Battery replacement programming

[Loco38SUP]

Replacing mine today. What about the little hose thing that goes into the stock battery on the right side? I'm not seeing a hole to put it in on the AG.

I swear to Christ the next time I do this it's going to be with a car built in the 90's...

I just zip tied mine out of the way. Its not needed for a sealed battery. Welcome to the future of constant evolving technology. ?

-RJM

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[underdonk]

I just zip tied mine out of the way. Its not needed for a sealed battery. Welcome to the future of constant evolving technology. ?

-RJM

Man, thank you so much. I took the dang thing out again and thought my old eyes were just missing something! ?

 

[underdonk]

That's a vent tube for AGM batteries in case of malfunction. The chemistry of lithium ion batteries does not require that. You can safely tuck it away.

Makes sense. Much appreciated!

 

[underdonk]

Its pretty strait forward, first code then register.

-RJM

Where do I go in BimmerCode to register the new battery? I've coded the correct type but I'll be damned if I can find some means by which to register it. I'm probably missing something obvious here...

Edit: I was user BimmerCode and not BimmerLink because I am an idiot. Don't be me. Learn to read. ? Got it registered.

 

[Liam.Lymsworth]

Hey guys, i’m brand new mk5 owner, i got the same problem here. Lol. The antigravity battery also needs to be registered thru bimmerlink too right?

and, do i still need the OBDLink to register a battery or to use bimmercode?

This is suck. My battery died while my car was on ramp & underneath the garage door. Lmao.

 

[decodeddiesel]

Can anyone actually walk me through the steps in Bimmer code to set the battery specifications? For the life of me I can't figure out how to get to the "front electronics" to change the value.

 

[Schady1990]

Just to try help, I used this thread to code my Lithumax battery recently.

I fitted the battery and just left it without coding as others have said, but I found whenever I dropped to very low rpm usually in 5th or 6th gear my instrument cluster would drop out and the car would lose power for like 1-2 seconds and figured it was related to going from the stock AGM to aftermarket Lithium battery, which seemingly was the case (My car is m/t also so that might also have an impact).

Anyway, you can change battery type & capacity via Bimmer code, ref images attached. All battery coding options can be found under "engine control unit"
I ended up using chat GPT to convert Li Ah to AGM Ah, but this didnt work in the end, from memory the stock battery was 100 Ah, i coded the Li battery to 80 Ah but still found the cluster dropping out, I've since dropped the Ah rating even lower again and it appears to have resolved the issue.

So yeah, change your Ah and battery type to reflect what you've fitted then code that to the vehicle. Then use Bimmer link to register the battery, it should automatically detect your new battery type and Ah specs and then just press register new battery.

Cycle cluster, clear faults, all should be okay.

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