2023 MT Supra Clutch Replacement Options

[barry_ps3]

Ill add to this convo. Have a 6MT. CDV delete + PTB DMF O/O/S clutch setup. 1-->2 and 2-->3 require almost muscling it into gear when doing WOT pulls. On top of that, Ive also found that when drifting, I am locked into gear. If I start a donut or corner in gears 1 or 2, I physically cannot get to another gear while mid slide. If I start in 1 I can only be in 1, and the same for gear 2.

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[Eastwood]

Ill add to this convo. Have a 6MT. CDV delete + PTB DMF O/O/S clutch setup. 1-->2 and 2-->3 require almost muscling it into gear when doing WOT pulls. On top of that, Ive also found that when drifting, I am locked into gear. If I start a donut or corner in gears 1 or 2, I physically cannot get to another gear while mid slide. If I start in 1 I can only be in 1, and the same for gear 2.

How is it for normal day to day driving? Maybe a quick fun drive here and there?

 

[barry_ps3]

How is it for normal day to day driving? Maybe a quick fun drive here and there?

Drives like stock clutch. Same pressure same feel. Just the clutch engages lower closer to the floor.

 

[FitmentIndustries]

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a 2023 A91-MT, and I’m running a Catless downpipe, magnaflow exhaust, and a cold air intake. I also had the ECU partially unlocked by Femto and I’m running BM3 Stage 2 91 tune.

Currently my clutch is slipping when doing hard pulls and I need to replace the clutch.

Im trying to see what options I have for aftermarket clutches but from what I can tell the market is pretty limited. I’m not looking for a 1000 HP rated dual disk clutch. I’m looking for something to handle around 700 torque maybe at most, as I will probably only do flex fuel with port injection and E-85 tune.

I’m not tracking the car either so a spring clutch would probably be best from what I’ve been reading online

I’m looking for recommendations on opinions and options, or if someone has experience and can recommend something that would be great.

Also, should I do an aluminum or steel flywheel?

I don’t have any experience in this topic as I have never replaced a clutch for something aftermarket in any of the manual cars I’ve driven before as I left them all stock.

Thanks

Before you buy anything, make sure it's actually the disc and not the dual mass flywheel letting go. Rattle at idle or shudder on takeoff alongside the slipping points at the DMF.
Search B58 manual applications instead of Supra and the options open up, since the box is BMW. For your power level look at ClutchMasters FX250 or FX350, SPEC Stage 2, or South Bend and Competition Clutch for the value play. Stay sprung hub, organic or carbon kevlar. Skip puck style, they chatter and dump shock load into the input shaft.


Flywheel, go steel single mass, mildly lighter than stock. Aluminum wakes up throttle response but the noise and hill starts get old on a street car. While you're in there, new concentric slave cylinder, new pilot bearing, check the rear main seal, and make sure the hydraulics get bled properly.


Size it for the 700 you're planning, not where you are now, or you'll do the job twice. And do the full 500 mile break in before you pull on it.

 

[Mayday]

@Mayday or @Hasan - Just wondering if either of you guys pursued your shifting issues? If so what solved it (if solved). Or if you just live with it.

I'm all on board with it being a clutch bleed to solve it, and happy to be wrong about a synchro issue, just curious for future reference.

Nothing yet. I did already buy the OEM BMW MTF-LT-5 though, so my next step is to completely drain the Motul 75W-90 that's currently in the transmission and refill it with the OEM fluid.

I want to try that first and see if it makes any difference to the 2nd → 3rd / 3rd → 2nd shift feel. I'll definitely update the thread once I've changed it and had some time to drive the car.

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