DIY Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Removal

[Spart]

When I did mine I clamped the line, but not well enough, so it dripped for 10 or so seconds until I could get it sorted. Topped off the reservoir and proceeded to bleed seemingly without issue. Put everything back to together and stepped on the clutch pedal and it went straight to the floor and had to be pulled back up. Seems we let the fluid level get below the "Min" line which is just above the hose that feeds the clutch slave cylinder. If the fluid drops below that and you press the pedal it will suck air, stick to the floor and will have to be re-bled. It took several cycles of pressing the pedal and picking it up by hand to eventually regain pressure.

Make sure the reservoir stays topped up!

Air replaces that fluid that drains, and it ends up in the master.

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[RyanA90]

We clamped it right at the end with vice grips before disconnecting and only lost a few drips at most. The first car we did we used the bleeder and it didn’t even do anything, and when we did mine after we didn’t use the bleeder and everything was fine

Ok, sounds like a good strategy to clamp it right at the end before disconnecting. I'll try it when the weather isn't 100+ degrees here lol

 

[AHP]

Air replaces that fluid that drains, and it ends up in the master.

Yeah, but initially I had zero issues with pedal pressure throughout the first bleed -- everything was normal. I guess coincidentally it was the last stroke where it must have sucked air from the reservoir. After the bleed I topped of the reservoir not noticing it must have gotten below the line, put all of the shields back on, etc.. Got in the car to start it and back off the lift and that's when the pedal went to the floor, so had to re-do the whole process over.

All good since, though -- including 5 track days!

 

[lucky phil]

Yeah, but initially I had zero issues with pedal pressure throughout the first bleed -- everything was normal. I guess coincidentally it was the last stroke where it must have sucked air from the reservoir. After the bleed I topped of the reservoir not noticing it must have gotten below the line, put all of the shields back on, etc.. Got in the car to start it and back off the lift and that's when the pedal went to the floor, so had to re-do the whole process over.

All good since, though -- including 5 track days!

Ok here’s a question I can’t answer definitively but would love to know. Bleed motorcycle brakes using a pressure bleeder vac bleed or manually and get a decent lever but a bit spongy. Useable just but not “solid” no matter how much you bleed it. Now apply the brakes hard and use a the wrap on the brake lever to keep the brakes applied and leave it overnight. Release the tye wrap next day and you have a perfect hard lever and it stays that way permanently. How often does this happen/work? Ever single time bleeding brakes. It’s my standard bleeding process and has been for years now. Always the same result, a much better lever. I don’t know exactly why it’s the case, I have a theory why but if you are ever having a similar issue on the car clutch or brakes it might be worth trying the same process. Leave them applied overnight and see what it’s like 12 hours later.
phil

 

[Spart]

So as long as you clamp the line, you don't need to bleed the line?!

I would always bleed.

I haven't carefully examined the routing of the line for the clutch, but depending on what humps and whoops the air needs to get through to find the highest place, you may have a bit of air stuck in the line or the slave that could cause an issue out of the blue down the road.

The clutch can still operate and feel okay with a little bit of air in the system... until it doesn't.

Bleeding (and observing the bubbles in the fluid using a clear piece of hose, rather than draining straight out of the bleed valve) is what you do to make sure everything is okay.

If you track your car this is doubly important. You might smoke a clutch from poor clutch bleeding, but you might wreck a car from poor brake bleeding.

I am a big fan of the Motive power bleeders as they let you run basically as much fluid as you want through the system without needing someone to constantly pump and hold (though you should intermittently do that as well to free up any pockets of trapped air.)

 

[1_slo_Z4]

Did you not clamp the line? How much fluid came out when you did it and did you properly bleed it?
We clammed the line and maybe 3 drops a fluid came out and didn’t need to bleed it on the 3 cars we did

So unfortunately I have a tool set specifically for clamping hoses but I noticed it didn't have a really strong bite so by the time I could really see the clamp was crap it was to late it was leaking everywhere but I finally bleed the old way and it worked not a single air bubble.

 

[1_slo_Z4]

Get a power bleeder and like four quarts of fluid. Motive MVP-0109 power bleeder and BMW 81220142156 low viscosity DOT-4.

Make absolutely sure that you do not let the reservoir run dry while you are bleeding at the slave cylinder.

Bleed, work the pedal, bleed, work the pedal. Until no more bubbles come out. Use a bottle with a clear tube to observe the bubbles, this one works great and has a magnet: https://www.amazon.com/Longacre-52-45198-Bleeder-Bottle-Magnet/dp/B08DL79FJ8/

The dealer might make things worse, to be honest with you.

I bled it the old way. Worked great even went back and checked again and no air bubbles.

 

[kungfujedis]

I'm thinking about doing this, but wanted to get the bleed right. I've bleed brakes plenty times, and I have a motive bleeder. The main thing I wanted to confirm is that the reservoir is shared with the brakes. So just hook my motive up as if I was bleeding the brakes and turn the bleed screw on the clutch slave?

 

[spaghettihoes]

I'm thinking about doing this, but wanted to get the bleed right. I've bleed brakes plenty times, and I have a motive bleeder. The main thing I wanted to confirm is that the reservoir is shared with the brakes. So just hook my motive up as if I was bleeding the brakes and turn the bleed screw on the clutch slave?

Yup exactly that, you don't need much fluid but obviously make sure you don't run dry.

 

[AHP]

I'm thinking about doing this, but wanted to get the bleed right. I've bleed brakes plenty times, and I have a motive bleeder. The main thing I wanted to confirm is that the reservoir is shared with the brakes. So just hook my motive up as if I was bleeding the brakes and turn the bleed screw on the clutch slave?

Yes, but be mindful of keeping the reservoir topped off. The clutch feed line is pretty high up on the reservoir and if the fluid level drops to or below it you will push air into the line.

 

[Spart]

Yup exactly that, you don't need much fluid but obviously make sure you don't run dry.

You don't need much fluid, unless you let a bunch drain out of the line going back to the master. Then it will take quite a bit to get all of the bubbles out.

Yes, but be mindful of keeping the reservoir topped off. The clutch feed line is pretty high up on the reservoir and if the fluid level drops to or below it you will push air into the line.

The Motive bleeder he's using does this for you as long as you don't let the bleeder itself run dry, great bit of kit! I love mine. Makes for a stress-free day in the garage.

 

[BrodoFratgins]

I'm struggling to bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder and now trying to do it the manual way solo.

However, it got me thinking... I didn't have the clutch depressed when using a pressure bleeder. Was that what I'm missing?

I should add it's not the Motive Bleeder like most people are using. It's a Harbor Freight bleeder that uses compressed air and connects to the slave cylinder bleeder.

 

[kungfujedis]

I did this this afternoon, it was pretty easy. Shifts do feel better in my short test drive, though not quite night and day.

 

[kungfujedis]

I'm struggling to bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder and now trying to do it the manual way solo.

However, it got me thinking... I didn't have the clutch depressed when using a pressure bleeder. Was that what I'm missing?

I should add it's not the Motive Bleeder like most people are using. It's a Harbor Freight bleeder that uses compressed air and connects to the slave cylinder bleeder.

I can't speak to the harbor freight bleeder, but I did it this afternoon with a motive. I did not touch the clutch at all. I did have to turn the bleeder a lot more than I expected before fluid started coming out.

 

[BrodoFratgins]

Now it appears I've sprung a leak on where the hard line connects to the slave.

My ability to fuck things up is astonishing.

I've tried reseating 4 or 5 times. Sometimes it won't leak at first, but it'll start back up if I bump it while adjusting the bleeder screw

I'm an idiot, the rubber grommet wasn't fully on the hard pipe

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