Aftermarket amplifier tie in

[Jason In2details]

I was thinking of Audison Bit one HD cause I want to run Audison Amps. But I do like the MO-Bridge also for the conversion. Plan on not using factory amp at all, no center channel and most likely not the speakers behind the seat. So 2 way set in doors and a sub. Seems basic but then its not considering what really needs to be done to sound good. The stock system really sucks. My Mazda 3 system sounds 10 times better.

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[Supra Bird]

So here is the final install.

1 JL 10WS7AE
1 JL VX600/1i
Full BavSound replacement
Full implementation of Tadda's sound quality recommendations.

 

[DavesMK2JZ]

More pictures or it didn’t happen. Please!!

 

[digicidal]

So here is the final install.

1 JL 10WS7AE
1 JL VX600/1i
Full BavSound replacement
Full implementation of Tadda's sound quality recommendations.

So you didn't wind up replacing the factory amp with anything? I was hoping to hear how a new DSP EQ of the whole system made a massive improvement.

Although it looks great and I'm sure the bottom end is completely transformed... I have far more of a problem with the 200Hz-6000Hz range than I do with missing out on the sub 100Hz area. Would love to see a sweep of your system measured from the head position regardless.

Cheers.

 

[Supra Bird]

My plan was to replace the factory amp when Bavsound go around to creating the drop in. Hopefully in 2021.

That said, my car is now garaged waiting on a new engine from Germany. Started leaking oil at 4200 miles. Was probably leaking for a while but thats when the messages started showing up about low oil. Turns out my cylinder walls are scored badly and I get a new engine. So all that work and now I can't enjoy it....

 

[METAL]

Justin, with your VXi amp having a built in DSP did you directly input the high level signal to that AMP?

Did you utilize any harnesses like TechnicPNP?

 

[Supra Bird]

Justin, with your VXi amp having a built in DSP did you directly input the high level signal to that AMP?

Did you utilize any harnesses like TechnicPNP?

I took the input for each of the 8” rear speakers, spliced them both into an RCA and used that for the left and right input for the amp. My understanding from another thread is there are discreet L & R channels feeding the rear 8s so I wanted to send both signals to the amp to make sure everything was being captured. I cut 2 RCAs to accomplish this and simply fed them into the RCA inputs of the included amp harness.

 

[METAL]

Thats good to hear the amp accepted the high level voltage. I read the VXi amps can accept up to 200 mV - 16 V RMS. Do you happen to know what the voltage is off the sub speaker lines?

Also any reason not to take the full range signal from the fronts? Bad factory EQs?

 

[Jason In2details]

I took the input for each of the 8” rear speakers, spliced them both into an RCA and used that for the left and right input for the amp. My understanding from another thread is there are discreet L & R channels feeding the rear 8s so I wanted to send both signals to the amp to make sure everything was being captured. I cut 2 RCAs to accomplish this and simply fed them into the RCA inputs of the included amp harness.

Cutting wires and turning them into RCA and feeding into an amp? I see that the JL Audio amp can do that up to 16 volts on input thats kinda neat but i would only ever do that on a sub channel. Im really worried that the signal to those subs might not go very low. The factory amp might have been high passing them above 50 hz or higher? Someone asked above why you did not grab door signal and good reason why is they run at least 250hz and up after factory amp

 

[METAL]

Cutting wires and turning them into RCA and feeding into an amp? I see that the JL Audio amp can do that up to 16 volts on input thats kinda neat but i would only ever do that on a sub channel. Im really worried that the signal to those subs might not go very low. The factory amp might have been high passing them above 50 hz or higher? Someone asked above why you did not grab door signal and good reason why is they run at least 250hz and up after factory amp

So how would one acquire the best signal?

 

[Supra Bird]

Thats good to hear the amp accepted the high level voltage. I read the VXi amps can accept up to 200 mV - 16 V RMS. Do you happen to know what the voltage is off the sub speaker lines?

Also any reason not to take the full range signal from the fronts? Bad factory EQs?

I don’t know the voltage off hand from the factory 8s. I would measure it for you but I haven’t had my car for two months since I’m still waiting on a new engine from Germany.


Main reason I used that signal is it comes into those speakers right below where my amp is located so it was mostly a matter of availability and ease. My other option was to intercept the signal at the factory amp to convert the mostbus signal to toslink. That’s probably the ideal scenario but will cost another $500+ to get one that works with the Supra. Since the JL amp could accept a high signal it seemed the easiest way to make it work. Been very pleased with it overall. Lows are good with this setup.

 

[Supra Bird]

So how would one acquire the best signal?

Best way imho is to spend the money and get a mostbus to toslink and just intercept the factory head unit signal pre amp. But when I was doing this all I could find for that was in the $500-$600 range and a lot of questions on whether it would work right. That’s what drove me to that particular JL amp. Ability to accept a high signal.

 

[Cruzinbill]

Best way imho is to spend the money and get a mostbus to toslink and just intercept the factory head unit signal pre amp. But when I was doing this all I could find for that was in the $500-$600 range and a lot of questions on whether it would work right. That’s what drove me to that particular JL amp. Ability to accept a high signal.

It is the best route to take IMO, and it does work correctly. Granted I find that in general more than a subwoofer upgrade is needed in this car as the factory audio tuning is some of the worst I have heard especially for being considered a "premium" system.

 

[Supra Bird]

It is the best route to take IMO, and it does work correctly. Granted I find that in general more than a subwoofer upgrade is needed in this car as the factory audio tuning is some of the worst I have heard especially for being considered a "premium" system.

Agreed. I was hoping that Bavsound would release their new revenant amp that would work with the Supra but I guess we will be waiting a bit longer for that. If it comes at all I suppose. I’ve got mine sounding pretty good with just the speaker replacements/sub and tadda’s EQ settings. But I definitely wish I had a new amp to drive the regular speakers.

 

[METAL]

Best way imho is to spend the money and get a mostbus to toslink and just intercept the factory head unit signal pre amp. But when I was doing this all I could find for that was in the $500-$600 range and a lot of questions on whether it would work right. That’s what drove me to that particular JL amp. Ability to accept a high signal.

I worry the voltage may be higher than what that amp should be accepting as high input levels.

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