3 year maintenance Brake fluid/pad and rear differential fluid

[BA9092]

I went ahead and got a more specific LiPO4 charger that's able to wake the battery if the BMS is activated, since I have two of them. Looked like you had something similar on the PowerTex battery thread.

I had the CTEK Lithium US charger/tender since replacing the battery. Been working great so far. Plus, it takes care of the BMS.

"The operation is simple and charging will commence upon connection. With no need to disconnect the battery from the vehicle, at charge start the LITHIUM US will automatically reset any low voltage protection electronics (Battery Management System) fitted. Charging can be restarted manually at any time using the 'Reset' button."

https://smartercharger.com/products/ctek-lithium-us

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[DR.COKE]

About the price, OEM battery SEEMS to last an average of 3ish years. That’s how long mine did even with a tender being used. I went with Antigravity and it cost about $1,000 with a stated life of 10+ years. I could get an OEM battery from my local dealership for around $500. So my math was $500 now, then again in 3 years, then again in 3 years, then again in 3 years. So I could pay $2,000 within the next 9 years or $1,000 for the next 10+ years. Easy decision if you are keeping the car for longer than even just 3 more years. (Obviously a lot of factors can and probably will affect those numbers but you get the idea.)

Direct from antigravity site, looks like our battery warranty replacement is 3 years and prorated to 5 years.
https://antigravitybatteries.com/downloads/AG-Warranty-ClaimForm-Automotive-Batteries.pdf

just checking Costco looks like our battery is listed as H9 95R AMG $270. Most likely go with this approach solely because they are literally 1 mile from me and amazing 3 year warranty. If you return the battery under 3 years old they will completely refund you and you buy new battery. They did not check on battery health, just checked the model number match recipe. I just did this a month ago on my Acura. Hard to beat local service.

 

[afree]

1) Rockauto.com or your local auto parts store, ceramic pads will be low dust and work just fine if not tracking/repeated threshold braking
2) Castrol SRF. That high wet boiling temp can’t be beat. Well worth the $60 bucks
3) Motul 105777 GEAR 300 75W90 100% Synthetic Gear Tans Diff Oil (2 Liter) 2 Pack https://a.co/d/14puLx3
4) PowerTex Batteries BCI Group 94R / H7 Lithium LiFePO4 - you’ll pay a little bit more but it’s lighter, last way longer, less susceptible to heat degradation, night and day difference on startup
https://powertexbatteries.com/produ...ium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4-automotive-battery

Why not the 105778 (LS version)?

 

[FLtrackdays]

Why not the 105778 (LS version)?

Since we have a limited slip differential, that oil would be perfect! I’ll use it next time. Good question though afree

Edit: I forgot why I used the GL-4 and 5 (w/out the extra LS modifiers) one Turner Motorsports and others recommended. But thx to Bryan, I didn’t use ?

 

[razorlab]

Since we have a limited slip differential, that oil would be perfect! I’ll use it next time. Thank afree

No, do not use the LS version.

 

[afree]

No, do not use the LS version.

Why?

The Motul site says LS version is the one to use for the Supra: https://www.motul.com/en-US/lubricants/recommendations/144627

 

[Carbon0]

No, do not use the LS version.

I just replaced with 300 LS. Please tell me I don't need to do it again lol.

 

[BA9092]

Yes, please enlighten us.

I was advised to use Motul Gear 300 LS 75W-90 (#105778) by a handful of BMW performance shops, both locally and online as well as by Motul themselves.

It wasn't difficult or expensive, so if I have to do it again with something else, I totally wouldn't mind. Especially at the risk of using the improper product by something I missed during my research.

I trust most of you guys here more than the local Toyota dealership when it comes to this car specifically. Even then I find myself second guessing between opinions and facts.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I just replaced with 300 LS. Please tell me I don't need to do it again lol.

I personally doubt it’d be harmful with non track use. Especially once you let it warm up. In fact, like Christian said many recommend it (despite wrongfully so) not knowing ours isn’t a standard LSD. If you plan on tracking, stick to the OEM or Motul’s 105777. If switching, make sure all the 105778 is completely out of the system, they are not compatible. Many online videos explain how and experienced shops will know how to do it.

No, do not use the LS version.

Yeah I spoke too quickly. Good point Bryan. If forgot shop I used advised against it after you explained it elsewhere. Lemme know if I got this right. Or at least partially right, lol. Using the LS (105778) could cause compatibility issues with our Electro-Mechanical LSD (eLSD).

The electro-mechanical LSD combines mechanical components with electronic torque vectoring. The electronic components and clutch packs need precise friction characteristics (minus modifiers), OEM or the Motul 105777 to operate correctly. The 105778 (Motul Gear 300 LS) contains friction modifiers for traditional (older style) mechanical LSDs, which is suggested they may interfere with the electronic torque vectoring system. All this could potentially lead to performance issues, premature wear, chatter, error codes, and lastly some mention cold weather stiffness or clunking until the fluid warms up.

 

[afree]

I personally doubt it’d be harmful with non track use. Especially once you let it warm up. In fact, like Christian said many recommend it (despite wrongfully so) not knowing ours isn’t a standard LSD. If you plan on tracking, stick to the OEM or Motul’s 105777. If switching, make sure all the 105778 is completely out of the system, they are not compatible. Many online videos explain how and experienced shops will know how to do it.


Yeah I spoke too quickly. Good point Bryan. If forgot shop I used advised against it after you explained it elsewhere. Lemme know if I got this right. Or at least partially right, lol. Using the LS (105778) could cause compatibility issues with our Electro-Mechanical LSD (eLSD).

The electro-mechanical LSD combines mechanical components with electronic torque vectoring. The electronic components and clutch packs need precise friction characteristics (minus modifiers), OEM or the Motul 105777 to operate correctly. The 105778 (Motul Gear 300 LS) contains friction modifiers for traditional (older style) mechanical LSDs, which is suggested they may interfere with the electronic torque vectoring system. All this could potentially lead to performance issues, premature wear, chatter, error codes, and lastly some mention cold weather stiffness or clunking until the fluid warms up.

This still doesn't add up to me. While its electronically controlled, it still has clutches to engage/disengage like other LSDs.

Literally every other manufacturer I've looked up (Motul, Ravenol, Redline etc) says its for LS. Even the Supra manual BMW/Hypoid G4 fluid is spec'd for LSDs.

 

[FLtrackdays]

This still doesn't add up to me. While its electronically controlled, it still has clutches to engage/disengage like other LSDs.

Literally every other manufacturer I've looked up (Motul, Ravenol, Redline etc) says its for LS. Even the Supra manual BMW/Hypoid G4 fluid is spec'd for LSDs.

A lot of controversy around this one. Many say it’s okay and recommended it. But to be on the safer side, I asked back when I replaced mine because Turner MS sells the 105777, which works for both GL-4 & 5.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-MZ4/c-1234-bmw-transmission-and-differential-fluid

Also was brought up on another tread ?

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/transmission-and-differential-fluid-change.6893/page-4

I also threw it into a multiple AI engine that checks others for discrepancies. Here’s what it spit out:

”Motul Gear 300 LS (105778) contains elevated friction modifiers (≥ 3.5% MOS2) that conflict with the electronic LSD’s preload calibration, potentially causing chatter during low-speed maneuvers.

Conclusion

The 2022 Toyota Supra 3.0’s differential unequivocally requires GL-5 75W-85/90 gear oil to meet its hypoid gear protection and electronic LSD compatibility needs. While aftermarket GL-4/GL-5 dual-rated fluids like Motul Gear 300 are acceptable, LS-specific formulations should be avoided. Adherence to Toyota’s 08885-02606 specification ensures optimal performance and preserves warranty coverage. For track-driven vehicles, reduce service intervals to 15,000–20,000 miles and monitor fluid condition using spectroscopy analysis.”

 

[afree]

A lot of controversy around this one. Many say it’s okay and recommended it. But to be on the safer side, I asked back when I replaced mine because Turner MS sells the 105777, which works for both GL-4 & 5.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-MZ4/c-1234-bmw-transmission-and-differential-fluid

Also was brought up on another tread ?

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/transmission-and-differential-fluid-change.6893/page-5

I also threw it into a multiple AI engine that checks others for discrepancies. Here’s what it spit out:

”Motul Gear 300 LS (105778) contains elevated friction modifiers (≥ 3.5% MOS2) that conflict with the electronic LSD’s preload calibration, potentially causing chatter during low-speed maneuvers.

Conclusion

The 2022 Toyota Supra 3.0’s differential unequivocally requires GL-5 75W-85/90 gear oil to meet its hypoid gear protection and electronic LSD compatibility needs. While aftermarket GL-4/GL-5 dual-rated fluids like Motul Gear 300 are acceptable, LS-specific formulations should be avoided. Adherence to Toyota’s 08885-02606 specification ensures optimal performance and preserves warranty coverage. For track-driven vehicles, reduce service intervals to 15,000–20,000 miles and monitor fluid condition using spectroscopy analysis.”

Interesting, thanks!

 

[BA9092]

Hmmm. Very interesting. Thank you for the clarification, Mark.

I don't do any tracking, so hopefully I can wait to change it when the weather gets warmer.

 

[tracer bullet]

What are you guys doing for the bolt that holds that damper which is in the way of getting to the plugs in the diff? Looks to be 28Nm / 21 ft lbs, but says to replace it (there's a dot by it in one image, and step a for getting it back together says to replace it). I find that odd. No way it's stretched or anything.

Elsewhere I'd mentioned that the rear subframe bolts didn't get replaced on BMW's but the Supra manual said they should be. Toyota seems to love to replace bolts?

 

[FLtrackdays]

Robert (Thraxbert) has a list for all the bolts needed to dropping the subframe:

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/oem-suspension-bolt-kit.17261

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