually and we used to monitor the cracking progression of the internal compressor blades via borscoping to determine when we pulled the engine.
There's also the possibility I guess that the turbo has had a bearing failure major or minor thats allowed the compressor wheel to walk around and it have a big rub on the housing thats caused the blade failure.

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