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That I’m not sure on. You’ll have to figure out how you wanna handle it. That’s the nature of mixing parts from different companies.

Yes. Just make sure you get the correct size for whatever fuel lines you’re using.

Evil Energy on Amazon sells these for cheap. Looks like it’ll serve your intended purpose.

I asked @razorlab and he told me to tell you that you need to hit it with your purse.

Have you reached out to ProTuningFreaks support? They have a support portal with an entire team to help sort through issues like this. https://bootmod3.atlassian.net/servicedesk/customer/portals

The only reason I got triggered was because rottmore acted like a cunt right off the bat. Just because you want to assert your thoughts doesn’t give you the right to be a disrespectful ass about it. Either come correct and bring on the data, or not at all. If he had done so, we wouldn’t be...

I am not even going to entertain your dumbassery.

Called it.

5-8K at absolute best. Beyond that they’ll be useless for anything other than an extremely hot day.

Look into DocRace and Spool as well. I know there are people here who will hate on the log style manifold that the Spool uses, ignore them. In real world usage the difference is negligible.

Put the car up on a lift with the trans in neutral and the parking brake engaged. Rock the guibo on the diff side back and forth. If it seems like there’s an excessive amount of movement (It should be very minimal, like less than 1/2 an inch of movement from side to side), it’s most likely that...

For what it’s worth, I never had a single issue with my Pure900 on my last car and I beat the piss out of it every time I drove the car. Anybody and everybody I know who has one of Pure’s new “cast” models that are no longer “hybrids” in the old sense of upgrading OEM turbos has been satisfied...

The best course of action here is to reach out to Jordan since he wired it.

Not at all. It’s VERY tedious and there’s a potential to fuck everything related to camshaft timing up if you don’t know what you’re doing and take necessary precautions.

FWIW, the only adapter that’s never given me a single issue is the MHD Universal one. Manually set your IP to 192.168.4.2 (Lowest assignable IP, 4.1 is reserved for the configuration panel.) and your Subnet Mask to 255.255.255.0 and it’ll connect instantly every time without issue. This new...

Make sure your device is not connected to WiFi/CarPlay/Bluetooth and hop into Settings/Ethernet and wait for the IP to populate. Once you see it populate, you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, disconnect the negative terminal on your battery for 5-10 minutes to reset the vehicle’s network.

Today’s app update brought a firmware update that’s supposed to help with this. Haven’t tried it myself yet.

I didn’t say anything about dyno numbers. Also, get rid of that fucking attitude when someone asks a simple question.

What are your numbers looking like? I haven’t really seen anyone post 6769 numbers on kill.

This.