Starting tire pressure?

[TimM.]

There are the sausages still at various turns to watch out for, like T2, T6, T10 etc...!

Ahhh, those yellow things at the apexes. Didn't know the nickname, lol

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[TimM.]

In fact, got to see the sausages this past weekend! Love, love, love Laguna Seca...

 

[gcmak]

In fact, got to see the sausages this past weekend! Love, love, love Laguna Seca...

Awesome! Darn quick even with the traffic. I made it on on the April 17th date!

 

[nibble]

It really is.. I wish I could go back there but it's not easy from east coast..

 

[Suggs.OR]

hey Tim - you're running the two tracks that are local to me that I have gone to as well. Would you mind sharing the fluids and pads you've swapped to (if you like them?). I'm also thinking after my first day at Laguna I'll be wanting the SPL LCAs for the front camber (not sure if other supporting suspension add-ons will be needed?).

thanks in advance, really learning a lot from this thread as a whole.

I did the SPL front lower control arms and there was nothing additional needed from stock.

 

[damnsupra]

i changed to carbotech xp8 and they are horrible, stopping distance is worse than stock... i think i will change to endless

 

[razorlab]

i changed to carbotech xp8 and they are horrible, stopping distance is worse than stock... i think i will change to endless

For track use, CSG C21/C11. For a much cheaper alternative (Basically half the cost), I found the Project Mu Club Racers are pretty good.

Front: PMU-PCR09Z723
Rear: PMU-PCR09Z625

 

[sams2k]

I did the SPL front lower control arms and there was nothing additional needed from stock.

stock sway bar?

 

[Suggs.OR]

stock sway bar?

Up until about 1 month ago yes.

 

[3TMagnetMan]

When I ran the OEM Super Sports, and later the Sport Cup 2’s on the stock suspension, I stayed in the 40-42psi range with good success at lowering times and mitigating some outer front treadeear. Rear camber was adequate keep excessive wear in check but the fronts need more camber and I have the SPLparts LCA’s on order too ( in addition to other spl control links).

There seems to be this train-of-thought that lower tire pressures equal improved traction and performance at the track. There is truth to that at the drag strip but not-so-much on a road course (within limits of course)...

TireRack competition tire pressure guide
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=58

and from “care and feeding of Hoosier R7/A7”... be sure to read the “+Higher pressures...” part highlighted first

The Hoosiers will need much more camber, of course, but the Sport Cup 2’s have survived 4.5hrs of Sears Point and Laguna Seca looking like this at 40-42psi. Sears Point lap times were 1:56-ish, and Laguna was 1:45-ish.

How do you like the Sport Cup 2s ???

 

[sams2k]

For track use, CSG C21/C11. For a much cheaper alternative (Basically half the cost), I found the Project Mu Club Racers are pretty good.

Front: PMU-PCR09Z723
Rear: PMU-PCR09Z625

with stock brake rotors?
did you have any vibrations under hard braking?
did you do a break in for the pads?

i install PMU club racer last week and i have strong vibrations under hard braking, i will try to resurface the brake rotors.

 

[razorlab]

with stock brake rotors?
did you have any vibrations under hard braking?
did you do a break in for the pads?

i install PMU club racer last week and i have strong vibrations under hard braking, i will try to resurface the brake rotors.

With stock rotors and yes, you need to properly bed them in, like any pad.

No need to resurface, just properly bed them in.

 

[sams2k]

With stock rotors and yes, you need to properly bed them in, like any pad.

No need to resurface, just properly bed them in.

how to bed them? what is the best way?

 

[razorlab]

how to bed them? what is the best way?

https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php

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