Supra is pulling to the right after lowering

[Jorge Rodriguez]

mine is the same with H&R springs. I also have aligned it and have 2 sets of wheels and tires.

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[FLtrackdays]

-2 camber front/rear
8 caster
1mm toe in front
2mm toe in rear

Being really picky but have you tried toe neutral in the front?

 

[FLtrackdays]

mine is the same with H&R springs. I also have aligned it and have 2 sets of wheels and tires.

That’s surprising! I know I get way too many alignments. But things get out of whack pretty easily when you install stuff. A really good shop makes a big difference. Have you tried a race shop that is familiar with aftermarket parts?

 

[Todday1]

Do you have the alignment doing out that you can take a pic of and post so we can see it.

 

[Todday1]

Sorry auto correct alignment printout.

 

[a90trackedition]

Check your roll center. Iowered cars throw off the geometry and will need to need adjusted beyond the typical alignment (camber, caster, toe)

 

[FLtrackdays]

Sorry auto correct alignment printout.

I don’t of the latest… It turned into a SPL part workshop between my Hunter alignment shop and SPL. They went back and forth on some of the bolts that came with the parts. Ultimately SPL offered to send me another control arm (sounds crazy but totally forgot!) and my alignment guru went and bought some bolts. SPL was really helpful! I’m going again after my new tie rods are put on and will post it on here. Have an appointment for this Thursday ?

I have Eibach springs and sway bars (front and rear). Will likely do coilovers next season.

This was my previous alignment from another place. Great shop too! But he couldn’t code out the steering angle sensor & said he’d call me when they release the software updates on SnapOn. Another alignment shop I used to use a lot told me the same thing.

 

[UYCR]

-2 camber front/rear
8 caster
1mm toe in front
2mm toe in rear

Usually in the front toe in is not advised. If swapping left/right tires doesn’t fix it I would consider a neutral toe. Going a bit toe out will make it more sensitive to steering wheel input so you might not like that alternative.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Usually in the front toe in is not advised. If swapping left/right tires doesn’t fix it I would consider a neutral toe. Going a bit toe out will make it more sensitive to steering wheel input so you might not like that alternative.

Thinking this exact same thing. Great point

 

[MSport]

Having same issue with H&R. Seems to be the theme

 

[Thraxbert]

Having same issue with H&R. Seems to be the theme

This is not specifically an H&R problem. It's a lowering problem.

Lowering a car intrinsically and negatively compromises the alignment: camber goes more negative, toe goes more in, bumpsteer increases, roll center is pushed down and makes handling unpredictable.

The only way to fix all of this is with an alignment plus a full complement of adjustable control arms that can correct all the angles. The OEM Supra control arms do not offer complete control of the alignment, so there are some issues that can occur:

1. OEM front camber cannot be controlled, so one side may be cambered more than another. Car will pull.

2. Thrust angle may become off, leaving the car in a natural state where the full body is pointing ahead left or ahead right by a few degrees. Car will pull.

3. You'll feel more bumpsteer. Dips and divots on the road will pull your steering wheel in your hands.

4. Lowering a car can also change front caster, meaning one wheel is ahead of the other by 1-2 degrees. This will also make the car naturally inclined to drift.

A good OEM alignment can fix most of these issues and leave the car pretty drivable. But all cars need a full complement of adjustable control arms, plus roll center correction in the front, to fix all of them. This is the risk you run of just slapping springs on and sending it.

 

[MSport]

This is not specifically an H&R problem. It's a lowering problem.

Lowering a car intrinsically and negatively compromises the alignment: camber goes more negative, toe goes more in, bumpsteer increases, roll center is pushed down and makes handling unpredictable.

The only way to fix all of this is with an alignment plus a full complement of adjustable control arms that can correct all the angles. The OEM Supra control arms do not offer complete control of the alignment, so there are some issues that can occur:

1. OEM front camber cannot be controlled, so one side may be cambered more than another. Car will pull.

2. Thrust angle may become off, leaving the car in a natural state where the full body is pointing ahead left or ahead right by a few degrees. Car will pull.

3. You'll feel more bumpsteer. Dips and divots on the road will pull your steering wheel in your hands.

4. Lowering a car can also change front caster, meaning one wheel is ahead of the other by 1-2 degrees. This will also make the car naturally inclined to drift.

A good OEM alignment can fix most of these issues and leave the car pretty drivable. But all cars need a full complement of adjustable control arms, plus roll center correction in the front, to fix all of them. This is the risk you run of just slapping springs on and sending it.

I did do a full oem. Maybe the common theme is H&R just because they are popular but I haven’t seen another spring mentioned with this issue. However I’m not disputing everything you wrote. It’s just a theme is all.

 

[Nocturnal]

Are the ride heights consistent left to right? Maybe one side is slightly different height causing different dynamic toe changes

 

[racebuild]

Did they weigh the car down for the alignment? If not, find a place that will, or a place that will let you sit in the car during the alignment.

 

[jchadwell]

This is not specifically an H&R problem. It's a lowering problem.

Lowering a car intrinsically and negatively compromises the alignment: camber goes more negative, toe goes more in, bumpsteer increases, roll center is pushed down and makes handling unpredictable.

The only way to fix all of this is with an alignment plus a full complement of adjustable control arms that can correct all the angles. The OEM Supra control arms do not offer complete control of the alignment, so there are some issues that can occur:

1. OEM front camber cannot be controlled, so one side may be cambered more than another. Car will pull.

2. Thrust angle may become off, leaving the car in a natural state where the full body is pointing ahead left or ahead right by a few degrees. Car will pull.

3. You'll feel more bumpsteer. Dips and divots on the road will pull your steering wheel in your hands.

4. Lowering a car can also change front caster, meaning one wheel is ahead of the other by 1-2 degrees. This will also make the car naturally inclined to drift.

A good OEM alignment can fix most of these issues and leave the car pretty drivable. But all cars need a full complement of adjustable control arms, plus roll center correction in the front, to fix all of them. This is the risk you run of just slapping springs on and sending it.

This is a bit of an oversimplification and exaggeration. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not really disagreeing with your observations. The problem is all these problems, while definitely real, do not typically start becoming a problem until a car starts to approach “slammed” status. For the vast majority of us, me included, who only conservatively lower our cars, we have none of these issues. In most cases, OEM parts have sufficient adjustability to address the changes that happen when we slap on a set of lowering springs and proceed to send it. We’ve been lowering cars an inch or inch and a half or so forever without issue. And there are a bunch of us on this forum that have done so with our Supras without issue. There is something specific to this car and I seriously doubt it’s a more broad “lowering problem” unless H and R springs drop the car by an excessive amount.

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