Rust on turbo bolts and behind turbo

[Benjilis]

Anyone else?

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[freeform911]

Wow...
Have you cleaned the engine bay with anything that might have been acidic?

Steve

 

[Benjilis]

Wow...
Have you cleaned the engine bay with anything that might have been acidic?

Steve

No. When I do clean it it’s with an air compressor.
my old car I would walnut blast any carbon build up if I had to remove a part during a fix/install. But I Havnt down that with the Supra.

 

[freeform911]

No. When I do clean it it’s with an air compressor.
my old car I would walnut blast any carbon build up if I had to remove a part during a fix/install. But I Havnt down that with the Supra.

Yeah man...that kinda sucks...
Hope someone chimes in saying it's normal but in my mind it's not...

Steve

 

[GreyMadder]

Verus heatshield will cover it atleast for the most part. Now I'm going to have to go look.

 

[KahnBB6]

I can't speak to the quality of the factory nuts and studs used on the B58C but at least on a 2JZ (or any turbocharged engine) it's not uncommon to see some rust form on the factory cast steel exhaust manifold/collector and the various cast steel and cast iron parts of the turbocharger system on that side of the engine. Also on the exhaust studs and nuts. The extreme heat generated by the turbo's exhaust side can cause accelerated oxidation of some parts.

Though it shouldn't be enough to be concerned about especially with a brand new car.

It looks like most of the turbo system parts are still very clean apart from the exhaust studs themselves and the cast steel strap that tightens down over the enclosed impeller shaft section of the turbo. Even the exhaust stud nuts seem to be less affected than the studs themselves.

IMO it doesn't look surprising given that there's a turbo and a short collector flowing heat directly against those studs.

 

[KahnBB6]

As an aside, those factory turbo collector studs those are probably use-once items intended to be replaced with new ones (along with a new gasket of whatever design is there) any time the collector manifold is removed. I could be wrong but it is probably what the factory manual will recommend. This is, I believe, also recommended with factory exhaust studs on a JZ engine.

For what it is worth, even the nearly brand new ARP exhaust studs on my 2JZ engine that has little more than 7k miles on it developed some rust due to the heat after enough time, miles and heat/cooling cycles. There is no reason to mess with them until such time as the exhaust manifold ever needs to be removed. I am sure it has to be the same case here.

At such time a heavy spray and coating with PB Blaster penetrating oil would be recommended along with allowing that stuff to soak overnight into the studs and threads in order to better facilitate breaking the nuts loose. I have occasionally had to use a stud extractor tool on extremely old studs that have sat in place for 20+ years.

Basically the exhaust studs on any engine take a lot of abuse. They can look very ugly over time and may require some solvent and a couple of tricks to get them out of there if they've aged enough but I see nothing abnormal in those B58C photos. It looks like a very clean new-ish factory engine to me.

 

[SooopraSD]

Just curious, where are you from?

 

[KahnBB6]

Just curious, where are you from?

You're referring to the OP, correct?

 

[Thraxbert]

Pretty common for a turbo.

 

[Rocksandblues]

makes me want to take a look.

Thinking I will just remove the turbo and run without so i don't have to worry.

 

[Nitroturtle]

Does anyone make a titanium stud replacement kit for these cars? I have them on my Type R and it's a common replacement when doing downpipe/turbo upgrades.

 

[Benjilis]

Just curious, where are you from?

St. Louis MO

 

[Benjilis]

As an aside, those factory turbo collector studs those are probably use-once items intended to be replaced with new ones (along with a new gasket of whatever design is there) any time the collector manifold is removed. I could be wrong but it is probably what the factory manual will recommend. This is, I believe, also recommended with factory exhaust studs on a JZ engine.

For what it is worth, even the nearly brand new ARP exhaust studs on my 2JZ engine that has little more than 7k miles on it developed some rust due to the heat after enough time, miles and heat/cooling cycles. There is no reason to mess with them until such time as the exhaust manifold ever needs to be removed. I am sure it has to be the same case here.

At such time a heavy spray and coating with PB Blaster penetrating oil would be recommended along with allowing that stuff to soak overnight into the studs and threads in order to better facilitate breaking the nuts loose. I have occasionally had to use a stud extractor tool on extremely old studs that have sat in place for 20+ years.

Basically the exhaust studs on any engine take a lot of abuse. They can look very ugly over time and may require some solvent and a couple of tricks to get them out of there if they've aged enough but I see nothing abnormal in those B58C photos. It looks like a very clean new-ish factory engine to me.

I Havnt touched the manifold or messed with it or the turbo. I also so no “play” in any of the assembly.
maybe it’s the weather? I will ask the local Supra’s in the area.
I should have asked the mechanic when I went in for an alignment

 

[Don Alex]

Is there something new here? Mine looks the same. Is that still "normal" or do I have to worry?

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