sanh12
Member
yeah, except what’s a silent code? Sorry for the questions this is my first time doing audio in a car an wasn’t sure to expect codes or not.No worries you can go back and edit your post. Was your question answered?
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yeah, except what’s a silent code? Sorry for the questions this is my first time doing audio in a car an wasn’t sure to expect codes or not.No worries you can go back and edit your post. Was your question answered?
Codes that don't trow a cel, they cause no harm.I’m referring to a custom sub box, we’re making a custom box this weekend and removing the old subs and disconnecting the amp and connecting a single 12” with an after market amp. Also sorry what’s a silent code?
hz i’m not a 100% but it’s a 1500 watt amp, and i have a lc2i audio converter adapter that’s about all. I’m not too sure how to check how many hz but the sub specifications says 25-250hz and the amp also says between 20-250hz.Codes that don't trow a cel, they cause no harm.
Couple concerns with this method. What Hz will the new subs play and are you adding a MOST25 adapter and DSP?
Ok...so.. to use the LC2i the factory amp needs to stay put. Have your installer tap into the post amp speaker wiring.hz i’m not a 100% but it’s a 1500 watt amp, and i have a lc2i audio converter adapter that’s about all. I’m not too sure how to check how many hz but the sub specifications says 25-250hz and the amp also says between 20-250hz.
Interesting, so there’s no way to completely remove the whole stock set up as in subs and amp and put the aftermarket ones in without having issues?Ok...so.. to use the LC2i the factory amp needs to stay put. Have your installer tap into the post amp speaker wiring.
Also by removing the oem subs you are cutting out not only the sub bass but also the mid range bass. The front speakers do not play lower frequencies due to the 4" size. Your installer may have some tools on hand to see what Hz will be cut out. But I can tell you adding those frequencies back in to the new subs will leave an undesirable effect.
What else do I need? I have the lc2i and the bass knob for it should I get a 4 channel amp and the lc7i?Yes there is a way without issues. In my build I replaced every component. I believe this is the most pure/correct way of doing any audio build. But to replace it all with aftermarket costs a lot of money thanks to the fact we have a MOST25 system, which is a curse and blessing at the same time.
You'll need quite a bit of stuff depending on your goals. I have an 8 speakers setup with two amps a dsp and MOST25 adapter with custom door panels and custom sub enclosure. I spent $13k with install.What else do I need? I have the lc2i and the bass knob for it should I get a 4 channel amp and the lc7i?
Yeah i have a custom enclosure we’re going to build. i’ll probably just throw in what I have and replace what I have an just hope for the best.You'll need quite a bit of stuff depending on your goals. I have an 8 speakers setup with two amps a dsp and MOST25 adapter with custom door panels and custom sub enclosure. I spent $13k with install.
If you're just trying to get more bass, you should follow what others have done in this thread by using your LC2i but don't touch the factory amp or oem enclosure/speakers. Have a custom enclosure built on the side cubby area like @Sam B did or use your trunk space.
If you are set on replacing the oem subs/enslosure add back a couple smaller subs in that enclosure to play the higher frequencies that you don't want the subs to play.Yeah i have a custom enclosure we’re going to build. i’ll probably just throw in what I have and replace what I have an just hope for the best.
Behind driver side trunk panel.where is the factory amp at?
here’s the finished product, sounds amazing tooBehind driver side trunk panel.
we left factory 8s for mid bass an then spliced into the factory amphere’s the finished product, sounds amazing too
Glad it worked out for you.we left factory 8s for mid bass an then spliced into the factory amp