Brake pad recommendations?

[spaghettihoes]

I had this issue with the PMU CRs and it was from using the OE rotors that had stock pad material on them. The forum said to bed them again and again and that didn't help. Only when I got new rotors entirely did it get better.

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[Max3.0]

I had this issue with the PMU CRs and it was from using the OE rotors that had stock pad material on them. The forum said to bed them again and again and that didn't help. Only when I got new rotors entirely did it get better.

You went with 2 piece oem? Or went with the full cast version?

 

[spaghettihoes]

I got Pagid one piece rotors from rock auto but they weigh the same as the oem 2 piece rotors. I went through my first set pretty quickly so I'm looking for value rather than potential weight savings although there isn't any penalty either.

 

[johnsmither]

I got Pagid one piece rotors from rock auto but they weigh the same as the oem 2 piece rotors. I went through my first set pretty quickly so I'm looking for value rather than potential weight savings although there isn't any penalty either.

When I did my rotors on my Evo X, I went with one pieces instead of the OEM 2 piece, one pieces were just way cheaper

 

[johnsmither]

Just bumping this a bit, but anyone who ran 999's on their oem rotors got them to bed succcessfully?

 

[TheCat78]

Just bumping this a bit, but anyone who ran 999's on their oem rotors got them to bed succcessfully?

I couldn't get mine to bed properly on oem rotors.
Ended up swapping to new rotors.

 

[Evolution]

Just bumping this a bit, but anyone who ran 999's on their oem rotors got them to bed succcessfully?

3 sets in and all good here. 2 on stock rotors, 1 on 2 piece.

 

[Vegas17]

Sanding stock rotors with 80 grit orbital before has made bedding pads much more consistent for me. CR's, 99's and Hawks etc have gone from shudder machines to smooth as butter. Even new rotors i'll hit with the orbital for a pass or two and spray with brake cleaner until the towel is clean.

 

[johnsmither]

3 sets in and all good here. 2 on stock rotors, 1 on 2 piece.

Just regular bedding work fine for you? Nothing special I assume.

Sanding stock rotors with 80 grit orbital before has made bedding pads much more consistent for me. CR's, 99's and Hawks etc have gone from shudder machines to smooth as butter. Even new rotors i'll hit with the orbital for a pass or two and spray with brake cleaner until the towel is clean.

Sweet I'm gonna try that, I've heard multiple people say it's tough to bed in before so I'll go over it just incase.

 

[Evolution]

Just regular bedding work fine for you? Nothing special I assume.

Sweet I'm gonna try that, I've heard multiple people say it's tough to bed in before so I'll go over it just incase.

I just bed them until I literally have no brakes. If your wheels arent solid black by the time you are done bedding, you didnt bed enough.

And as @Vegas17 said, its always a good idea to clean the rotors off first. I typically use a wire wheel on a drill.

 

[Subydude]

I just bedded a set at Pocono.

prior I bedded them after running pagid pads. All of this on the same set of oem rotors. I found it took two sessions at VIR for the shudder to stop, but once it did it was fine. The second set of 999’s bedded in fine since it was the same compound.

basically, just brake harder for longer and it’ll work.

 

[Subydude]

Small update after doing a track tour of New England. I went in with PMU 999's that had done VIR, CMS, NCCAR, North Wilkesboro, and CMP (2 days) but still had somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of their material left. Just to be safe I ordered a spare set of 999's and was glad I did. The old pads survived through Palmer, Lime Rock Park, and Canaan, but the first of 2 days at Pocono did them in. The multiple high 140 to low 150 mph braking down to 70ish per lap roasted the left front and both sides had chunking starting. I swapped the new pads in for the second day at Pocono and got them bedded in on track there. Other than the usual "oh look, it's ashen gray instead of green" they appeared fine but had worn a few mm by the end. The rears were still a dark green as well.

Then I went to Watkins Glen for a 1 day open track event and burned through 30 gallons of fuel, and almost half the brake pads. Prior I had been doing 3-4 hot laps (4-10 minutes) at most tracks before either hitting traffic or doing cool downs due to heat. At WGI I was able to do 8-9 laps at a time with no traffic before hitting fuel starve, but around lap 6 or 7 I would feel some odd braking through the pedal and started to back off some since it didn't feel right. Felt like brake shudder, but more squishy, like a tire going down. I started adding a cool down lap in the middle which mostly resolved it. That said, I noticed the rear pads were now black and looked a lot more like they'd hit higher temps. The fronts were still ashen gray, but had worn much quicker.

All of this to say, I really like the PMU 999's, and I think they pair very well with the 71RZ's. I also think they over heat after about 12-14 minutes of pushing on track in a 3,600 lbs car at stage 1 power. Luckily the tires are off pace by lap 3ish (assuming a 2ish minute lap), and the cool down lap brings them back. At a track that's super light on brakes like Lime Rock, this isn't an issue.

So after ordering a spare front set last month, I just ordered another front set to be the new spare. It seems the 999's will last a smidge longer than a set of 71RZ's if you're pushing. If you're doing straight 3 laps and then a cool down I think they'll go longer, but I'm likely exceeding the 1,500 degree mark which obviously accelerates wear.

Cliff Notes: 999's are good for most track sessions/most tracks. Be aware that high brake tracks you can get weird braking toward the end of the session. The trade off is almost perfect DD behavior, almost instant turn on when on track, and super cheap.

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