trash site

[spaghettihoes]

I personally think the cooling gains from slotted or cross drilling are marginal on a ventilated disc. There are issues with cracking on drilled rotors as well. If you're serious about brake cooling it's better to run a brake cooling duct and hosing. Race pads and fluid are fine for 20 minute track sessions even on 200tw tires.

Race pads also chew through rotors so spending more on premium rotors for slightly better cooling or weight savings usually aren't enough to justify the massively increased cost of a wear item. Unless you're actively competing I'd stick with the cheap blank options from Rockauto (or FCP euro) although I'd go for coated rotors.

Tracking is expensive enough as it is.

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[Habu]

I personally think the cooling gains from slotted or cross drilling are marginal on a ventilated disc. There are issues with cracking on drilled rotors as well. If you're serious about brake cooling it's better to run a brake cooling duct and hosing. Race pads and fluid are fine for 20 minute track sessions even on 200tw tires.

Race pads also chew through rotors so spending more on premium rotors for slightly better cooling or weight savings usually aren't enough to justify the massively increased cost of a wear item. Unless you're actively competing I'd stick with the cheap blank options from Rockauto (or FCP euro) although I'd go for coated rotors.

Tracking is expensive enough as it is.

?. I did end up getting a brake duct cooling kit also.

 

[NINaudio]

Yes...

Are you trying to reach the max load capacity for that shelf by storing old rotors on it?

 

[dustwhyn]

I just picked up front rotors for $35 each. Yea bois, keep spending your coin on $1200 2 piece EURODICS

CarQuest special babyyy. These are exactly what I just installed with my DTC pads lol. I bought two full sets as soon as the going out of business sale went live.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Yes...

Damnnnnnnnnnnn……..
And I thought I was ahead of the game by keeping ONE extra set of track consumables. I feel like I‘m barely getting by now, living on the edge with my minimal spare parts… ?

edit: i do have 2 sets of front brake pads… ?

Father is a machinist that can turn it on a lathe probably for me personally.

That‘s good! Unfortunately for most of us it would cost more to do that, than just buy new ones. Plus new rotors would be thicker, last longer, even dissipate more heat having more material…. w/out thinning down the (life) rotor further.

 

[94boosted]

This thread is awesome.

Sounds like the weight penalty from going with a 1 piece fully cast el-cheapo Rock Auto rotor vs. an OEM style two piece (aluminum hat & iron rotor) is not significant?

 

[Bug2th]

Or just go on a diet - you could probably gain a few seconds on the track. It would be easier for me to loose 30-40lbs and cheaper than replacing all the bolts with titanium just to loose a lb.

This thread is awesome.

Sounds like the weight penalty from going with a 1 piece fully cast el-cheapo Rock Auto rotor vs. an OEM style two piece (aluminum hat & iron rotor) is not significant?

 

[spaghettihoes]

This thread is awesome.

Sounds like the weight penalty from going with a 1 piece fully cast el-cheapo Rock Auto rotor vs. an OEM style two piece (aluminum hat & iron rotor) is not significant?

Oddly the shipping/specified weight was nearly identical. Unless you're actively competing the cheap rotors seem to be the way to go for general tracking. After beating on them on track there isn't any noticeable difference in terms of performance or heat tolerance vs oem.

 

[94boosted]

Oddly the shipping/specified weight was nearly identical. Unless you're actively competing the cheap rotors seem to be the way to go for general tracking. After beating on them on track there isn't any noticeable difference in terms of performance or heat tolerance vs oem.

Good catch & good to know. Geospec rotors it is

 

[razorlab]

Good catch & good to know. Geospec rotors it is

I've noticed zero difference with the OEM 2 piece compared to the aftermarket 1 piece. Other then more money for buying beer.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Oddly the shipping/specified weight was nearly identical. Unless you're actively competing the cheap rotors seem to be the way to go for general tracking. After beating on them on track there isn't any noticeable difference in terms of performance or heat tolerance vs oem.

Good catch & good to know. Geospec rotors it is

Yup, Geospec or similar fully coated - rust prone rotors are the way to go. You only buy more expensive ones if you had a vehicle that you are forced to buy ones that are limited production (or getting free one from a sponsor). Many of ”cheaper” rotors are made to exceed OEM standards. Most come from Centric and are rebranded. Economies of scale ? at its best. The cost to weight savings advantage just isn’t there. Similarly I could get lighter pads but they‘d be shaved down, dissipate less heat & wouldn’t last as long. Hence our money should go to best pads & fluid.

 

[afree]

Any thoughts on iSWEEP pads? I have not seen anything about them around here. Seem pretty popular in the BMW world.

https://isweep-tuning.com/brakepad.html

 

[FLtrackdays]

Any thoughts on iSWEEP pads? I have not seen anything about them around here. Seem pretty popular in the BMW world.

https://isweep-tuning.com/brakepad.html

iS4000 appear to be the ones to try on paper. Give em a go and let us know! Are they cheaper than the project mu’s & easier to get? I’ll try a set for you if you’re a vendor & report back

 

[razorlab]

yea those isweep don't look very enticing based on the plots. I also heard they are very hard to get in the USA but I could be wrong.

 

[alfi.mke]

Looking into some new pads with the intention of doing my first track day later this year, but mostly daily driving my Supra.

Any recommendations? Was looking at Club Racers vs hawk hps 5.0.
Also, do I need to buy new wear sensors when changing out the pads?

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