Greetings from Belgium - Car history and Supra MKV build

Q8_TwinTurbo

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Geert,
congrats on the wheels and summer tires. You should have better traction now from the summer tires.

can you kindly clarify on the wheel & tire setup you put on the car. Wheel brand, size & width. Tire choice, sizes & width. Thanks.

I can see that you went with a 3-piece wheel design. Any reason for not going with forged monoblock (one-piece) wheels ?




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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Geert,
congrats on the wheels and summer tires. You should have better traction now from the summer tires.

can you kindly clarify on the wheel & tire setup you put on the car. Wheel brand, size & width. Tire choice, sizes & width. Thanks.

I can see that you went with a 3-piece wheel design. Any reason for not going with forged monoblock (one-piece) wheels ?
Sure, glad to help somebody else :)

1)
Wheels: BCforged MLE81 - Fronts are 19x9.5" ET22 ; Rears are 19x11" ET35
Tires: Michelin Pilot sport 4S - Fronts 265/35/19 ; Rears 285/35/19


2)
The reason why I am not using bigger tires is because wider tires would go totally out of margin spec in diameter compared to the standard ones (you have to take into account the big power, all of the electronics/sensors,...)

275/30/19 in fronts would be -2.08% compared to standard, not ok
285/30/19 in fronts would be ok (-1.15%), but too wide for a 9.5" wheel
305/30/19 in the rears would be ok, but not in combination with a 275/35 in fronts

The best would be 305/30/19 in fronts in combination with 325/30/19 in the rear. But wheels for those sizes, would not fit a standard Supra (note: in Belgium, you are not allowed to exceed your wheels/tires outside the arches)

The reason that I am not using semislicks or slicks, is just because you can't get enough heat in tires in daily traffic.
Also even in summer, it can rain a lot in Belgium. So also from a safety point of view... not going to do that on a rear-wheel high-torque car :)

So I went for a good and proven performance tire.
Benefit of not running the widest tires, is that I am not rubbing the inside arches, even if I take the car for a trackday or sportier drive.

Note: the reason I did not went for wider wheels, is because BCforged did not recommend doing that on a standard supra. So I followed the manufacturer's advise.


3)
I am not abusing the wheels for weekly trackdays. 99% of the time it is a daily drive. Just loved the look of the wheels.
Not a particular reason why I did not went with forged monoblock. I don't require to run monoblocks :)
 

StirFry

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Do you think a full exhaust would give you some bigger hp increase as opposed to just doing the downpipe?
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Do you think a full exhaust would give you some bigger hp increase as opposed to just doing the downpipe?
I don't think an exhaust would increase the HP with a big jump. Still running on all EU cats besides the one in the downpipe.
Using it as a daily drive, last thing I want is a noisy exhaust. Maybe one day I will fit one, who knows :)

I love the fact that which just a downpipe and turbo... those HP gains can be achieved.
And she still has a lot more in her... let's hope after the summer, we can tune the transmission also.
 

Q8_TwinTurbo

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Sure, glad to help somebody else :)

1)
Wheels: BCforged MLE81 - Fronts are 19x9.5" ET22 ; Rears are 19x11" ET35
Tires: Michelin Pilot sport 4S - Fronts 265/35/19 ; Rears 285/35/19


2)
The reason why I am not using bigger tires is because wider tires would go totally out of margin spec in diameter compared to the standard ones (you have to take into account the big power, all of the electronics/sensors,...)

275/30/19 in fronts would be -2.08% compared to standard, not ok
285/30/19 in fronts would be ok (-1.15%), but too wide for a 9.5" wheel
305/30/19 in the rears would be ok, but not in combination with a 275/35 in fronts

The best would be 305/30/19 in fronts in combination with 325/30/19 in the rear. But wheels for those sizes, would not fit a standard Supra (note: in Belgium, you are not allowed to exceed your wheels/tires outside the arches)

The reason that I am not using semislicks or slicks, is just because you can't get enough heat in tires in daily traffic.
Also even in summer, it can rain a lot in Belgium. So also from a safety point of view... not going to do that on a rear-wheel high-torque car :)

So I went for a good and proven performance tire.
Benefit of not running the widest tires, is that I am not rubbing the inside arches, even if I take the car for a trackday or sportier drive.

Note: the reason I did not went for wider wheels, is because BCforged did not recommend doing that on a standard supra. So I followed the manufacturer's advise.


3)
I am not abusing the wheels for weekly trackdays. 99% of the time it is a daily drive. Just loved the look of the wheels.
Not a particular reason why I did not went with forged monoblock. I don't require to run monoblocks :)
Geert,

Thanks for the information.

I personally ordered a set of Titan7 TS-5 Wheels in the following size 18x10.7 ET18.
They are square setup primarily for track days. The tires installed on them are Yokohama Advan A052 275/40R18.
Hopefully, i will not have any electronic interference from going with that size.
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Geert,

Thanks for the information.

I personally ordered a set of Titan7 TS-5 Wheels in the following size 18x10.7 ET18.
They are square setup primarily for track days. The tires installed on them are Yokohama Advan A052 275/40R18.
Hopefully, i will not have any electronic interference from going with that size.
Hopefully not indeed, because:
  • In the rear you are ok: +0.4% compared to standard
  • But in the front, you are way off: +2.7% compared to standard
So the car will receive information that your rear tires are spinning faster than the front ones.
The result could be that the car thinks the rear is losing grip in the rear and that traction control kicks in.
I am no expert on when the Supra does which action, compared to the sensor inputs (and the default numbers it knows). So it is always a guess

But on the track, you will already:
  • Disable/lower the Supra safety features (for example vehicle/pedestrian/object detection)
  • Put traction control off or on set it in lowest interference (sport mode and push the TC-button)

Yes we are no longer in the 90's, where we can just swap bigger tires to have grip... as we were not running electronics :)
Than again, the car is 50 times safer and does not want to kill us :p
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Sad news today... my engine blew up this morning :(
I was cruising on the highway and took the exit. While I was taking the exit corner, suddenly the car started vibrating.


First I thought there was something wrong with one of the wheels (I was taking the corner at a high speed). But in the straight still vibrating.
So second guess, its the engine, no longer running on 6 cylinders. So I stopped over and checked... yes engine vibrating not ok.

There was only a 'check engine light' for 5 seconds and it went off. No DTC codes were gicing by the car (I read it out with ecutek). REally the car just said... I am fine. Like WTF :eek:

Called custom import arts and they confirmed by just hearing the sound of the engine, that it is not running on all 6.
So I phoned Toyota assistance to tow the car, but they only wanted to tow it to a Toyota dealer, nowhere else.
Luckely Custom Import Arts was able to tow me and they done a first diagnostics.

It is the front cylinder that is having no compression any longer. The spark plug was fine, turbo is fine... one cylinder without compression.
Currently it is a guess what caused it. I did fuel up yesterday, so they will also send some fuel for testing (check if it is not bad fuel).


After calling around with some fellow tuners, it seems I am not the first one with the same problem. Other owners (even with standard non-tuned ones, or stage1 on full cat) are having the same issue.



Next actions
I already ordered a new engine from Toyota as off course waranty is voided anyway (they even had 5 of them on stock... strange for such a 'rare' car)
Once it arrives, that engine will go in the car and we will run a little less psi on it to be on the safe side.

In september/october, the current engine will be opened up and they start building it with upgraded pistons, rods,...
By then, we also hope that the transmission is cracked... to do some serious tuning in november/december.

P.S.: Since the beginnen I knew we would be blowing up the engine at some point, but not now. It was foreseen this winter, to test how much a standard block can handle on pump gas.


In the end, it sucks that the engine is blown up... not knowing why. In a couple of weeks I will be driving again in France and on the racetrack Dijon-Prenois. If all goes well, the car drives again by the end of next week.

Little frustrated as well, middle of the summer... but what can you do.


Really curious how many people/tuners had the same issue here. Or does it only appear on EU-spec cars...

To end... picture of here on the trailer :(
Tnk47Sy.jpg
 

Nathwraith

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Oh mate that is frustrating news. At least there is some level of diagnosis that’s happening. Will be interesting to see exactly what’s happened to it.
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Oh mate that is frustrating news. At least there is some level of diagnosis that’s happening. Will be interesting to see exactly what’s happened to it.
Thanks. One car in the UK is having the same problem (engine block is not opened up there either to check which component failed).
First guess now is the piston ring that broke. But to be sure, engine block needs to be pulled out and opened up. And finding the root cause, who knows... as the ECU is not showing any fault codes at all and I was not data logging on my phone during my drive (which is normal)

The engine aint that expensive as one for a GT-R, but again... money is money and it is still plenty :)
 

Q8_TwinTurbo

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Geert,

sorry to hear of the misfortune. Nonetheless, things could have been worst. All that really matters is that you are safe and sound.

Since you are putting in a new engine, once you disassemble the old engine and find out the damage assessment and the root cause. Let us know what you find.

Kindly document what choice of forged engine internal you will be going with ie. which pistons & rods choice ? Blueprinting and balancing the engine, cylinder head porting and polishing, valve springs, retainers, cams ?

I would highly recommend "WPC treatment" for the following parts;

-Piston skirts
-Piston wrist pins
-Main bearings
-Rod bearings
-Camshaft
-Valve springs & retainers
-Valve stems
-crankshaft

This will help reduce friction tremendously. It will help with engine rpm pick-up, engine oil temps etc.

I have done it on all the parts of 2JZ engine and the improvement was unbelievable.

check out the article and brochure at the website below.

http://www.wpctreatment.com/documents.htm


Good luck with the new engine, just ask the tuner to leave a safe margin. Don't let the power bug bite you LOL.

All the best.
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Geert,

sorry to hear of the misfortune. Nonetheless, things could have been worst. All that really matters is that you are safe and sound.

Since you are putting in a new engine, once you disassemble the old engine and find out the damage assessment and the root cause. Let us know what you find.

Kindly document what choice of forged engine internal you will be going with ie. which pistons & rods choice ? Blueprinting and balancing the engine, cylinder head porting and polishing, valve springs, retainers, cams ?

I would highly recommend "WPC treatment" for the following parts;

-Piston skirts
-Piston wrist pins
-Main bearings
-Rod bearings
-Camshaft
-Valve springs & retainers
-Valve stems
-crankshaft

This will help reduce friction tremendously. It will help with engine rpm pick-up, engine oil temps etc.

I have done it on all the parts of 2JZ engine and the improvement was unbelievable.

check out the article and brochure at the website below.

http://www.wpctreatment.com/documents.htm


Good luck with the new engine, just ask the tuner to leave a safe margin. Don't let the power bug bite you LOL.

All the best.
Thanks.

When we know the problem, I will surely let everybody know what it was :)
Same for which parts are going to be in the 'upgraded engine'.

Haha unfortunately the power bug already bit me 7 years ago :p
First priority is to have the supra back on the road and enjoy her for the rest of the summer season.

At least in the end... I will have a spare engine :rofl:
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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The new engine already arrived, damn that was really fast :)
It was ordered yesterday afternoon, arrived this morning.
4y4IEIH.jpg

z2nr7F1.jpg


If somebody want to know the price that I paid: around 7000 euro excluding taxes (Belgium has 21% taxes)

What was ordered (inlcuding part number):
* Long block B58 supra (19000-WAA02)
* Gasket intake B58 supra (17177-WAA01)
* Gasket turbo cyl head (17173-WAA02)

 

a90moe

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Very unfortunate to hear about the engine issue news.. Glad you have a replacement..

How much boost were you pushing?
 
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geert.bieseman

geert.bieseman

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Very unfortunate to hear about the engine issue news.. Glad you have a replacement..

How much boost were you pushing?
Not a lot, spikes till1.6 bar. And in the higher RPM range the ECU is restricting it currently to 1.2 bar
It occured during normal driving, so the boost was very low.

Also two other BMW engines (one B58 and one B48) since last month confirmed having the same problem with lost compression. Belgian BMW tuner, that developed my turbo for the Supra (those engine blocks also still need to be opened up)

They may already found what caused it, but have to be 100% sure. Can only be told when they open all the engine blocks, to see if its the same problem/cause. I am not going to get everyone panicking yet :)
 

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