SUPRA ULTIMATE B58 JB4 GUIDE AND LOG REVIEW (V1)

[ColonelAdama]

Man gotta say meth is looking real tempting hahaaha
Would you recommend the AEM kit or the snow performance? Price difference is huge so not gonna spend the extra cash if it’s the same thing essentially.

This is what he is running (options shown) + charge pipe:

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[Got_M]

Man gotta say meth is looking real tempting hahaaha
Would you recommend the AEM kit or the snow performance? Price difference is huge so not gonna spend the extra cash if it’s the same thing essentially.

The only thing I would be cognizant of is if you get the burger meth kit, You will also want a charge pipe with multiple bungs. I used the one from Burger as well. It integrates and tunes rather nicely!
I have been rather happy with the setup but if you take it a step further and go away from JB4 you will likely want the snow/aem kit. (long term plan for the car?)

The one downfall of the Burger kit is the housing for the meth won't fit under the hood like the AEM/Titan kit.

Edit: Car made 466whp. Assuming would have been a bit more if catless. Made over 100whp from stock to custom tuned/meth.

 

[a90Omen]

Hey Colonel, mind checking out my logs for my 23 MT with CTS Catless downpipe? I've been stalking this and many other of your threads where you are helping others so I know enough to be dangerous, but not enough to be accurate...

I did a stock JB4 settings pull on Map 1 with everything else at default. I then did a half pull with the recommended duty bias adjustment for catless before hitting speeds that I shouldn't be in city limits. I really want to jump to Map 2 and start dialing in duty bias there if Map 1 looks good, but I'll continue with Map 1 duty bias adjustments (and whatever other adjustments) if you think that's best. I can see the throttle closures look about the same despite the duty bias changes.

Also throwing in for anyone else following, I had a 2020 MHD OTS E30 Supra for 3 years and this MT is an entirely different feeling car in a good way.

Edit: Got excited and forgot to link the logs https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/log-1718744997?log=1&data=1-4

Edit 2: Realized I'm used to the AT suggested shift point of 6500... here's a full 7k pull of Map 1 with the suggested catless duty bias: https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/log-1718762085?log=0&data=1-4

 

[NotWue_]

The only thing I would be cognizant of is if you get the burger meth kit, You will also want a charge pipe with multiple bungs. I used the one from Burger as well. It integrates and tunes rather nicely!
I have been rather happy with the setup but if you take it a step further and go away from JB4 you will likely want the snow/aem kit. (long term plan for the car?)

The one downfall of the Burger kit is the housing for the meth won't fit under the hood like the AEM/Titan kit.

Edit: Car made 466whp. Assuming would have been a bit more if catless. Made over 100whp from stock to custom tuned/meth.

Yea I’m actually looking to go either mhd+ or bm3 maybe in the next 2 months. So I want something that can also be used with either of those platforms. Thank you for the heads up!
just waiting to see how that pure900 coming out performs!

 

[ColonelAdama]

Hey Colonel, mind checking out my logs for my 23 MT with CTS Catless downpipe? I've been stalking this and many other of your threads where you are helping others so I know enough to be dangerous, but not enough to be accurate...

I did a stock JB4 settings pull on Map 1 with everything else at default. I then did a half pull with the recommended duty bias adjustment for catless before hitting speeds that I shouldn't be in city limits. I really want to jump to Map 2 and start dialing in duty bias there if Map 1 looks good, but I'll continue with Map 1 duty bias adjustments (and whatever other adjustments) if you think that's best. I can see the throttle closures look about the same despite the duty bias changes.

Also throwing in for anyone else following, I had a 2020 MHD OTS E30 Supra for 3 years and this MT is an entirely different feeling car in a good way.

Edit: Got excited and forgot to link the logs https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/log-1718744997?log=1&data=1-4

Edit 2: Realized I'm used to the AT suggested shift point of 6500... here's a full 7k pull of Map 1 with the suggested catless duty bias: https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/log-1718762085?log=0&data=1-4

I have no good explanation for it, but your Map 1 on default settings looked best ?

I'll definitely be trying out Firmware V19 like you have to see if I can recreate those results.

 

[ColonelAdama]

I try to post some good examples of logs that are dialed in so yall know what to look for.

Here is a catless '22 3.0 on E30 running +5.1psi additive and getting the most out of this setup.

• Trims between 40-45, and very flat across the pull
  • Indicates the boost levels and E-mix are not overloading the DME fueling map
• Timing is very nearly perfect (one log with 1 cyl separation)
  • Indicates the boost levels are appropriate for the octane
• Throttle activity is clean (it is normal for it to close some as spooling ends on V22 firmware)
  • Indicates the wastegate tuning (FF/Duty) is spot on.

https://datazap.me/u/coloneladama/l...-3-4-9-11-14-25-26-27-28-29&solo=9&zoom=35-63

Shoutout A91ish on JB4tech, I know you are here too. Great job getting your own car dialed.

 

[Timmy_Jones]

Has anyone figured out how to NOT control the exhaust flap with the JB4?

I noticed when switching back to the OEM exhaust it would NOT open in sport unless I did the trick shown in the video above. Would prefer the sport mode button to dictate open/close.

 

[i3igpete]

Has anyone figured out how to NOT control the exhaust flap with the JB4?

when you switch back to OEM operation, you need to shut down the car to get it to save for whatever reason. I physically got out of the car and locked it to make sure it would stick. Disabled the BC button operation in the jb4 menu after I figured that out.

 

[Timmy_Jones]

when you switch back to OEM operation, you need to shut down the car to get it to save for whatever reason. I physically got out of the car and locked it to make sure it would stick. Disabled the BC button operation in the jb4 menu after I figured that out.

ah crap! Where is that setting in the JB4 app? I don't see it! I think I could cycle left blinker, right blinker and then both blinkers. Do I need the Both Blinker flash, shut off car?

 

[Evolution]

ah crap! Where is that setting in the JB4 app? I don't see it! I think I could cycle left blinker, right blinker and then both blinkers. Do I need the Both Blinker flash, shut off car?

Both flash, then shut off car.

 

[ColonelAdama]

ah crap! Where is that setting in the JB4 app? I don't see it! I think I could cycle left blinker, right blinker and then both blinkers. Do I need the Both Blinker flash, shut off car?

Setting is under options in "user adjustment". I believe it is Bit 0.

 

[a90Omen]

@ColonelAdama If you could spare some time, this time Map 2 with your (found somewhere in this thread) updated duty bias settings for catless MT cars. Did a bit of idling at the end too just to get a better picture of how the car behaves on Map 2.

https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/map-2-0?log=0&data=1-4-5-8-9-11-12-20

Butt dyno says Map 1 with no duty bias adjustment does run better than this current setup, but my goal is Map 2 on 93, or even Map 5 with E (which is readily available, and a future goal once I get a sensor) if it's easier to get dialed in than Map 2. I don't want to waste your time having you help me dial in Map 2 if it might be better to just switch to Map 5 and run E to clean things up, but I didn't want to switch over to E until I saw how Map 2 was treating my car. What do you suggest? Dial in Map 2 before trying Map 5, or just jump to Map 5 and start dialing it in there?

I don't know enough to be accurate but I know enough to be dangerous so forgive me if I horribly misspeak here but... based on what I've read through this and your other forums it looks like my wgdc might be too high and the throttle closure at 5k RPM (overboost?) is causing timing to be pulled which isn't what we want right? Timing does seem to be all over the place compared to the logs of yours I've been spying on which shows more consistent climbs. That's where I'm saying if it's easier to clean that up with some E30 on Map 5, well I ran E in my last Supra and would love to again, lets see if that helps. Otherwise if it's better to dial in Map 2 and try it out for awhile before doing Map 5+E then lets do that instead. I'm content with where the power is at right now, but I absolutely want to see how Map 5 compares to my prior MHD E30 AT Supra.

 

[ColonelAdama]

@ColonelAdama If you could spare some time, this time Map 2 with your (found somewhere in this thread) updated duty bias settings for catless MT cars. Did a bit of idling at the end too just to get a better picture of how the car behaves on Map 2.

https://datazap.me/u/a90omen/map-2-0?log=0&data=1-4-5-8-9-11-12-20

Butt dyno says Map 1 with no duty bias adjustment does run better than this current setup, but my goal is Map 2 on 93, or even Map 5 with E (which is readily available, and a future goal once I get a sensor) if it's easier to get dialed in than Map 2. I don't want to waste your time having you help me dial in Map 2 if it might be better to just switch to Map 5 and run E to clean things up, but I didn't want to switch over to E until I saw how Map 2 was treating my car. What do you suggest? Dial in Map 2 before trying Map 5, or just jump to Map 5 and start dialing it in there?

I don't know enough to be accurate but I know enough to be dangerous so forgive me if I horribly misspeak here but... based on what I've read through this and your other forums it looks like my wgdc might be too high and the throttle closure at 5k RPM (overboost?) is causing timing to be pulled which isn't what we want right? Timing does seem to be all over the place compared to the logs of yours I've been spying on which shows more consistent climbs. That's where I'm saying if it's easier to clean that up with some E30 on Map 5, well I ran E in my last Supra and would love to again, lets see if that helps. Otherwise if it's better to dial in Map 2 and try it out for awhile before doing Map 5+E then lets do that instead. I'm content with where the power is at right now, but I absolutely want to see how Map 5 compares to my prior MHD E30 AT Supra.

Map 1 probably felt better since timing fell off hard at 5500 on map 2. Try this Map 6 that tapers off boost on the upper end a bit to run better timing

Also would probably drop FF a bit (~2-3) and see if it improves the throttle cuts.

map6_15	map6_20	map6_25	map6_30	map6_35	map6_40	map6_45	map6_50	map6_55	map6_60	map6_65	map6_70
1.5​	2.0​	2.5​	3.0​	3.5​	4.0​	4.0​	4.0​	3.5​	3.0​	2.5​	2.0​

you would see power gains just putting 2-3 gal of E in the tank right now on Map 2

 

[“I’m keeping this stock”]

Hey Adam,
Just installed a jb4 today on my 23’ MT 3.0. I’m in Hawaii, and am limited to 92 with no e85 available. Mind taking a look at the 3 logs I took? I’m not chasing power, reliability is my main focus and I don’t plan on going any higher than map 1. Mods are catted AA downpipe, RK catback, and an MST intake. Do these look safe to continue on with?
https://datazap.me/u/absolute49/23’-mt-supra-map-1?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-16-18&solo=4-18

 

[ColonelAdama]

Hey Adam,
Just installed a jb4 today on my 23’ MT 3.0. I’m in Hawaii, and am limited to 92 with no e85 available. Mind taking a look at the 3 logs I took? I’m not chasing power, reliability is my main focus and I don’t plan on going any higher than map 1. Mods are catted AA downpipe, RK catback, and an MST intake. Do these look safe to continue on with?
https://datazap.me/u/absolute49/23’-mt-supra-map-1?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-16-18&solo=4-18

Safe? sure, but its definitely not running well at all. Let me get you a better baseline, I'll send a PM. I Just finished another MT, coincidentally with similar mods and in Hawaii on the same fuel, so we'll start from there.

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