Several HPDEs in, looking into mild track upgrades

[razorlab]

I bet my crappy little Titan scraper will get it done

Yea that should work. Putty knifes are even thinner.

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[Rob901]

Yea that should work. Putty knifes are even thinner.

@razorlab to the rescue. The putty knife method worked perfect. Highly recommended

 

[kaj]

@razorlab to the rescue. The putty knife method worked perfect. Highly recommended

Some of us assume everyone has such tools laying around LOL.

 

[razorlab]

Some of us assume everyone has such tools laying around LOL.

They cost like $5.00

 

[kaj]

They cost like $5.00

Yeah. But nobody I know has one. So, I sit here thinking, "my brake pads came off super easy. Why is everyone having to much trouble??". Apparently lack of a putty knife is the reason. LOL

 

[Kevo]

I used a MAP torch and a flat head on mine but next time I will try a putty knife.

 

[decodeddiesel]

So at this point I have completed all modifications to the car except my new 18" squared wheels. It was a lot of work to get these parts installed over the last week to get the car ready for tomorrow.

Some notes:

• Paco Motorsports Hubstands are worth every last penny. Great piece of kit. They will work very well with corner scales once I have coilovers on the car.
• I had an alignment done at 300 miles when I swapped the factory PSSs for DWS-06s by a kid at a tire store on a Hunter. After 30k miles and a few events the fronts were way out (toe in by over 1/8").
• The SPL parts use SAE English fittings not metric (annoying).
• Similarly, SPL really could use some better instructions for such expensive parts.
• Of all of the SPL parts I installed the toe lockouts were the biggest PITA.
• Front sway bar install was super easy.
• Dropping the subframe isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. I did it myself. You just have to be sure you unplug EVERYTHING in the rear and be sure it's not being pulled down by the subframe. I almost f'ed my rear ride height sensor because just unplugging it was not enough, it had be completely freed from the subframe. Pull the exhaust valve plug wire too!!!
• The English Cusco RSB directions are very well done, however there is one error. While they do list the replacement fasteners, they don't state that both the upright bolt and rear damper bolt require replacement. They do list the tq spec.
• I totally screwed the very first SS brake line I put on the car and damaged some of the threads on the flare nut. I had to wait 24 hours to fix it so I could get a thread file to fix it so I lost almost all of my brake fluid. I did 3X bleeds with a power bleeder and I'm almost back to normal pedal feel.
• Coilover installation is going to be a breeze after all of this.
• Always always always WASH YOU CAR BEFORE YOU TEAR IT APART! It had been about 10 days since my last wash and it made everything that much dirtier.

 

[razorlab]

So at this point I have completed all modifications to the car except my new 18" squared wheels. It was a lot of work to get these parts installed over the last week to get the car ready for tomorrow.

Some notes:

• Paco Motorsports Hubstands are worth every last penny. Great piece of kit. They will work very well with corner scales once I have coilovers on the car.
• I had an alignment done at 300 miles when I swapped the factory PSSs for DWS-06s by a kid at a tire store on a Hunter. After 30k miles and a few events the fronts were way out (toe in by over 1/8").
• The SPL parts use SAE English fittings not metric (annoying).
• Similarly, SPL really could use some better instructions for such expensive parts.
• Of all of the SPL parts I installed the toe lockouts were the biggest PITA.
• Front sway bar install was super easy.
• Dropping the subframe isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. I did it myself. You just have to be sure you unplug EVERYTHING in the rear and be sure it's not being pulled down by the subframe. I almost f'ed my rear ride height sensor because just unplugging it was not enough, it had be completely freed from the subframe. Pull the exhaust valve plug wire too!!!
• The English Cusco RSB directions are very well done, however there is one error. While they do list the replacement fasteners, they don't state that both the upright bolt and rear damper bolt require replacement. They do list the tq spec.
• I totally screwed the very first SS brake line I put on the car and damaged some of the threads on the flare nut. I had to wait 24 hours to fix it so I could get a thread file to fix it so I lost almost all of my brake fluid. I did 3X bleeds with a power bleeder and I'm almost back to normal pedal feel.
• Coilover installation is going to be a breeze after all of this.
• Always always always WASH YOU CAR BEFORE YOU TEAR IT APART! It had been about 10 days since my last wash and it made everything that much dirtier.

See you tomorrow!

 

[decodeddiesel]

See you tomorrow!

Gonna be an early morning! Track walk by John G (my last instructor, got a sweet Lotus) is at 0700.

This isn't bad for me because after about 0630 or so the roads I have to take are going to be insane with traffic. At 0430 all I have to look out for is deer.

I'm still a little nervous about my brakes. They feel fine on the road and the pedal feels pretty much like it did stock (I think!). Between the pads and lines I'm not sure what to expect from the pedal now. I'm going to bleed the brakes again after driving the car around for 30 minutes or so.

What do you normally do to bed in the Project Mu pads?

 

[RyanA90]

I have my first ever track day next fri 5/19 HPDE1. Spoke to my driving instructor yesterday. Can't wait to see what this Beast58 can do! Sonoma Raceway is the track.

 

[razorlab]

Gonna be an early morning! Track walk by John G (my last instructor, got a sweet Lotus) is at 0700.

This isn't bad for me because after about 0630 or so the roads I have to take are going to be insane with traffic. At 0430 all I have to look out for is deer.

I'm still a little nervous about my brakes. They feel fine on the road and the pedal feels pretty much like it did stock (I think!). Between the pads and lines I'm not sure what to expect from the pedal now. I'm going to bleed the brakes again after driving the car around for 30 minutes or so.

What do you normally do to bed in the Project Mu pads?

I have yearly tech with SCDA so I'll probably be there around 7:30 or so.

If you are worried about still having air in the lines, try and engage ABS a couple times before bleeding again.

For bedding in, I usually do six or so stops from 65-15 or so. I just put on new rotors and pads as well. I haven't had the time to fully bed them in yet so some of my first session will be doing that. lol.

 

[decodeddiesel]

I have yearly tech with SCDA so I'll probably be there around 7:30 or so.

If you are worried about still having air in the lines, try and engage ABS a couple times before bleeding again.

For bedding in, I usually do six or so stops from 65-15 or so. I just put on new rotors and pads as well. I haven't had the time to fully bed them in yet so some of my first session will be doing that. lol.

Cool beans. I've gotten into the ABS quite a few times over the past week and a little today. I've done a number of sequential threshold stops allowing for 10-15 minutes of driving to allow them to cool (I get bored on my way to work). I've caught solid wiffs of brakes several times.

 

[razorlab]

Cool beans. I've gotten into the ABS quite a few times over the past week and a little today. I've done a number of sequential threshold stops allowing for 10-15 minutes of driving to allow them to cool (I get bored on my way to work). I've caught solid wiffs of brakes several times.

Should be good!

We usually park here (area I circled in yellow). Come join us!

 

[Evolution]

Cool beans. I've gotten into the ABS quite a few times over the past week and a little today. I've done a number of sequential threshold stops allowing for 10-15 minutes of driving to allow them to cool (I get bored on my way to work). I've caught solid wiffs of brakes several times.

Vacuum bleed the brake system. Thats what finally got my pedal feeling back to normal.

 

[decodeddiesel]

Vacuum bleed the brake system. Thats what finally got my pedal feeling back to normal.

Good advice! I used my Motive Power Bleeder and bled them 3 or 4 times, then drove it, got into ABS and bled 3 more times. I used up 3 liters of Castrol SRF.

I'm pretty sure at this point there isn't a single drop of Motul left in the system.

Pedal feels good now. I'm going to bleed again after tomorrow before Palmer on the 21st.

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