Xproplayer
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Just did the install on a blackvue 2 channel with power magic pro, total time 5 hours (probably over an hour on just fuse research + running to get add a fuses), here is my thoughts, notes, rants, and tips:
Before you start, plan your electrical setup. I wanted to do fuse taps, then I decided to do add a fuse kits and use an unused slot from the fuse box, turns out unused slots don't have power...
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/fuse-panel-layouts.5741/page-6#post-192156 this thread has an amazing breakout of fuses, I couldn't decipher which fuse is which to find a logical system, so I just used fuse F244 and F254 (If I have an issue I'll edit this post) with a 3a fuse on the accessory side and the original 5a on the original side. There is another "fusebox" on the BDC in the passenger footwell, so you could save yourself the hassle of the trunk mess if you tap in there, I chose not to do this.
I did my whole install front to rear, and didn't regret it, I plugged both cables into the camera then ran through the headliner, I'm not a fan of the headliner install as you can hear glue pulling, but it's the best option really, didn't need to remove the A pillar piece, but I did go under it so I did light prying and pushed under.
Step 2e removing the rectangular plastic panel that is at the "back" of the trunk (plate side), it is indeed pull STRAIGHT up, but realize you are pushing against the rubber seal (you can lift the seal over if you want) and the floor of the trunk will also hold it in.
There is a ground nut available right next to the fuse box which I can confirm works, it's just to the right of the fuse box and is a silver metallic color and seems to have a nylon nut with a built in washer
Step 26 that T35 is indeed incredibly tight, you will not be able to get it out with a screwdriver, I had to put a wrench on my screwdriver to break it loose and tighten it down. Its indeed covered in loctite so it will be hard to remove the entire way out
If you don't remove both of the T35s the headliner won't sag, I did NOT want to deal with removing the entire left side of the car and for my basic blackvue I've never had signal interference issues so idc running power and data beside each other. I'd still remove the single T35 on the right side to get just a bit more wiggle room, which you will need when running through the rubber hose for the hatch.
The rubber hose in step 28 is pretty workable actually, lots of room inside of it, both sides disconnect and the center piece disconnects. I used a dry teflon spray lube to lube the cable, then electrical taped the cable to a coat hanger (metal) I shoved through. It proved nice to have something flexible like the metal hangar because I needed a slight curve to achieve the routing to that circle pop cover piece, I had my wire come out from here, I didn't remove the panel and do the routing see in step 33
Before you start, plan your electrical setup. I wanted to do fuse taps, then I decided to do add a fuse kits and use an unused slot from the fuse box, turns out unused slots don't have power...
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/fuse-panel-layouts.5741/page-6#post-192156 this thread has an amazing breakout of fuses, I couldn't decipher which fuse is which to find a logical system, so I just used fuse F244 and F254 (If I have an issue I'll edit this post) with a 3a fuse on the accessory side and the original 5a on the original side. There is another "fusebox" on the BDC in the passenger footwell, so you could save yourself the hassle of the trunk mess if you tap in there, I chose not to do this.
I did my whole install front to rear, and didn't regret it, I plugged both cables into the camera then ran through the headliner, I'm not a fan of the headliner install as you can hear glue pulling, but it's the best option really, didn't need to remove the A pillar piece, but I did go under it so I did light prying and pushed under.
Step 2e removing the rectangular plastic panel that is at the "back" of the trunk (plate side), it is indeed pull STRAIGHT up, but realize you are pushing against the rubber seal (you can lift the seal over if you want) and the floor of the trunk will also hold it in.
There is a ground nut available right next to the fuse box which I can confirm works, it's just to the right of the fuse box and is a silver metallic color and seems to have a nylon nut with a built in washer
Step 26 that T35 is indeed incredibly tight, you will not be able to get it out with a screwdriver, I had to put a wrench on my screwdriver to break it loose and tighten it down. Its indeed covered in loctite so it will be hard to remove the entire way out
If you don't remove both of the T35s the headliner won't sag, I did NOT want to deal with removing the entire left side of the car and for my basic blackvue I've never had signal interference issues so idc running power and data beside each other. I'd still remove the single T35 on the right side to get just a bit more wiggle room, which you will need when running through the rubber hose for the hatch.
The rubber hose in step 28 is pretty workable actually, lots of room inside of it, both sides disconnect and the center piece disconnects. I used a dry teflon spray lube to lube the cable, then electrical taped the cable to a coat hanger (metal) I shoved through. It proved nice to have something flexible like the metal hangar because I needed a slight curve to achieve the routing to that circle pop cover piece, I had my wire come out from here, I didn't remove the panel and do the routing see in step 33
iceman600
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Well you have a different dashcam. Blackvue has 3 wires for hardwiring. an ACC, Ground, and a constant power source.
MyCorolla
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@Retrocade is right. I have a 2-ch Thinkware U1000 with an external battery, which is wired as per instructions in the PDF in this thread. I only had to remove the B-panel on the passenger side. I was able to route all the wires without removing any other panels. Installation took me under two hours from start to finish.
SexrayVision
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What's the name of this mirror?
itdiestoday
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Any observed issues using the selected F244/254 positions? I will more than likely use the same ones.
Xproplayer
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No issues.
itdiestoday
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Thanks boss! Just used these this morning.
Xproplayer
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Don't pull any fuses while the car is locked, it'll get very mad.
Yabai
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I first hand experienced this with him lol
xplizitremix
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I had trouble tucking the wire into the the edge of the a pillar that meets the headliner.. any tips? I didn't want to pull on it incase of the airbag lol
Riko
Member
yeah, because thats not the way to do it safely
the way is to remove the a pillar completely, route the cable behind the airbag, towards the headliner and than you can close up the a pillar again, than you have a nice seemless interior with no wires to be seen and a fully safely functional airbag
the way is to remove the a pillar completely, route the cable behind the airbag, towards the headliner and than you can close up the a pillar again, than you have a nice seemless interior with no wires to be seen and a fully safely functional airbag
xplizitremix
Well-Known Member
is it just clips? simple pry tool can remove? i just dont want to set off the airbag or should i disconnect battery first?
NicKnack
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I know it's been a minute but I just did my dashcam install today following this guide and wanted to share my experience/some notes.
Firstly, the guide was pretty straight forward and simple to follow. My total install time was 4 hours, mostly because it was my first time and I spent a lot of time making sure the wires were routed properly, and that once everything was routed, it was all cabled tied and tucked away cleanly.
Secondly, I for the life of me was not able to get my Blackvue B130x battery to fit in the empty space in the battery tray, it was just a touch too long and wouldn't fit. So instead what I did is I relocated the tire inflator to sit in the empty space of the battery tray instead, and used the stick on Velcro meant for the battery to secure it in there, and then I put the BlackVue battery in the moulded foam holder next to the fuse box, I was able to get the sealant can in there too in it's original location, and then I just cut some left over upholstery foam I had from doing the OEM Subwoofer fix, and put it beside/around the battery and sealant to secure it all in place.
What this meant is that my power cable in to the fuse tap is actually quite short since the fusebox is right there, and I did it in a way that if I ever need to access the fuse box, I can just turn off the battery, pull the plugs out and then pull the battery out through the fuse box door.
For the ground, I ended up cutting the ground wire and adding my own spade connector to the end and then I used the nut on the top of the battery tie down bracket, and then followed the OEM harness along the trunk floor back to the fuse box area.
The two screws from Step 5 were T20 for me, and not T27. Also as others have said, the two Two T30's for the headliner brackets have threadlocker on them so it's much easier to remove with a ratchet than a screw driver, even then you may need a breaker bar to crack them loose.
Lastly, I found the two plastic panels beside the quarter window were an absolute PITA to remove, mostly due do the one plastic clip that holds them in closest to the window. I fought with each of them for about 5-10 minutes before managing to get that clip out.
Firstly, the guide was pretty straight forward and simple to follow. My total install time was 4 hours, mostly because it was my first time and I spent a lot of time making sure the wires were routed properly, and that once everything was routed, it was all cabled tied and tucked away cleanly.
Secondly, I for the life of me was not able to get my Blackvue B130x battery to fit in the empty space in the battery tray, it was just a touch too long and wouldn't fit. So instead what I did is I relocated the tire inflator to sit in the empty space of the battery tray instead, and used the stick on Velcro meant for the battery to secure it in there, and then I put the BlackVue battery in the moulded foam holder next to the fuse box, I was able to get the sealant can in there too in it's original location, and then I just cut some left over upholstery foam I had from doing the OEM Subwoofer fix, and put it beside/around the battery and sealant to secure it all in place.
What this meant is that my power cable in to the fuse tap is actually quite short since the fusebox is right there, and I did it in a way that if I ever need to access the fuse box, I can just turn off the battery, pull the plugs out and then pull the battery out through the fuse box door.
For the ground, I ended up cutting the ground wire and adding my own spade connector to the end and then I used the nut on the top of the battery tie down bracket, and then followed the OEM harness along the trunk floor back to the fuse box area.
The two screws from Step 5 were T20 for me, and not T27. Also as others have said, the two Two T30's for the headliner brackets have threadlocker on them so it's much easier to remove with a ratchet than a screw driver, even then you may need a breaker bar to crack them loose.
Lastly, I found the two plastic panels beside the quarter window were an absolute PITA to remove, mostly due do the one plastic clip that holds them in closest to the window. I fought with each of them for about 5-10 minutes before managing to get that clip out.
