concept
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Dave
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2023
- Threads
- 13
- Messages
- 688
- Reaction score
- 488
- Location
- Southern CA
- Car(s)
- 2024 Supra 45th 2008 Mazda MX5 PRHT manual
Very true about manual pump-bleeding. Popular Mechanics had a writeup about this after a shop used this method which rendered my wife's 10 year-old vehicle with an MC that could not produce a firm brake pedal. The shop had to replace the MC.A few general comments on brakes and fluid. Some cars such as Ford Focus RS mk3 have a brake system thats not totally sealed. The cap sealing bladder has an integral "valve" so total sealing isn't guaranteed. You can get water ingress beyond the usual leaching through the cap bladder and other rubber components.
Not all fresh brake fluid in a sealed bottle off the shelf at the auto store is zero moisture content as it should be. I have bought batches that straight out of the sealed bottles have been 1.5% water contaminated. Anything greater than 2% you should change out. These days I buy the fluid and open it at the counter and test it before I leave and exchange any that don't pass.
Pressure bleeding is far superior to the old pump the pedal style bleeding and much safer especially in older vehicles that may not have had adequate fluid changes over the years. In these cases contaminated fluid can accumulate at the end of the master cylinder stroke and cause corrosion at that point where the M/C piston never travels to in normal braking events. You then go and use the old style pump the pedal bleeding methodology and bingo you're pushing the M/C piston to a place in the cylinder bore that it never normally sees and the corrosion damage at that location destroys the M/C seals during the bleeding process. The amount of corrosion necessary to do this is miniscule. M/C seals won't tolerate even a grain of sand sized particles.
Phil
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