Wireless charger "fix"...for now 🤣

[Joebednar4]

I wonder if the overheating issue form the booster is the phone constantly connecting to the booster (closest, strongest signal) to test if it works, failing, then going back to the regular cellular signal. Then doing that over and over.

Im still gonna unplug mine.

Haaaaaaa! I'll follow you on this one. It has been unplugged for days, and I haven't had issues with signal or overheating. Again, still horribly underpowered, but it doesn't brick the phone anymore, so I'm good!!

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[FlammasWRLD]

Ooh, I hope one you guys tests this out. I really do wonder if registering the signal booster will fix the overheating issue.

 

[Spart]

Ooh, I hope one you guys tests this out. I really do wonder if registering the signal booster will fix the overheating issue.

Registering a signal booster does f*** all, it's just a bureaucratic red tape thing so if people are having issues with their cell service, the FCC (or whoever) can come bug you about it.

Source: have installed many a whole-home/office signal booster.

 

[consultadrone]

I registered mine a while ago (maybe a year) when this first appeared on the forums. I have seen no appreciable difference in cellular performance. My phone gets warm but does not "brick" or thermally shut down.

 

[Spart]

That's the funniest fucking reply, yet 100% facts about being pissed and relieved. I do have a couple year old phone, and it's been working on mine. I hope it works for newer ones, too.

I'm just confused why they'd put the transmit antenna for the booster IN the wireless charging pad.

Wireless charging works through inductive coupling, which is in turn a function of magnetic fields.

Magnetic fields at short distances drop off in strength with the inverse cube law. So your phone must be very close to the pad for the charging to work.

RF from the booster drops off with the inverse square law, just as visible light does. So the distance (especially when talking about the distances achievable inside a car) isn't as important. This is why your Bluetooth continues to work when you get out of the car.

Generally speaking, it's a bad idea to get transmit and receive antennas too close together for RF stuff. Too hot of a signal can cause more problems than too low of a signal.

So who's bright idea was it to put the antenna inside the damn wireless charger? It could be anywhere in the car and work well. In fact, it may be helping to a degree when you have your phone (for instance) in the cupholders.

 

[DarkZupra]

I'm just confused why they'd put the transmit antenna for the booster IN the wireless charging pad.

Wireless charging works through inductive coupling, which is in turn a function of magnetic fields.

Magnetic fields at short distances drop off in strength with the inverse cube law. So your phone must be very close to the pad for the charging to work.

RF from the booster drops off with the inverse square law, just as visible light does. So the distance (especially when talking about the distances achievable inside a car) isn't as important. This is why your Bluetooth continues to work when you get out of the car.

Generally speaking, it's a bad idea to get transmit and receive antennas too close together for RF stuff. Too hot of a signal can cause more problems than too low of a signal.

So who's bright idea was it to put the antenna inside the damn wireless charger? It could be anywhere in the car and work well. In fact, it may be helping to a degree when you have your phone (for instance) in the cupholders.

Can you think of something MORE German than to make something more complicated than it needs to be?

 

[Rensuhlo]

I'm just confused why they'd put the transmit antenna for the booster IN the wireless charging pad.

Wireless charging works through inductive coupling, which is in turn a function of magnetic fields.

Magnetic fields at short distances drop off in strength with the inverse cube law. So your phone must be very close to the pad for the charging to work.

RF from the booster drops off with the inverse square law, just as visible light does. So the distance (especially when talking about the distances achievable inside a car) isn't as important. This is why your Bluetooth continues to work when you get out of the car.

Generally speaking, it's a bad idea to get transmit and receive antennas too close together for RF stuff. Too hot of a signal can cause more problems than too low of a signal.

So who's bright idea was it to put the antenna inside the damn wireless charger? It could be anywhere in the car and work well. In fact, it may be helping to a degree when you have your phone (for instance) in the cupholders.

My brain hurts.

 

[Emspilot]

I registered mine a while ago (maybe a year) when this first appeared on the forums. I have seen no appreciable difference in cellular performance. My phone gets warm but does not "brick" or thermally shut down.

Same.

 

[consultadrone]

I'm just confused why they'd put the transmit antenna for the booster IN the wireless charging pad.

Wireless charging works through inductive coupling, which is in turn a function of magnetic fields.

Magnetic fields at short distances drop off in strength with the inverse cube law. So your phone must be very close to the pad for the charging to work.

RF from the booster drops off with the inverse square law, just as visible light does. So the distance (especially when talking about the distances achievable inside a car) isn't as important. This is why your Bluetooth continues to work when you get out of the car.

Generally speaking, it's a bad idea to get transmit and receive antennas too close together for RF stuff. Too hot of a signal can cause more problems than too low of a signal.

So who's bright idea was it to put the antenna inside the damn wireless charger? It could be anywhere in the car and work well. In fact, it may be helping to a degree when you have your phone (for instance) in the cupholders.

I don't think they actually put the "transmit" antenna in the unit. From the information I was able to dig up, the connection that OP disconnected was the connection to the external antenna...

Laird/Molex roof antenna, Frequency Band:

• ▷ MIMO1 (790-960 MHz), (1710-2170 MHz), (2500-2690 MHz)
• ▷ MIMO2 (790-960 MHz), (1805-2170 MHz), (2550-2690 MHz)
• ▷ GNSS (1571-1606 MHz)
• ▷ DABL (1452-1492 MHz)

 

[Spart]

I don't think they actually put the "transmit" antenna in the unit. From the information I was able to dig up, the connection that OP disconnected was the connection to the external antenna...

Laird/Molex roof antenna, Frequency Band:

• ▷ MIMO1 (790-960 MHz), (1710-2170 MHz), (2500-2690 MHz)
• ▷ MIMO2 (790-960 MHz), (1805-2170 MHz), (2550-2690 MHz)
• ▷ GNSS (1571-1606 MHz)
• ▷ DABL (1452-1492 MHz)

Looks like the usual Fakra connector to me, however the fact that there's only one implies that either the amp and inside antenna are contained in the charging unit, or the amplifier is somewhere else and only the inside antenna is in the unit.

 

[Daemon]

Looks like the usual Fakra connector to me, however the fact that there's only one implies that either the amp and inside antenna are contained in the charging unit, or the amplifier is somewhere else and only the inside antenna is in the unit.

The amp appears to be mounted in the trunk near the subwoofer according to the service manual

 

[Spart]

The amp appears to be mounted in the trunk near the subwoofer according to the service manual

If correct, that's the thing you want to unplug. Cut power to that unit instead of just unplugging one of the antennas.

 

[Daemon]

If correct, that's the thing you want to unplug. Cut power to that unit instead of just unplugging one of the antennas.

I just found one for sale on eBay and that's definitely the part. It looks like the center wire is for power and the other 2 are external/internal antennas

 

[Spart]

I just found one for sale on eBay and that's definitely the part. It looks like the center wire is for power and the other 2 are external/internal antennas

Yup. I see the German name is "LTE Kompensator" - it's in the English service manual as "LTE Compensator" if anyone's looking.

 

[Spart]

Here's a step-by-each from the service manual for removing the amplifier (aka cell booster, cell repeater, LTE Compensator)

Ignore the numbers on the following steps. They're taken from different parts of the manual, but are in the correct order:

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