DIY Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Removal

[94boosted]

Just use BMW part 21526785964 - it's identical except that it doesn't have the delay valve.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-slave-cylinder-21526785964

Yes I know, instead of swapping out the slave I was just going to do the mod in the OP's first post. But, I'd like to know what the part number is for the OEM slave, if anything ever happened to the driveline I'd certainly be swapping an OEM slave in prior to any warranty work.

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[Spart]

Yes I know, instead of swapping out the slave I was just going to do the mod in the OP's first post. But, I'd like to know what the part number is for the OEM slave, if anything ever happened to the driveline I'd certainly be swapping an OEM slave in prior to any warranty work.

That would be a waste of time and I expect the Toyota one may be harder to find and/or more expensive.

That referenced part number is literally identical to the OEM one in every visible way but for the presence of the delay valve just inside the hydraulic connection.

I purchased mine from FCP Euro and installed it myself. I kept my OEM slave cylinder for the same reason: to reinstall should I ever need to take the car in for warranty work on the transmission.

 

[ApexTheory]

I don't think you even need the spare part. You can just keep the spacer and CDV and re-install it easier than changing out the whole slave cylinder.

 

[Stvee]

Yeah there is no reason you can't reinstall the CDV if needed.

 

[94boosted]

I don't think you even need the spare part. You can just keep the spacer and CDV and re-install it easier than changing out the whole slave cylinder.

Yeah there is no reason you can't reinstall the CDV if needed.

Good to know, I was worried that with having to use a metal screw to remove the spacer and CDV it would cause some damage to one, or both, preventing them from being reused.

 

[ApexTheory]

Good to know, I was worried that with having to use a metal screw to remove the spacer and CDV it would cause some damage to one, or both, preventing them from being reused.

The screw is just useful to get a little bit of friction on the inside barrel of the spacer/valve. As long as you're not reaming it in there you won't do any damage.

 

[94boosted]

The screw is just useful to get a little bit of friction on the inside barrel of the spacer/valve. As long as you're not reaming it in there you won't do any damage.

Ahh, good to know, thanks ApexTheory!

 

[meeko]

Thank you for your write up!! After buying power bleeder, I got this done in about an hour like you mentioned. It took a 2 or 3 times to get the CDV out but it was easy! Great write up!

 

[Spart]

That power bleeder will be clutch (in the second definition of the word) whenever you decide to change out the OE brake fluid for a more track-capable one.

If you have any thoughts of tracking, Castrol SRF, Motul RBF, or Endless brake fluids are all really decent.

 

[Turbro]

Thank you for your write up!! After buying power bleeder, I got this done in about an hour like you mentioned. It took a 2 or 3 times to get the CDV out but it was easy! Great write up!

Did you get the European power bleeder? I see a lot of models of power bleeders, so i am curious

 

[Chong]

Did you get the European power bleeder? I see a lot of models of power bleeders, so i am curious

I'm not who you directed your question towards, but Motive 0109 is the one that's compatible with our cars.

 

[Spart]

I'm not who you directed your question towards, but Motive 0109 is the one that's compatible with our cars.

Motive 0109 is the one I used.

 

[Turbro]

Perfect info. Thanks guys

 

[toxicity]

just wanted to make sure..
were we supposed to put the rubber spacer back in...?

 

[FlammasWRLD]

All I can say is I wish I did this sooner. Completely fixed the weird clunky feel the gearbox had when trying to shift fast. I was experiencing small amounts of grind when doing WOT pulls during the 1-2 shift, and I haven't experienced it at all now after the CDV delete. I've had to re-learn how to drive the car smoothly.

When raising the car, be cautious about how high you lift it. This is important because there's a dividing wall in the master reservoir that separates the fluid for the brakes and the clutch. The clutch section only holds about 1-2 ounces of fluid. If the front of the car is lifted too high, it prevents the fluid from flowing back into the clutch section unless the reservoir is near overfilled.
Might've found this out the hard way...

Thanks @Slybri for helping and letting me use your tools!

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