Discounted brand new Supra. That’s fantastic!! Lemme drive it. I’ll break something else and you can take it to a fun aftermarket BMW shop and make it feel like a Cadillac
Luckily this isn’t an unknown for most places anymore (except Toyota dealers 
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) who tracks M2C drive it around the city. They both daily small BMWs for a long time too. Immediately they were like "yeahhhhhh that's a bmw thing, soft rear subframe bushings" basically they got used to it but still notice it, told me I just need to get used to it. And it is due to where I'm sitting I feel the right rear more, when I sat as passenger the right rear felt less wobbly but left side was more, wide track, short wheelbase, and lever arm is longer when I sit on the opposite from the side that hits the pothole.
yea more toe in, in the rear will make a nice difference in stability. I run 2mm in on each side.So short conclusion is: I'm not used to rear wheels right behind my butt, or should I say soft BMW rear subframe bushings right behind my butt, and too focused on driving a new car over potholes. Maybe add in I'm too pick or sensitive
The other Supra and Z4 I drove was about the same, Z4 was a little better maybe due to extra weight. Lowered tire pressure to 32psi all around, and found it just a little better, best way to describe is the range of small bumps that will trigger it is narrower with 32psi, same conclusion from my friend who drove it for 2 hours the day before. No shipping spacers but was still good advice to check because one dust boot wasnt fully sealed with the white plastic boot retainer
Ended up having the AMOD guy and another Autox guy(who told me to buy a Supra in the first place
They also noted that 0.1 deg toe in the rear (coincidentally 2020 max factory limit) is not much, typically aim for 1/16" (~0.25 deg) toe in for more stability, which is near the factory limit for 2023, so I will have a performance shop align it when I'm out of break-in. On closer look it's weird how the dealer can adjust the right front camber on the supra pretty much without touching anything else on the front end, I didn't think camber was adjustable, so maybe the technican bumped the wheel pods on the alignment machine
I think eventually I would do solid subframe bushings and should help alleviate the issue, but perhaps it really won't be much of an issue when I get used to it, because most of the time on the street it's fine, and when driven hard with more load on the subframe it is stable.
Thanks everyone for the quick suggestions, all helped with peace of mind! Will make an intro post today!
Dude I know exactly what you mean. Even on my 2023... Feels like the rear dances a little bit when it shouldn't, and at tame speeds. Had an alignment done by a Supra GT4 race team to factory specs and didn't make a difference.So short conclusion is: I'm not used to rear wheels right behind my butt, or should I say soft BMW rear subframe bushings right behind my butt, and too focused on driving a new car over potholes. Maybe add in I'm too pick or sensitive
The other Supra and Z4 I drove was about the same, Z4 was a little better maybe due to extra weight. Lowered tire pressure to 32psi all around, and found it just a little better, best way to describe is the range of small bumps that will trigger it is narrower with 32psi, same conclusion from my friend who drove it for 2 hours the day before. No shipping spacers but was still good advice to check because one dust boot wasnt fully sealed with the white plastic boot retainer
Ended up having the AMOD guy and another Autox guy(who told me to buy a Supra in the first place
They also noted that 0.1 deg toe in the rear (coincidentally 2020 max factory limit) is not much, typically aim for 1/16" (~0.25 deg) toe in for more stability, which is near the factory limit for 2023, so I will have a performance shop align it when I'm out of break-in. On closer look it's weird how the dealer can adjust the right front camber on the supra pretty much without touching anything else on the front end, I didn't think camber was adjustable, so maybe the technican bumped the wheel pods on the alignment machine
I think eventually I would do solid subframe bushings and should help alleviate the issue, but perhaps it really won't be much of an issue when I get used to it, because most of the time on the street it's fine, and when driven hard with more load on the subframe it is stable.
Thanks everyone for the quick suggestions, all helped with peace of mind! Will make an intro post today!
I got the car rerealigned yesterday by a performance shop, one of those that ask what specs you want when you drop the car off. Because I felt the front camber was fishy since it isnt adjustable the, and somehow the dealer was able to change it so much, basically the dealer alignment was not accurate. Based on razorlab's suggestion, some research about what partial street and track guys go for on this forum. I gave the specs below:
Is the best thing to reduce toe in at the front, but increase at the rear?thanks for posting the numbers, had mine done today as well.
Toe-in, in the rear, will make the rear much more stable and not want to step out as much.
A lot of people do 0 toe in the front, generally that gives it more turn in, and if you want even more you go toe out (but will wear tires a bit quicker in combination with negative camber). Toe-in on the front (+ values), is for more straightline stability (but reduces turn-in a little), a bit less sensitive to road crown, i live near crappy roads so it does make quite a difference and wife drives it too so a little easier for her. I would say with 0.05 deg it's still a bit finnicky over road crowns compared to 0.10 but turn in is quite nice, so I may try 0.07/8 ish next time
iirc, toe in for the front would just be more understeer. toe out front is quicker turn in (kind of darty), toe in rear is more rear stability, and toe out is less rear stability. I only have sim experience, so may not be 100% true
I was watching one of Misha Chouroudin's earlier videos about Supra alignment (4 years ago), his and along with many others (EU and NA) messaging him saying right rear specifically was off from the factory. I found a few posts in this forum too but mostly about 2020 cars and not many specfically complained about right rear, but plenty still complaining about general alignment being crappy. However based on our cars it still very much looks like something during production isn't accurate enough for the right rear corner, perhaps whatever they are assembling the rear subframe with. I dont think transportation is the main cause because that would be way too consistent for human error.thanks for posting the numbers, had mine done today as well.
