trash site

[UYCR]

Tl;dr or quick recommendations for new pads

Looking for street grade, no tracks at all, I live in Puerto Rico so its humid/hot, preferably lower dust than manufacturers if possible.

Search the forums and Endless MX72 seems like a great option and bang for buck.

I know they are track pads but I'm running the PMU Clubracers and feel like they dust a bit less than stock. There might be less dusty options but these could be a good tradeoff for the upgraded stopping power.

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[CULaterJimzo]

I know they are track pads but I'm running the PMU Clubracers and feel like they dust a bit less than stock. There might be less dusty options but these could be a good tradeoff for the upgraded stopping power.

Thanks, I have yours and other suggestion just in case these don't work out. iirc i settled with the PowerStop z16 front and rear

 

[dustwhyn]

For those who have tried both the PMu CR and the Hawk DTC 60/30 combo, which did you prefer?

Which had the better initial bite, and which had the most consistent performance and pedal feel throughout the temperature ranges that they’re subjected to?

 

[DC5UPRA]

Thanks, I have yours and other suggestion just in case these don't work out. iirc i settled with the PowerStop z16 front and rear

How you liking the Powerstop Z16? How's the dust?

 

[AHP]

For those who have tried both the PMu CR and the Hawk DTC 60/30 combo, which did you prefer?

Which had the better initial bite, and which had the most consistent performance and pedal feel throughout the temperature ranges that they’re subjected to?

I haven't run the DTC on my Supra but they will definitely have a lot more initial bite. PMU for me on a brake-heavy track are consistent and easy to modulate.

 

[razorlab]

Bite from 60’s and PMU CR are very similar.

 

[Habu]

Pads are here. Project Mu Type HC+ for the front calipers. Endless MX72 plus for the rear calipers. Apparently I’ll have to bed them in even when I think they’ve been bed in.

 

[Bug2th]

Pads are here. Project Mu Type HC+ for the front calipers. Endless MX72 plus for the rear calipers. Apparently I’ll have to bed them in even when I think they’ve been bed in.

While the wheels are off get some 400-600 grit sandpaper and rough them up to take off some of the glaze should speed up the process a bit.

 

[Habu]

While the wheels are off get some 400-600 grit sandpaper and rough them up to take off some of the glaze should speed up the process a bit.

Well alright. Does rubbing them against each other also count?

 

[tomfree]

While the wheels are off get some 400-600 grit sandpaper and rough them up to take off some of the glaze should speed up the process a bit.

If you've had success with that, excellent. Personally, I've had zero success with removing deposits/glaze by hand with sandpaper. There is a 3M product that attaches to a drill with an abrasive that's designed for this - I've yet to try it, but it's in my Amazon shopping cart right now.

Since this has been discussed in this and other threads, bedding in PMu pads is more difficult than others. If you _CAN_ do it, start with fresh rotors for the PMu's.

Edit...this is what's in my Amazon shopping cart: https://www.amazon.com/3M-01411-Sur...a01-b60f-a7fe25ada257&pd_rd_i=B0009IIZGE&th=1

 

[Bug2th]

If you've had success with that, excellent. Personally, I've had zero success with removing deposits/glaze by hand with sandpaper. There is a 3M product that attaches to a drill with an abrasive that's designed for this - I've yet to try it, but it's in my Amazon shopping cart right now.

Since this has been discussed in this and other threads, bedding in PMu pads is more difficult than others. If you _CAN_ do it, start with fresh rotors for the PMu's.

Edit...this is what's in my Amazon shopping cart: https://www.amazon.com/3M-01411-Sur...a01-b60f-a7fe25ada257&pd_rd_i=B0009IIZGE&th=1

Yeah. I think I got lucky with the sanding. Did what I thought was a good bedding but at the track really hard braking caused some studder. But then did some sand paper and next track day was fine. Maybe just time in between days was enough but they are fine now

 

[Habu]

Since this has been discussed in this and other threads, bedding in PMu pads is more difficult than others. If you _CAN_ do it, start with fresh rotors for the PMu's.

I do not plan on changing the oem rotors for now. Maybe in the future.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Garnet paper (low grit sand paper made for rotors) is preferred to remove old brake pad material, glazing, or uneven deposits on old rotors. Make sure you don’t sand too hard or long & inadvertently create an uneven surface. Or you won’t get the full/intended performance from the new pads.

Brand new rotors with new pads do not have these issues. The new rotors come factory prepared, ready to bed. All it takes is one lost track day $$$ to realize just replacing them with new pads is cheaper. At least in our case, with the Supra/Z4.

Some really good sites I found & saved during my misadventures - worth checking out (the 1st one especially - the tabs on the left side - many good topics):

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/myths-of-the-braking-system ?? this one

http://cartechstuff.blogspot.com/2013/03/brake-rotors-part-2.html

 

[AHP]

I do not plan on changing the oem rotors for now. Maybe in the future.

No sense in tossing perfectly good rotors for a pad change, IMO. If/when they start to shudder on track, just power through and it will get better. A rough session or 2 but multiple days/sessions later and zero issues since.

 

[dustwhyn]

Okay, sooo… Just installed my DTC-60 front and DTC-30 rear pads, cleaned everything up, and went to break them in. One note is that they do now fit the wear sensors (I’ve seen it mentioned before that they did not). But I’m getting that god-awful slap sound when I change directions (Forward/reverse) and then brake, which I assume is the front pads shifting back and forth. Is there a remedy for this?

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