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FLtrackdays

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I’ll keep that in mind for next go around. I’m gonna run these until it’s time to change them. However long that may take.
If not tracking, it’ll take a really really long time…. But they stop GREAT!! I put Hawk HPS Plus on my wife’s GTi. She complained at 1st about noise, dust, you name it. Few months went by, I asked if she wanted me to change them back (get some cheap ceramic ones). She emphatically told me she couldn’t imagine going back to softer pads ? ?

Eh. I’m not interested in getting rid of the wear sensors tbh. It’s a street car and the only reason I went this route is because I wanted better stopping power for canyon runs.

The DTCs to squeal and dust like a mofo so far, but I can live with that. My only complaint is the pads shifting on the guide pins so far.
If it’s what’s causing the noise, just saying you wouldn’t be missing much w/out them. Occasionally look at the pad wear. That’s about it. But I get it. To each his own 4 sho ?
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dustwhyn

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If not tracking, it’ll take a really really long time…. But they stop GREAT!! I put Hawk HPS Plus on my wife’s GTi. She complained at 1st about noise, dust, you name it. Few months went by, I asked if she wanted me to change them back (get some cheap ceramic ones). She emphatically told me she couldn’t imagine going back to softer pads ? ?


If it’s what’s causing the noise, just saying you wouldn’t be missing much w/out them. Occasionally look at the pad wear. That’s about it. But I get it. To each his own 4 sho ?
Yeah I mean when they’re cold, they feel like any normal set of brakes to me, but when they even start to get warm and squeaky, they stop the car better than anything I’ve ever used before. Even with light to moderate pedal pressure. I’m almost afraid to put my foot into the pedal more aggressively. ?

Oh, I don’t at all believe the pads shifting on the guide pins is related to the wear sensors at all. It’s doing it on both sides, sometimes at the same time and sometimes at different times. Like @razorlab said, Hawks seem to just be produced with loose specs in the guide pin area. I’m not a fan of that noise but it is what it is. I just prefer keeping any sensors and whatnot that the car came with intact if I’m able.
 

FLtrackdays

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Yeah I mean when they’re cold, they feel like any normal set of brakes to me, but when they even start to get warm and squeaky, they stop the car better than anything I’ve ever used before. Even with light to moderate pedal pressure. I’m almost afraid to put my foot into the pedal more aggressively. ?

Oh, I don’t at all believe the pads shifting on the guide pins is related to the wear sensors at all. It’s doing it on both sides, sometimes at the same time and sometimes at different times. Like @razorlab said, Hawks seem to just be produced with loose specs in the guide pin area. I’m not a fan of that noise but it is what it is. I just prefer keeping any sensors and whatnot that the car came with intact if I’m able.
Gotcha… since you’re keeping them, go out and light em up, get on them and really break them in. Mine always did better after a track day, less noisy. But that’s just me and down here. Hope it gets better for ya!
 

NINaudio

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Ordered a full front/rear set of PMU club racers. Wondering if I should get new rotors too based on what I've read in this thread. What are everyone's thoughts?
 

Traxion

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Ordered a full front/rear set of PMU club racers. Wondering if I should get new rotors too based on what I've read in this thread. What are everyone's thoughts?
Might as well, then you can get them from FCP Euro and start doing the free lifetime warranty thing with them.

Also an update to my PMU club racer saga, after running through my first set my second set seems to be playing a bit nicer.
 

spaghettihoes

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Ordered a full front/rear set of PMU club racers. Wondering if I should get new rotors too based on what I've read in this thread. What are everyone's thoughts?
Definitely get a new set. I went through a massive headache of trying to resurface my old rotors with sandpaper and flexhone and it didn't really work and ended up getting another set of pads and rotors anyways. Unless you're getting the rotors turned on a lathe.
 

Rob_SER

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Ordered a full front/rear set of PMU club racers. Wondering if I should get new rotors too based on what I've read in this thread. What are everyone's thoughts?
Do it. You'll get horrible vibrations if you don't. Learned the hard way last summer
 

FLtrackdays

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Ordered a full front/rear set of PMU club racers. Wondering if I should get new rotors too based on what I've read in this thread. What are everyone's thoughts?
They’re so cheap, why not?
 

Habu

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Definitely get a new set. I went through a massive headache of trying to resurface my old rotors with sandpaper and flexhone and it didn't really work and ended up getting another set of pads and rotors anyways. Unless you're getting the rotors turned on a lathe.
Father is a machinist that can turn it on a lathe probably for me personally.
 

Habu

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I just picked up front rotors for $35 each. Yea bois, keep spending your coin on $1200 2 piece EURODICS

IMG_4633.jpeg
Is there a reason you’re not interested in a slotted or drilled rotor other than the price difference? Or no overheating atm?
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