Lightweight battery alternative

[razorlab]

The customer service sounds excellent, however curious if Bryan and Christian got theirs working.

I’ve been using mine this whole season, no issues.

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[BA9092]

I haven't installed mine yet. Hopefully today if I have time.

I did hook it up to the CTEK lithium specific charger which I purchased last week on Amazon and it did indicate only the first 2 LED lights meaning it had to go through some maintenance charging (1st photo). But after a few hours, it was fully charged (2nd photo).

I do know I'll have to code it in Bimmercode's Expert Mode (Front Electronic Module -> Battery Class, etc...) then register it in Bimmerlink before passing any judgement on it.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I haven't installed mine yet. Hopefully today if I have time.

I did hook it up to the CTEK lithium specific charger which I purchased last week on Amazon and it did indicate only the first 2 LED lights meaning it had to go through some maintenance charging (1st photo). But after a few hours, it was fully charged (2nd photo).

I do know I'll have to code it in Bimmercode's Expert Mode (Front Electronic Module -> Battery Class, etc...) then register it in Bimmerlink before passing any judgement on it.

Look forward to hear how it works out for you. Feeling much better that Bryan has been using his all year! If you get it done before this Friday, lemme know

 

[BA9092]

Ok, guys, I finally got it installed. Piece of cake, actually.

Removed the old one, including that little grey "umbilical" cord, lol, and reinstalled the new one. 10mm bolts for the terminals and top bracket and the 13mm bolt for the bottom left bracket.

I did purchase the CTEK lithium charger/tender before the battery, so I hooked it up to the engine bay terminals after installation to keep it charged up while I went through the Bimmercode and Bimmerlink coding.

Did the 3 quick presses of the ignition to put it in Diagnostic Mode, buckled the seatbelt and turned all accessories off.

I fired up Bimmercode first. Clicked on ECU (Engine Control Unit), changed the Battery Capacity from 105Ah (OEM) to 70Ah (closest setting since mine is 68Ah), changed the Battery Type from AGM (OEM) to Lithium-ion then hit CODE.

Then for Bimmerlink, I just clicked on the Battery icon and since the 70Ah capacity was already preloaded, I just selected the "Same capacity and type" option and completed the registration.

Car started right up with no hiccups! Even all my settings and presets were still all saved and recognized. The only thing that took about 5 minutes to catch up was the clock and the parking sensor system.

 

[i3igpete]

... you had the opportunity to use 69 Ah and you didn't take it?

 

[Blindspot]

Hey guys, I've read this thread and still have a question that's definitely been asked and answered previously but I can't seem to find it...

Do I need to have these Bummercode and Bonerlink apps on my phone and do anything with them after the installation? I'll have a shop install the battery and do the initial coding while the car is there for other stuff, but is there anything I'd need to do coding-wise down the road? I would rather drink my own piss than do anything computer-related on this car; any electronics that I touch usually stop working, so I know better

Thanks!

 

[baagel]

I would rather drink my own piss than do anything computer-related on this car

Well you answered your own question already. The apps are for individuals who actually want to do that kind of work on their own car. If you'd rather pay someone else to do it, there's no need to have the apps.

 

[Blindspot]

Well you answered your own question already. The apps are for individuals who actually want to do that kind of work on their own car. If you'd rather pay someone else to do it, there's no need to have the apps.

That's why I'm asking to make sure that I don't need to do anything with them after the battery has been installed, and that they're only for initial setup...? The "after" part isn't obvious.

 

[razorlab]

That's why I'm asking to make sure that I don't need to do anything with them after the battery has been installed, and that they're only for initial setup...? The "after" part isn't obvious.

If they program it correctly, no need for anything after the fact.

 

[Blindspot]

If they program it correctly, no need for anything after the fact.

Perfect, thanks for that!

 

[EddieNel]

Do I have to tell the computer that I’m running a lithium and not an agm?

 

[razorlab]

Do I have to tell the computer that I’m running a lithium and not an agm?

yes

 

[PikkaGTR]

Any one knows a vendor who has the 94R/H7 in stock
Seems online places are all sold out

 

[FLtrackdays]

I would rather drink my own piss than do anything computer-related on this car; any electronics that I touch usually stop working, so I know better

How did I miss that great comment before?!?

 

[FLtrackdays]

Got one for my Mazda MX5. Holy it was so damn easy to install. Just did it. Kept my battery tender on the terminals. Removed the heavy ass old one, put in the new light as a feather Power Tex one, hot damnnnnnn…. She fires up so fast now No programming needed with the old Mazda technology I suppose (and having the battery tender on).

From the website, looks like these batteries will last about 3x longer than the regular lead acid ones. Unfortunately, they don’t have them for every make a model.

Also, found some sites stating at 25 degrees Celsius (my home), my Supra Power Tex should be fine for up to 10 years . It won’t be that long but good to know while waiting for my OEM one to die. Wonder if the Supra will say when it’s getting low or if you just notice it on startup, like I did for this Mazda?

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